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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 7:34 pm 
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We have a club starting up on Oahu for kayak sailors. We had a couple TIs go out this weekend along with an AI. One of the TIs was out at sea and their rudder disconnected from the hull because both of the screws that attach the rudder mechanism to the hull loosened to the point where they just disconnected. After they got back to shore to fix the issue, the other TI owner checked their rudder housing bolts and they were loose too.

The AI also had a grey rudder pin break on him, although it could have been from use and not being replaced recently.

Just a heads up, please make sure your TI rudder screws/bolts are tight. Should we put loctite on these?

JG


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:27 pm 
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I use Loctite on everything that is expected to stay in place. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:20 am 
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Location: Saint Johns, Florida
Took my TI into the shop to have the rudder adjusted because of stearing problems and they found about a 2 inch section of the spectra line that was almost worn totally through. Boat has less than 20 hours use on it.

TI owners better check the stearing lines when they check the bolts.

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Jerry D.
St. Johns, Florida
2010 TI
2008 AI


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:52 am 
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Location: Point Lookout, Maryland
We're finding the same thing and check the following each time before going out now:

- Check all external rudder lines in the rear of the TI
- Make sure there are no obstructions to the internal rudder lines
- Check all the screws related to the rudder
- Confirm the rear drain plugs are all screwed in and secure
- Check all the trampoline buckles
- Check the mast base plate screws
- Check the big mast turnbuckles inside the bow hatch

We've found out the hard way that *we* are really pushing our TI hard and have to be very proactive about maintenance items.

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Mitch
    2010 Tandem Island
    2010 Revolution
    Chesapeake Bay and Eastern Shore
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 2:56 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
I'll put those on the AI preflight checklist as well.

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"THE WIND IS YOUR FRIEND,.."


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:15 pm 
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
JG,

Thanks for the heads up. I haven't been checking the screws used to mount the rudder assembly to the hull.

c2y


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 8:28 pm 
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What are the mast turnbuckles?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 8:40 pm 
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
Quote:
What are the mast turnbuckles?


JG,

It's part of the mast support assembly connecting the front aka to the bottom of the hull. A turnbuckle system is used to allow for adjustments.

c2y


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 8:59 pm 
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AKA the "V-Frame"

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"THE WIND IS YOUR FRIEND,.."


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:11 pm 
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whosyerbob wrote:
We're finding the same thing and check the following each time before going out now:

- Check all external rudder lines in the rear of the TI
- Make sure there are no obstructions to the internal rudder lines
- Check all the screws related to the rudder
- Confirm the rear drain plugs are all screwed in and secure
- Check all the trampoline buckles
- Check the mast base plate screws
- Check the big mast turnbuckles inside the bow hatch

We've found out the hard way that *we* are really pushing our TI hard and have to be very proactive about maintenance items.

Thanks for that. I think is is a great idea to have a check list to go my. I will use this and maybe add some more items to check.

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Paul, Rebecca & Stephanie


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:39 am 
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Also check the fraying of the down line if you have one of the TIs with a rudder that doesn't stay down in windy conditions. Most of us with this problem (unless we have a kludged solution) keep the rudder down with high tension on the down line. When pulled taut like that, the fraying occurs at the point on the line where it enters the rudder mechanism since that is where it is forced against the plastic edge as you stretch the line further when turning from left to right. You don't want that line to break when it is windy or you'll lose your steering with no other way to keep rudder down.

Since the right steering line is the line that causes the further stretching of the down line, you might want to check anywhere it touches a hard surface inside the boat though I haven't done that yet myself so don't know if it is an issue. Though the tension on the right steering line is only about 1/4 of the down line due to the lower leverage ratio, it moves much more under tension so more potential for abrasion.

As described in other posts, some of us have kludged ways to keep the rudder down so no longer need down line tension and therefore have eliminated the worst fraying risk, though damage may already have been done before the temporary fix.

Bob


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:40 pm 
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Location: South Florida (Coral Springs)
Speaking of checking lines for fraying and such. Here's a new way I found to loose steering control in my TI today.
Notice the left steering line has completely come apart inside the drum.
Image

My dealer was very responsive and helpful replacing this line. He guessed that on the opposite side of the drum from what is shown in the picture, that when the line came back through there appeared to be a sharp edge that could have caused this.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 2:44 am 
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Another source of tension on the steering lines and abrasion contacts is the routing of the steering line tubes which are supported on either side of the rear hull access hatch. One of my tubes was unhitched and traveled down the middle of the opening. It wasn't clear which side underneath it was supposed to go. If left it loose then the steering was sloppy with too much play.

I improvised a rubber band strap that put enough tension to take out the play but also act as an anti-tensioner to the steering when excess down line rudder tension is used for the rudder problem boats. I would like to find the manual that shows where the lines are supposed to go. Any info would be appreciated.

Bob


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