Thanks Walt for this thread and thanks to all who had input.
It's been very helpful for me sorting out my mount.
To avoid splashing and cut down on noise I wanted the mount as far aft as possible. It sits just in front of the rear hatch, leaving just enough clearance for the hatch lid to open.
This also gives good access for the internal fittings. Through hull fittings are mounted into M6 stainless channel nuts The channel nuts are a good fit in the gunwale and don't require holding with a spanner when tightening.
I used powder coated 50mm (2”) square section aluminium pool fence post as the main framework.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/protector-a ... p_p1140654To get the height I bolted 3 sections together using M6 stainless bolts. A section of poly cutting board makes a good base for the OB bracket.
The square section tube is secured to the hull on the port side with a 6mm wing bolt.
It's not visible but on the starboard side the tube has a slot cut into the base which sits on top of a stainless eye plate screwed into the gunwale. Tensioned with the turnbuckles there is no movement.
For bracing I used stainless turnbuckles attached to stainless M6 eyebolts screwed into the channel nuts.
Fixed with a wing bolt and turnbuckles, the mount can be easily undone and removed leaving only the eyebolts in place.
(Note that since taking this pic I have added an extra backup larger turnbuckle and M8 eyebolt, mounted just forward of the rod holder and in a straight line with the gunwale back to the tube. Though it was rock solid with the two turnbuckles I did notice the aft turnbuckle would loosen slightly at higher revs. A turnbuckle failure could be catastrophic and I wanted redundancy built in for safety)
Being so far aft, splashing from the engine onto the hull is minimal.
For sailing, the engine is raised and remains clear of the mainsheet.
I'm still running it in, but at 1/4 throttle have hit 12km/h.
This little 2.5 Suzuki is a great addition to the TI.
A micro motor, perfect for a micro yacht!