2015 AI, Gusty Conditions?

Has anybody sailed their 2015 in conditions like this: https://picasaweb.google.com/1081497986 ... 5741696290

I was going to give it a try today, but thought better of it:

My reservation was around the gusts and what happens when the AI is sailing along on all 6 meters of sail in a lull and gets hammered by one of those 20-25 mph gusts.

_________________
2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]

Can be fun! I'd feel it for a few days afterward though.

When gusty like that, I try holding the sheet-line uncleated, using my arm as a shock absorber to smooth out the gusts.

Just be sure to sail to windward, so if it gets to be too much, you have a downwinder to return to safety.

_________________

Hobie Island Sailing since 2006

I have tried that, but kept getting cleated in unless I held my hand unnaturally high - seems like the cleat needs to be angled a few degrees down instead of being flat so that the sheet can be worked in-and-out without cleating unless the operator exerts some downward force on it while pulling.

I also find it quite difficult to un-cleat when there is a lot of pressure on the sail - and that's something that should be doable any time with just a quick yank on the sheet.

Slanted slightly downward was how I had it set up on my outrigger canoe and it worked well: uncleated was the default and cleating required an explicit movement...... Un-cleating was just a matter of pulling on the sheet, making it pop up out of the cams as it formed a straight line to my hand........ But I am reluctant to drill any more holes in the Xbar that are not in line with the existing holes....seems like every hole would weaken it.

All that being said... I don't see a mainsheet cleat mod in the list at http://www.kayakingbob.com/hobie-ai so either there is one and I'm not seeing it or I am doing something wrong with my sheeting technique.

_________________
2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]

Those are the conditions I most often sail in. I never cleat the sheet (well, almost never) and am always prepared to sheet out (or in) depending on what I need to do at any given moment.

One thing I did to both my AI and TI was to remove the camcleat for the mainsheet. I found it a bother and possibly a cause for mishap. I installed a standard Horn Cleat beside the seat and while sailing I can simply throw one-half loop of sheet around it to take pressure off my hand/arm on a long cruise. But I can just as easily flip it off again. It's right there at my side - no need to lift and pull on something located up front. One of the better mods I've made to my boats.

go for it , don't put down the sheet

_________________
-Chris

Thst segues into my next question: how about upping the mainsheet's mechanical advantage to 3:1 ?

_________________
2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]

I did that on my first TI. Lots of extra sheet line in the way while sailing. But try it, only takes a couple of minutes to change.

_________________

Hobie Island Sailing since 2006

If you don't have the strength to pull it, then go for 3 to 1. But if you can handle the sheet load, don't. You have to give up one thing to get another. Moving to a 3 to 1 system means you'll have to move the sheet further, in either direction, so it's slower and can be critical in high wind situations. On the other hand, you do gain a mechanical advantage in terms of your ability to pull the sheet or resist it pulling on you. Something you'll just have to try and see how it suits you.

The problem with releasing the sail in strong winds on the AI 2 (2015 AI) has to do with the relative location of the cleat on the cross bar--it is at a bad position relative to the cheek block a few inches below and forward. There are a couple ways to remedy this. I have presented mine--and I love it--on my AI 2 mod post here http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=7276&start=750

I simply moved the cleat from the crossbar back about 13" along the coaming. You need to raise it up 1.5" or so to avoid rapping your knuckles when you cleat the line. It works great in strong winds.

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon

In high winds these boats can be quite a handful. In my case I have physical limitations (a bad back) so I don't go out much if the winds are over 7-8 mph. The boat seems to be able to withstand way more than me the driver. It's piece of mind to me though if I'm five miles off shore and weather all of a sudden hits me with a little skill I can survive it (definately wouldn't want to be out in that with my old sunfish). The coolest aspect of these boats is the furlable mainsail. This allows you to be able to sail in most any conditions. I tend to start furling my main in around 12 mph winds and up. With the sail furled in you are not likely to capsize, and in higher winds I think I can go faster with it furled in a few turns than I could with it all the way out. The more experienced you get the more you will use furling. What I do is watch my AMA's if they are going underwater, I furl in trying to balance the boat for the conditions, if your getting severe weatherhelm typically you are showing too much sail.
Hope this helps
FE

Something, somewhere is throwing a 404 on that image.

_________________
2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]

Totally agree with Fusioneng on the brilliant ability to furl the sheet especially in gusty situations. You can then establish the conditions and slowly gove more and more sail as you feel more comfortable.

I was out in Force7-8 with really heavy gusts. Without a furled sail the mast would have probably snapped...


Relocating the mainsheet cleat is on my list too. very good point on having it slighty angled I will look into that for sure. I also had a few moments where a quick jerk just wounldn't release the cleat and in dodgy situation you dont want that to happen.

As to your original question: GO FOR IT! with a furled sail to start with...

_________________
_________________________________________________________
2015 Adventure Island
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-PHLN ... EKefepPXQ/
Blog: http://www.irishrockpoolaquarium.com

I have a some what related question. When sailing a TI is it normal for the mast to bow/bend or is this an indication that its past time to furl an turn or two. Seems it would be a good idea to start with the sail partly furled in winds over 15mph. If the lee ama is under water more than out as the manual states, furl the sail. Having said that I keep seeing comments such as some above and videos with folks out in 25+ mph winds with no problems.
Thanks

So far, my experience on my AI has been that once the sustained wind gets somewhere over 20 mph the boat sails better and faster with about one mast rotation's worth of reef in the sail.....

Looking at wind graphs after-the-fact, I come away thinking that 20+ and full sail coincide with the lee ama submarine-ing...which is my here-and-now indicator hat it's time to reef.

On your TI, with another 2 meters of sail but the same ama volume (?), I would guess it's time to reef at some lesser wind speed..... so maybe 15 is it.

_________________
2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]