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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 10:14 am 
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Location: KY Lake
When sailing, I find it awkward to uncleat the line to the sail. I have to raise my arm pretty high. Then, I have to keep my arm high to keep it uncleated. My shorter friend in another AI is finding it even more awkward. Has anyone moved the cam cleat somewhere else to make the whole thing more comfortable?

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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 10:27 am 
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Hobie sells Harken wedges (#H297 $4.50us) that I successfully used to change the angle required to lock and unlock my reef line on my first TI. Maybe that will help? (See http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=27537)

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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 10:48 am 
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Location: KY Lake
KB- I can see why you all changed the reefing line cam cleat, especially for a TI. For the mainsheet, I need the cam cleat lower than the cross bar. Along the top of the gunnel, just forward of the mesh pocket would be my 1st choice but it's busy with UP lines.

1 hour later, after discussing your post. Yes, the Harken wedge will work if we reverse the wedge for our mainsheet cam cleat. That way, we're pulling down to cleat, and straight back to uncleat. Now we need to pay attn to the length of those screws. Thanks for your help as always!. :D :D :D

(BTW, the spray skirt is working great! I have to install it on the new red AI. I'm leaving all the hardware for it on the papaya AI I'll be selling as soon as I figure out how to post pics on this forum-agh!)

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Last edited by sailhoky on Sun May 26, 2013 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 11:48 am 
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Location: High Point, NC
I took it off entirely. Put a standard deck cleat on the gunwale back near my seat. I can cleat the line if I want to, but normally I keep it in my hand.


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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 12:02 pm 
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Tom, yes I saw in some others posts that you had done that but I find it a bit tiring to grip the main sheet all the time. It's always in my hand, just not gripped. And if I need to uncleat in a hurry, I want the cam cleat, not a regular cleat. (BTW, I follow your mods on the forum- very enlightening.)

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SailHo Kentucky
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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 5:10 pm 
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Here's the instructions to post pictures on the forum. Good luck.
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=12574

Glad you enjoy the Sprayskirt as much as I do. :)

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Last edited by KayakingBob on Mon May 27, 2013 9:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 4:04 am 
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Location: KY Lake
KB, it's early in the AM, perhaps I missed the instructions. Help again?

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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:54 am 
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It's right there ... now :oops: :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 12:19 pm 
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Location: KY Lake
KB, did you have to drill new holes when you added the Harken wedge to your furling line cam cleat?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 2:41 pm 
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sailhoky wrote:
KB, did you have to drill new holes when you added the Harken wedge to your furling line cam cleat?

Nope, but test out inserting/removing the aka on that side as too long of a screw will interfere with that. Also, you may need longer screws, but mine worked fine.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 3:41 pm 
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KB, thanks. When I put the screw through the top of the cam cleat and then down thru the wedge, the angle changes on the screw so I can't drop the screw straight down thru the base and then into the aka brace. What am I doing wrong?

BTW, I sold my AI before I could even gets pics posted to forum. Thx for the link to the pic posting instructions though! :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 7:25 pm 
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sailhoky wrote:
KB, thanks. When I put the screw through the top of the cam cleat and then down thru the wedge, the angle changes on the screw so I can't drop the screw straight down thru the base and then into the aka brace. What am I doing wrong?

Try the smaller wedge, and try flipping the wedge over. I don't remember having (or hearing others having) that problem. You only want to change the angle a little bit.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 10:23 pm 
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Hoky, I tried that too and it would have required me tapping it at a new angle (or better yet, making new holes) so I abandoned the wedge and we went with Harken's extreme angle fairlead and longer screws instead. Just another way to approach this,..

Bob is correct, the threads can not stick into the channel below.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 11:25 pm 
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@NOHUHU,

That's the sort of fairlead I need for my furling-line relocation! :-)

Although I'll probably go with the 476 fairlead, which will fit the existing #471 cam cleat.

Did you use the existing wedge under the fairlead?

Cheers,

Mike.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 11:51 pm 
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Don't recall, Mike. I think so, but you'll figure it out when you get the kit.

That is the original cam cleat in my pict. You just need to buy the fairlead and longer SS screws, grind them to fit and use loctite.

Tension the cleat properly before making the final measurement. Every thread counts!


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