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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 11:34 pm 
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Location: Victoria, Australia
WoW, Once again Roadrunner. That stuff certainly hangs on hangs on.
How quick does it set?
and
Whats the best way to apply it? it looked an absolute mess and knight mare to apply to the first support shown.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 11:49 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
fusioneng wrote:
Matt:
I have seen alot of feed back on this post and some good solutions to re-enforcing the scupper holes. My day job is a plastics engineer and mold maker, and I am very familier with rotomolding and insert/overmolding (a leading expert in the field of plastics and insert/overmolding). The solution below uses injection molded sleeve inserts (should be under $1.00 each in production volumes for the sleeves). The solution below can be used on your existing molds with no modification to the molds themselves, and should never leak. ,..Hope this helps
Bob


Really nice, Bob. Would this nylon insert be made in the exact same inside diameter as the existing holes?

How much stronger is it than the current PE tube?

Would it ever separate due to heat, stress and flexation of the hull?

_________________
"THE WIND IS YOUR FRIEND,.."


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 11:55 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
RoadRunner. Awesome Brah!

Please tell us more about the drive well plugs. A perfect sailing accessory for the TI and AI!

_________________
"THE WIND IS YOUR FRIEND,.."


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 12:01 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Roadrunner,
What Nohuhu said! 8)
Though not just for sailing. Should make a difference when paddling as well.
Looks brilliant. (another one of your mods Hobie should take note of :roll: )
I'm guessing the drivewell surge is eliminated?
Noticed a speed increase at all?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 12:26 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 2407
Location: Escondido
ELM wrote:
How quick does it set?
and
Whats the best way to apply it? it looked an absolute mess and knight mare to apply to the first support shown.
Here are some tips I posted a couple of years ago for using the 3M products on cam columns, but the 3030 is essentially the same -- I like them both equally:
Quote:
For the reinforcement I used two applications. The first is 3M ScotchWeld DP 8010 and the second is almost the same but with a filler added -- DP 8010NS. 3M can tell you who sells it in your area. Each package runs about $20. It has a 6 month shelf life -- check the date on your product.

Tips on using it:

This is a 10:1 mixing ratio. You don't need the expensive special dispenser or mixer they might try to sell you. Get two different diameter dowels to use as plungers. Pre-mark the dowels to dispense about 1/2 batch at a time. Mix well with a stick.
Image

Prep: medium sand the columns and the base around the columns. Clean everything with alcohol and let it dry.

You'll have about 5 minutes working time (they say 10 -- don't believe it). Have everything figured out and prepped before mixing. Concentrate on one column at a time, one column per batch, applied with double latex gloved fingers from the center hatch. Apply by feel but keep a mirror to inspect your work. Be in a ventilated or open area. Do a practice run before mixing.

Repeat the process on the other side with your next batch.

I did a second application with the NS version to add structure after the first application has cured.

I tried some pre-cut mesh for additional structure but made a mess of it and abandoned the idea. Didn't end up needing it anyway.

I hoped for a year's service out of this. So far it's been over 2, well over 1000 miles and it shows no sign of failing. This boat does boat wake sprints that probably tore the cam columns apart in the first place. Amazing stuff! Let me know if you have any questions. 8)
The first time I used this product it cooked off before I could finish the application. If possible, it's best to do the job in stages, mixing small batches. I only used the NS version for the cam columns where I needed to create some structure.

IMO, they're both amazing products, though not the easiest to use. Loctite makes a second similar product called 3300, but I have not tried or tested it. These products can be found at some of the industrial suppliers. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:37 am 
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NOHUHU and stringy, thanks for the comments. As to speed, I'm a big fan of streamlining and think it makes a difference. I normally prefer the tape-over -- not as elegant, but no seams. But on the Oasis I need access to the well for boat handling out of the water so I wanted something that would be almost as good and easily removable.

Although this is not a watertight fit, I didn't notice any surge -- no room for a lot of water movement!

The material came from a scrap hull of the same color (not mine!). I made a template from paper and chalk and cut it slightly oversize so I could get a snug fit by filing. Here's one that could be used by sizing it up to 12 1/16" (or whatever your exact drivewell length is):Image

Remember the plug has to be able to extract through the hull, so there has to be enough clearance that it doesn't get stuck! Each drivewell is slightly unique, so this was fitted for this particular well (although it looked perfectly usable in the other well also).

A black drivewell plug is put into position. It doesn't matter if it's off center, as the pieces will be in place when glued so the combination fit will be correct. If the plug is a little short, you can make spacers (I used more scrap PE) to bring the PE portion of the plug right up to flush with the hull bottom.
Image

A good snug fit will automatically limit fore and aft pivot of the piece, or you can build up the front and rear shoulders of the black plug (marine epoxy seems to work there) to keep it from pivoting in the C&G. Here's another view of the finished installation:
Image
8)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 3:04 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Thanks for that Roadrunner. Great stuff! 8)
Deserves its own subject in the ideas/mods forum rather than buried in this post. :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 5:24 am 
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Location: Victoria, Australia
Roadrunner wrote:
NOHUHU and stringy, thanks for the comments. As to speed, I'm a big fan of streamlining and think it makes a difference. I normally prefer the tape-over -- not as elegant, but no seams. But on the Oasis I need access to the well for boat handling out of the water so I wanted something that would be almost as good and easily removable.

Although this is not a watertight fit, I didn't notice any surge -- no room for a lot of water movement!

The material came from a scrap hull of the same color (not mine!). I made a template from paper and chalk and cut it slightly oversize so I could get a snug fit by filing. Here's one that could be used by sizing it up to 12 1/16" (or whatever your exact drivewell length is):Image

Remember the plug has to be able to extract through the hull, so there has to be enough clearance that it doesn't get stuck! Each drivewell is slightly unique, so this was fitted for this particular well (although it looked perfectly usable in the other well also).

A black drivewell plug is put into position. It doesn't matter if it's off center, as the pieces will be in place when glued so the combination fit will be correct. If the plug is a little short, you can make spacers (I used more scrap PE) to bring the PE portion of the plug right up to flush with the hull bottom.
Image

A good snug fit will automatically limit fore and aft pivot of the piece, or you can build up the front and rear shoulders of the black plug (marine epoxy seems to work there) to keep it from pivoting in the C&G. Here's another view of the finished installation:
Image
8)

Makes my half arsed attempts using silicone and cling wrap or foil pathetic. Excellent work Roadrunner and agree with stringy, deserves its own thread so as not to be buried. Some very helpful information also, thanks again.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 8:35 am
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Location: newquay, cornwall, uk
thats it, i stand corrected.

many thanks stringy and ELM. appreciate the photos and explanations roadrunner, seems like my idea might 'stick'!

regards
tw


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