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 Post subject: Inflatable Hatch Seal
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:40 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:04 pm
Posts: 617
Location: Hawaii, Big Island
Elsewhere I expounded on this idea for reducing water entry.
You would use something like a hand held bulb to do the actual inflation ala Nike shoes.

I found some mfgs on the web There seem to be many and I have not evaluated any of these. Some you may have to register for. Take a look. Do you think any of these technologies could be adapted to existing hatches? Many accommodate circles and rectangles.

Or would a new hatch have to be designed? If so, certainly circle hatches could be fit to replace existing ones.

Here's an opportunity for Hobie to be first in class, and stop the leak stuff- IMHO.

Matt what say your engineers ?


Edited by administrator: A representative from Seal Master contacted us asking that we remove the link to to their website. It's not clear why the link was causing a problem, but I removed it. See SealMaster dot com for the products referenced in the original version of the post.

http://www.pneuma-seal.com/ [Registration required]

Many others at:


http://www.thomasnet.com/products/infla ... 405-1.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 5:55 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Interesting enough!

I will certainly forward to the engineers.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:41 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:39 pm
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Location: Venice, Florida
:D Thanks for your post AD.

Chekika has been the Lone Ranger on this. I don't blame Matt for not giving hatch leaks a higher priority if it only involves a few of us. But, while others have reported leak problems, we (Keith & I) felt little or nothing would be done until people like you, and your Hawaii buddies report similar problems. WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY COUNTS FOR A LOT MORE THAN 2 CENTS--and like all your others posts, is very much appreciated.

Thanks!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:26 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 am
Posts: 428
Location: Florida
AlohaDan has some good points.

What makes a good seal is compressing the "O" ring. You don't get that with the current T&S hatch - especially if the "O" ring twists.

Pumping up the seal is on way.

Another is a threaded hatch with a screw on top and an "O" ring would seal just fine.

Have you ever seen a swimming pool pump with the plastic screen/leaf trap filter built onto the front of it? That uses a threaded plastic cover and "O" ring. It is under considerable water pressure but does not leak.

A catch cord with a swivel can be added to the top/cover to keep from losing it once you unscrewed the hatch. It would also have the advantage of have the top totally out of the way of the hatch to make it more accesable.

The old Outback (pre-2004?) had a threaded hatch - beneath the seat of all places - but it didn't have any "O" ring.

I imaging a similar hatch, with an "O" ring, an attachment loop, and recessed "T" handle to make it easy to tighten or loosen would be just the ticket.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:10 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Hatch wants:
Captive and one handed operation.

Absolutely do NOT want:
Threads or loose hatch lids.

The Twist-n-Seal o-ring does seal in the cylinder even when twisted. The hatch lid does not need to be flat to seal. That is accepted in the design. The sealing problem is debris and that is a problem with all hatches.

Compressed o-ring designs have many of their own problems. It is VERY difficult to get an even compression on the o-ring. Again... the beauty of the Twist-n-Seal is that the o-ring seats in the cylinder not against a flat.

All o-rings need to be kept clean.

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Last edited by mmiller on Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:14 pm 
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Quote:
The old Outback (pre-2004?) had a threaded hatch - beneath the seat of all places - but it didn't have any "O" ring.


That was a standard screw in lid hatch... yes it did have an O-ring. I believe it was for steering system access and covered a vent hole in the mold.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 am
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Location: Florida
Matt I'm not sure we are talking about the same screw in hatch. Mine is a 5" Viking Hatch and if it had an "O" ring it doesn't have one now. :?:

If the scew lid has a swivel & a leash it would be captive. Use a good handle to allow it to scew or uncsrew w/ 1 hand.
Just brainstorming. :)

Truth be known I have never had any issues on any of my Hobie hatchs. Not on the original Sports with the non-captive hatchs, nor the old Outback and not even on the Islands.

Ya, the T&S seal twists but like you say it still is water tight (mostly anyway). My wife's Island can see multiple outings and gets no water. Mine only gets a little water - ~1 cup (after fixing several hull issues), and I'm not even sure thats from the T&S hatchs. I just don't bother cleaning or fussing with the T&S "O" ring. Spoiled by the older style hatches I guess. I do have to keep re-gluing the large neopreme gasket on the front hatch -but that is no big deal.

Lets put it this way. I would never spend the money to purchase a replacement hatch for the T&S on my Islands. They work well enough for me.

However, brainstorming is good and Hobie equipment always seems to evolve over the years.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:07 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
The problem with screw in hatches is the threads. They get bunged up and jam due to sand and wear. Sometimes you just can't even get them open.

That viking hatch did have an o-ring at some point! Its sits in the ring.

I certainly agree... all the input gathered in these forums has been really helpful to Hobie, its users and newer product improvements. Thanks to everyone for that!

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