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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:23 pm 
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So, the TI that my wife ordered for me in September should be one with the flotation?

I haven't seen it yet, it's still awaiting customs clearance.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:53 pm 
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Gringo wrote:
So, the TI that my wife ordered for me in September should be one with the flotation?

I haven't seen it yet, it's still awaiting customs clearance.

The only flotation it has is the hull integrity Gringo, no holes in it and it is fine.

To save yourself from the same mistake, walk the whole TI with the wheels in, out into "minimum" knee deep water and then slide the wheels out, same when you come in. If the water is not deep enough, do not lift the TI and hope they will fall out, instead return back to the beach with the wheel fitted correctly, turn the TI on it's side to remove the wheel and then roll the hull back down onto the sand and pull it into the water.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:36 pm 
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Gringo wrote:
So, the TI that my wife ordered for me in September should be one with the flotation?

I haven't seen it yet, it's still awaiting customs clearance.


If it's a 2011 yes. If not... it is pretty easy to add. The internal flotation we add is similar to a pool noodle material, but long blocks. I believe 4 are in a TI.

This is simple reserve flotation in case of a hull being flooded... which can happen from a variety of issues including an open hatch of course. We started with flotation for boats sold in Europe due to certification issues there. Weight of the hulls is a sales issue between manufacturers, but we felt that safety should come first and made the change here as well.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:46 pm 
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ELM wrote:
To save yourself from the same mistake, walk the whole TI with the wheels in, out into "minimum" knee deep water and then slide the wheels out, same when you come in. If the water is not deep enough, do not lift the TI and hope they will fall out, instead return back to the beach with the wheel fitted correctly, turn the TI on it's side to remove the wheel and then roll the hull back down onto the sand and pull it into the water.

Sage advice! In the light of this incident, it should be issued by Hobie with every TI sold IMHO.

Though if the wheels got stuck on the bottom, as Flaneur describes, it may not be possible to wheel the boat back out of the water either. I guess, with the wisdom of hindsight, since he had a friend present, they both should have applied themselves to lifting the bow high enough for the cart to fall right out.

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Last edited by chrisj on Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:17 pm 
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mmiller wrote:
If it's a 2011 yes. If not... it is pretty easy to add. The internal flotation we add is similar to a pool noodle material, but long blocks. I believe 4 are in a TI.

This is simple reserve flotation in case of a hull being flooded... which can happen from a variety of issues including an open hatch of course. We started with flotation for boats sold in Europe due to certification issues there. Weight of the hulls is a sales issue between manufacturers, but we felt that safety should come first and made the change here as well.


Matt,

When you get a chance, can you give us the blocks demensions and where they are placed. I would'nt mind installing a few in my pre-2011 TI. The amas provide some piece of mind from sinking. But I've been frequently going OC-1 with a single ama so extra "assurance" bouyancy within the hull would be good.

Aloha,

cliffs2yak


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:36 pm 
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The material we use is 4" x 5" and 100" long (8.4') is used for a TI. Engineers say it is cut into manageable lengths and stuffed in tight spaces out of the way. No more specific. Now... with differing shapes of available "Pool Noodles" you would have to estimate the area of that material to match.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 6:59 pm 
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Matt,

Thanks! Sounds like 2 - 3 standard size pool noodles should be about equivalent.

Aloha,

cliffs2yak


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:44 am 
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mmiller wrote:
Varies by model as to where, but up in the rail areas I believe. Serial numbers for 2011 production ends in 011. Started building 2011s in August I believe.

So the Ivory Dune TI that I ordered in Nov this year which has just arrived (in Aust) should be a 2011 model? But to be sure, its serial numbers should end in 011, right?

My TI arrived at the dealership last week and I'm about to pick it up on Friday. Can't wait.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:47 am 
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cliffs2yak wrote:
Matt,

Thanks! Sounds like 2 - 3 standard size pool noodles should be about equivalent.

If you want a really big noodle:
Image

Gladon Big boss noodles are 4"x61" and said to float 300lbs each. You can buy connectors as shown.

Now if you can just keep them from jamming up your rudder lines,..

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 3:36 am 
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I was looking for inflation bladders to modify for a custom/diy side mount, scuba diving, buoyancy device when I came across these. My very first thought was to fit a few in the AI with a pull cord attached. Not sure if they could be developed or would withstand the harsh salty enviroment ?

Play the flash demo video for a look at how they work, also come in several different sizes.

http://www.mtigroup.com.au/productlisting/mining-products/gas-bags-inflatable-plugs/blastbag-solo-plugs.aspx


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 4:32 am 
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so.....is the maximum capacity of the TI reduced by the weight of the floatation"

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 9:39 am 
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Gringo wrote:
so.....is the maximum capacity of the TI reduced by the weight of the floatation"


Gringo, I wouldn't think so. I'd guess the foam probably weighs less than a pound or so.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 11:43 am 
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NOHUHU wrote:
Gladon Big boss noodles are 4"x61" and said to float 300lbs each. You can buy connectors as shown.

Now if you can just keep them from jamming up your rudder lines,..


Nohuhu,

I was thinking for installing a pool noodle forward of all the rudder controls. Stuffing them as close to the top of the rails as possible. Then installing sections of pool noodles around the scupper tubes and under the center of the storage well. Note, in preparation for a Pohoiki - Hilo Bay 30 mile run next year.

cheers!

cliffs2yak


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 3:10 pm 
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Couldn't hurt. Though my understanding is, that to be effective, your hull would have to be nearly full of water, so that the waterline contacts the noodles and they contact the top of the hull.

In other words, there is no floatation provided when a hull is only 1/2 full of water.

So it's only good for displacing "some water" in a full breach/worst case scenario. That could easily occur by combining an open hatch with a surf zone. Or a scupper breach. :(

In 30+ mile open-water expedition mode, I would seriously consider the floatbag option, which in my mind would displace a larger volume of water and do it more quickly. When you do manage to land safely, the boat will also be lighter and relatively easier to handle.

My only question would be: what sized bags could be added through the aft portal to float the rear of the boat? The AI wants to submerge that end first.

Until I figured that out, I would stuff as many mega noodles in there as possible.

Malama your Pono out there, Bro!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 4:37 pm 
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Nohuhu,

Agree. The pool noodles mounted towards the top of the TI wouldn’t become effective until it comes into contact with water. But, mounting the pool noodles on the bottom of the hull could result ( I’m assuming) in a top heavy TI putting added stress on the akas and/or making the TI more susceptible to a huli. I suspect Hobie is installing foam in the recesses nearest the top to provide added buoyancy after the TI’s hull is filled completely with water. It’ll help keep the TI on the surface to aide in an assisted rescue; but, it would be near impossible for a self rescue in rough conditions.

Looks like the float bag is a better option since it would displace more water for its dimensions/weight. But it seems intricate to install or deploy near the rudder controls. On the other hand, pool noodles can be easily sectioned and placed in compartments away from any control lines. So the solution might be a combination of both for those longer runs.

Running the bildge pump while in rough conditions example: AlohaDan and Kelly (Plenty Pupule Sports) completed the 30 mile crossing of the Alenuihaha Channel. Dan reported having to stop occasionally to bilge water out from their AI's hulls. I can only imagine how difficult that must've been while being slapped around by 6'+ seas.

A`ole pilikia,

Cliffs2yak


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