Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:36 am Posts: 827 Location: Gippsland Lakes Victoria Australia
I am also wondering whether the Thule Hullavator (new model) would assist with car topping. There's a video demonstration midway down the page on this site. I would be interested in your thoughts if you get a chance to watch it. http://www.orsracksdirect.com/thule-897 ... -rack.html
I have my doubts. Notice you must free lift the entire boat up to chest height to mount it on the Hullavator. It appears the entire boat load will be supported on one side of your car rack, at least temporarily -- make sure it can handle the load. The gas pistons only provide 40 lb of lift assist. I couldn't find a maximum kayak weight listed anywhere. The TI may be heavier than what they had in mind.
At least maybe you should call Thule (toll free) and ask them about these matters.
I certainly had my doubts it would work - but was curious to hear what you had to say about it. From your earlier review, I expect I will be able to load it with the aid of my side extension bar http://www.rackandroll.net.au/. But will need to get the additional Heavy Load Support accessory http://www.rackandroll.net.au/leg.html However, given the significant additional weight of the TI hull, I expect flipping it over wil be pretty tuff I am still planning on carrying it on a trailer most of the time.
Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2010 7:22 pm Posts: 16 Location: Woy Woy Australia
Great report RR I agree that the 897XT does not look strong enough to work well with a tandem oasis or an AI It would be interesting to see a video of one lifting a tandem hobie on to a Land Rover Discovery I have a ladder roller on the rear bar of the aforesaid Disco the idea you have given me is to fit a cheap cart to the rear of the yak to pivot and aid the initial lifting and lowering of the bow on to the rear rack Thanks
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:45 am Posts: 24 Location: Japan
Why I made it: I designed and planned to make a carrier that allowed me to crank the boat to the top of the car sliding it up a slope on the side of the car. However, when I did a basic test of that design, I realized that the torque needed to pull up the weight of the boat and overcome the friction was too much for my design. Having already made the unit to fit over the racks on the car, I sought out plan 'B'. I had seen bars that attached to the rack to provide a point to place the front of the boat so that it didn't hit the side of the car. Using lumber I had in the garage, I made a similar contraption which stays on the car during boating season. You will see that it is anything but fancy. It is a poor man's easy haul solution.
On the top carrier the wooden pieces are glued and screwed on. The side piece with the flip up protector is a simple design, attached as you see it and saved me over $100.
Results: In short, it works great for me. I am almost 65, and don't work out, but I can use if fairly easily. Also, I am not an engineer, but my guess is that tying the four points of the rack together significantly strengthens the holding power, helpful especially in the event of a sudden stop, quick turn...
See the YouTube video starting at about 7:45 to watch the process of putting the boat on the car.
How I use it: The process: - Insert cart poles in the back cart holes of the Tandem Island. - When I lift the front, the back tends to hit the ground, so I put a piece of tile carpet in the approximate spot the back will hit the ground, unless I am on a sandy surface. I hope make a piece that attaches to the boat to simplify things. - Flip up the front piece of the side rack to keep the boat from sliding off to the front. - Lift the front of the boat on to the side rack, then lift the back of the boat, sliding it forward before rotating it to straighten it on the car. - Place the sail next to the boat, on the side with the side piece. - Set the amas next to the boat. - Put the rope through the elastic on the amas on the handles on the boat on the front rack. - Put rope over the amas and boat (now with the rope in front of the ball that the back aka stabilizers attach to. (Just for a little more protection from a sudden stop. And I didn't do it when filming the video. - Tie the front and back of the boat to the tow loop on the car. - Lower the rudder, double check to make sure nothing is loose in the boat. - Drive off.
Trailers may be easier, but here in Japan it it much more of a pain. Inspections, limited parking... make it less of a desirable option.
Enjoying a 2012 TI w/ hakas, a stainless steel mast topper, furling jib & hakas