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Simple Double Bungee Method http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=49980 |
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Author: | stringy [ Tue Dec 03, 2013 2:46 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Very clever! |
Author: | Chekika [ Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:02 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Like! Keith |
Author: | NOHUHU [ Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Thanks Steve! |
Author: | tonystott [ Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:53 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Top stuff! double the holding power and double redundancy - a perfect combination! |
Author: | Slaughter [ Tue Dec 03, 2013 6:44 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
I was just about to think up that idea. So simple. What's next Steve ? |
Author: | Terry [ Tue Dec 03, 2013 8:10 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Very nice! |
Author: | coachstevo [ Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:24 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Brilliant! |
Author: | Deepbluesilence [ Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:16 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Awesome idea! Suggestion tho.....double bungee in my mind is for added tension and as a failsafe....my double bungees hook to two different top hat rivets front and rear. This way there is double the tension yet if one of my rivets breaks the ama still will not release.....i would add a loop of bungee to your ss ring as both a handle to hook the ring with as well as an option to loop around another top hat rivet -Jeff |
Author: | tsquared [ Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
I have to pick up some pad eyes that I ordered and then I'm going to do the double bungee system too. T2 |
Author: | tonystott [ Wed Jan 08, 2014 11:54 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Crazy Yak wrote: Slaughter wrote: What's next Steve ? Was thinking about a backup rudder systems but after some on the water contemplation I've decided it's not necessary. The rudder pins are no problem to replace on the water, and using stainless steel hitch pins as opposed to the stock rings helps make the process quicker. Also, one you practice a while, steering with your paddle becomes quite easy. Grrrr! SNIP There is no reason to add ANY sort of retainer to the replacement rudder pin, as the up and down lines plus gravity will keep it in place. Can you advise how you change your rudder pin out on the water. Do you lie on your stomach along the hull, or do you jump overboard and change it from in the water? (AI or TI). Sorry for all the questions. Also steering with the paddle might be okay in open water with practice, but I would never dare try it crossing my local bar and entering the channel, which can have current flowing at up to nine knots. I have also filed out the holes on my spare aka brace pins, so I can simply fit a 2mm zip-tie through, rather than fiddling around with a split ring. |
Author: | dougc405 [ Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:07 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
I don't use rings on the rudder pin, especially after trying to remove one while the boat was in the water. It can't go anywhere, anyway. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk |
Author: | ChangeMan [ Sun Feb 09, 2014 7:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
Back on the subject of double bungee. I went with the existing bungs as I couldn't get to the Hobie Dealer to buy 4 saddle type bungs, but could get to to the hardware store. I bought 4 316 stainless shackles and a 5m coil of 5mm bungee. I had some stainless steel tie wire from a previous job, bought at the boating shop. I found if I elongated the hole in the existing screw in plug, with a round file, by 1mm it allowed me to get the two ends of a piece of bungee into the hole. I needed to use a screw driver to push it through and made sure that section of the bungee was cut off after tying a knot. There is enough room in and slightly under the plug for two knots. To ensure the shackles don't undo, I wrapped the tie wire through the bolt hole and around the shackle. After twisting the two ends together, I pushed the twisted wire into the hole so I don't catch it with my fingers. On my TI the holes for the plugs are blanked off at the bottom so water entry isn't a problem. Now if I accidentally bury the ama I feel more confident it will stay attached. Here is the result. Brian in South Australia. |
Author: | Crazy Yak [ Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:27 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Simple Double Bungee Method |
tonystott wrote: Crazy Yak wrote: Slaughter wrote: What's next Steve ? Was thinking about a backup rudder systems but after some on the water contemplation I've decided it's not necessary. The rudder pins are no problem to replace on the water, and using stainless steel hitch pins as opposed to the stock rings helps make the process quicker. Also, one you practice a while, steering with your paddle becomes quite easy. Grrrr! SNIP There is no reason to add ANY sort of retainer to the replacement rudder pin, as the up and down lines plus gravity will keep it in place. Can you advise how you change your rudder pin out on the water. Do you lie on your stomach along the hull, or do you jump overboard and change it from in the water? (AI or TI). Sorry for all the questions. Also steering with the paddle might be okay in open water with practice, but I would never dare try it crossing my local bar and entering the channel, which can have current flowing at up to nine knots. I have also filed out the holes on my spare aka brace pins, so I can simply fit a 2mm zip-tie through, rather than fiddling around with a split ring. Gracefully crawl to the stern and get the job done, you will probably need to do some gear rearranging first. The pin can wait for shore as already mentioned. That's a great idea on the spark aka brace pins, will do the same -- thanks! |
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