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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:55 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Greetings,

I've had my AI for about a month now, and am curious what others are doing with the paddle while sailing. I'd like some way to mount it on the akas parallel to the hull. Currently I'm sliding it under the bungee cords behind the seat, but it's not ideal. Thanks in advance~~~

Hayes Wyngarden
Ada, MI.

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Got out of town on a boat going to southern islands, sailing a reach before a following sea...


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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 8:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:21 pm
Posts: 2229
Location: Maui, Hawaii
I put one end of the paddle under one of the bungees of the front hatch and run the shaft against the outside cleat (on the forward aka). I use the heavy-duty paddle leash slid down to the far end of the paddle and the other end attached to the forward aka (next to the same cleat). I put a piece of string through the paddle leash's knot near the paddle end and tie a loop that I drop over the screw-in hook that the paddle bungee (on that side) would have hooked to. Even in heavy seas it does little more than a slight shift. This way it's available in 1-2 seconds if needed. Just pull the leash off the hook and slide the paddle to you, then center the leash.

A friend uses two ball bungees to attach across the akas on one side, but it would take a few seconds to take it off to use.

Kayaking Bob

P.S. Also I've attached a loop of strap to the knot on the other end of the paddle leash, and use it to keep the dagger board in place, when not in use. I just slip the dagger boards tip 2-4" into the loop and the other end sits at the edge of the cup holder. I ALWAYS clip the daggerboard bungee into the seats clip, because it floats like a brick!


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 Post subject: paddle placement
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 6:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 4:06 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Long Island, New York
check out this post on Kayak fishers

http://kfs.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/ ... 2401081173

I used it to mount the paddle on the left akas . Makes it instantly available. It works very well.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 8:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:55 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Longfellow-- thanks!! Just what I was looking for.

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Got out of town on a boat going to southern islands, sailing a reach before a following sea...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:57 am
Posts: 222
Location: Phuket, Thailand
I have only taken my AI out 6 times but stretching the paddle bungee over the shaft with the paddle blade pointing forward seems to work for me. It didnt look like it would, i admit! Monsoon season is upon us here and whereas the winds are not more than about 10-12 knots the swells have been overhead, easily enough to swipe any poorly secured items off the deck. What I have found is that the topside holes that receive the pin on front crossbar extensions (akas? why have we gone ethnic with this craft??) are egging slightly but this would have to happen over time in any kind of a sea as its where the elbow of the pin is bearing against it. Theres bound to be more movement on the front crossbars as they are not idependently braced.....Doesnt look like it goes down too deep, not worried. One thing for sure with this craft, given its length v's beam, the pins and the holes, flexibiliy of the material its built out of its going to loosen up a lot over time...no bad thing at all until you reach the weakest point which in this case one would hope is where the shear bolts are located!!!! Also a warning...I'm always congratulating myself on having remembered to raise the rudder, remove the mirage drive etc but have on 2 occasions pulled the boat up with the centerboard still in the well...OUCH!!!! Fortunately only over sand!


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 7:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 am
Posts: 419
Location: Florida
Quote:
What I have found is that the topside holes that receive the pin on front crossbar extensions (akas? why have we gone ethnic with this craft??) are egging slightly but this would have to happen over time in any kind of a sea as its where the elbow of the pin is bearing against it.


Phillip

My Aka hinge pin holes have worn quite a bit to the point that without shims they rattle very loudly. Once wear starts the up/down motion accelerates the problem - as with every rattle comes a little more wear.

Quick bandaid is to attach 2 1" self-stick heavy duty felt pads (like the ones you put on furniture) to the flat part of the aka arm. If you look at each arm behind where the pin inserts there is a 1/2" wide flat spot to stick on the felt pads. When placing the 2 1" pads leave a 1/4" gap between the 2 in the center - so as to not have the felt part rub against the machined hole in the center of the fixed aka frame.

Pads may need to be compressed some by tapping with a hammer or shaving off some excess material with a razor. End result should be a tight fitting aka arm and the pad removes all the play and makes the arms very quiet.

I replace pads about every 4th or 5th trip or as needed if I have been in a lot of chop. I carry extras in the gear bucket.

Yakaholic


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 Post subject: furniture pad fix
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 2:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 4:06 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Long Island, New York
I tried the pad trick hoping I might prevent wear before it becomes a problem, but with the pads on the flat 1/2 post, even shaved, I found it very, very difficult to insert the pin all the way through easily. I guess I just have to wait for the wear and then use the fix. Thanks for the tip though, Yak. I'll carry some for the eventuality.


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 Post subject: Re: furniture pad fix
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 am
Posts: 419
Location: Florida
Longfellow wrote:
I tried the pad trick hoping I might prevent wear before it becomes a problem, but with the pads on the flat 1/2 post, even shaved, I found it very, very difficult to insert the pin all the way through easily. I guess I just have to wait for the wear and then use the fix. Thanks for the tip though, Yak. I'll carry some for the eventuality.


Correct, new hinge might not need that much padding. I started with carpet as padding but as wear increased needed something thicker - hence the felt pads. Finding something the right thickness and yet "crushable" is the key.

Here was my old solution: Carpet & Plastic auto body panel pins - which need to have their head thickness shaved some


Image

Image

Image

I don't mean here to imply that the aka arms are not funtional "as is". Just that any kind of padding stops the play you have from making an annoying rattle & scaring fish, ect. Reducing any play or rattle I can only see as a good thing to reduce wear and keep the ama held out tighter to the water.

One could also experiment with rubber feet or pieces of bike tire. The 2 holes could also be tapped to enable using a stanless screw to hold on any padding.


Yakaholic


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 4:50 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:57 am
Posts: 222
Location: Phuket, Thailand
Thanks for the tip Yakaholic, but surely if you put a pad on the inside of the 'inboard' crossbar your just going to press the pin against the outside edge of the hole on your attached crossbar causing more wear? What suprises me is that hobie didnt put replacable nylon/teflon bushings into these holes in the first place.

Also I have found that my mast isnt really engaging well the plate doesnt seem stiff enough, any suggestions. Whats going to happen if I capsize, the only things keeping the mast from dropping off and sinking will be the mainsheet and furling line!!!

The rudder was starting to kick up quite a lot in only 10-15 knots of wind, shortening sail helped but its still an issue.

I love the boat and admire the inovative ideas behind it so I am a happy owner I would just like some more tips as to how to overcome some of these problems

Many thanks

Philip


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 2:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 am
Posts: 419
Location: Florida
Philip1el wrote:
Thanks for the tip Yakaholic, but surely if you put a pad on the inside of the 'inboard' crossbar your just going to press the pin against the outside edge of the hole on your attached crossbar causing more wear? What suprises me is that hobie didnt put replacable nylon/teflon bushings into these holes in the first place. Philip


Without the padding the pin play makes too much noise. Originally, when new, there was little play and no need for padding. Constant up/down created wear and the padding is just a band-aid to reduce what now would be excessive play if I didn't use padding.

Philip1el wrote:
Also I have found that my mast isnt really engaging well the plate doesnt seem stiff enough, any suggestions. Whats going to happen if I capsize, the only things keeping the mast from dropping off and sinking will be the mainsheet and furling line!!!
Philip


Hobie has a replacement mast spring tab if yours is a very early model. It has more "spring" to it. If, after placing in the mast, you can just pull mast out of the cup it is set up incorrectly. The mast spring tab must keep mast from coming out - even if you have to hand bend the tab each time.

Philip1el wrote:
The rudder was starting to kick up quite a lot in only 10-15 knots of wind, shortening sail helped but its still an issue.
Philip


I'm using the balanced rudder mod & that helps alot. Check the drum tension it might need a little tightening, Be careful though because when over tight raising & loweing rudder is harder to do. If you are not worried about shallow water use the rudder lockdown screw.

Philip1el wrote:
I love the boat and admire the inovative ideas behind it so I am a happy owner I would just like some more tips as to how to overcome some of these problems

Many thanks

Philip


Island is one amazing craft, but yes it could use some minor improvements. Hobie will have a balanced rudder very soon and is supposed to change/fix the T&S lockdown/popup issue this fall.

Yakaholic


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 4:48 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
"Also I have found that my mast isnt really engaging well the plate doesnt seem stiff enough, any suggestions. Whats going to happen if I capsize, the only things keeping the mast from dropping off and sinking will be the mainsheet and furling line!!! "


Your mast cup might need adjustment, the 2 turnbuckles adjust the height. Mine got out of wack and the mast stopped catching.

gwiz


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