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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:36 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:45 pm
Posts: 217
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hi Stringy,

That's great feedback - looks like the Sika 291 should do the trick!

It does seem to be pretty resilient stuff and the inside of the knuckle 'socket'
provides a very decent amount of surface area to securely fix the aka
in place.

Cheers,

Mike.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 5:13 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:53 am
Posts: 299
Location: Palm City, Florida
Mike,
Glad to hear it's all working out. I didn't know 5200 wasn't available in your area. Time and usage will tell how well the Sika holds up, so please keep us posted in the future.

There's more than one school of thought on the matter and we're all interested in learning what works best. The important part as Jim stated, is keeping the rivets from moving and as dry (protected from salt/water) as possible.

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Ezra Appel
Palm City, Florida
2014 Tandem Island


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 1:01 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:45 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I've attached the second aka back into the knuckle joint using Sika 291i only. It's had just over 24 hours to cure and it's already rock-solid.

I've clamped the AKA and tried to twist, pull and flex the knuckle and I didn't see any movement at all of the joint between the two. Unless the Sika undergoes some sort of catastrophic chemical breakdown I can't see how I'd ever get it apart again!

I'll probably put the rivets back in anyway, but it looks solid enough to sail without them.

Cheers,

Mike.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 12:40 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:45 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I joined the remaining three AKAS/knuckle-joints with Sika 291i sealant and left the rivets
out. Did a 25km trip last week (fairly calm conditions) and all went well. Post-trip inspection
showed zero-movement in the joins.

Out again tomorrow in more trying conditions, probably another 20kms at least.

The only difference I noticed was a peculiar noise, which took me a while to pinpoint. A
strange 'tubular' popping sound, seemingly happening at random. It turned out to be the
waves lapping against the underside of the AMAS, which funnelled the sound up the inside
of the AKAS and out of the open rivet holes!

Mike.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:45 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
3.5 months later and 6 or 7 trips out and the joints are still holding fine with just the Sika 291i and no rivets.

No movement between the joint and the AKA bar and no visible signs of deterioration of the sealant.

Mike.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 2:17 am 
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Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 5:06 am
Posts: 1553
Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
Hi Mike. I just got a new set of Akas as a warranty deal with Hobie due to corrosion. As soon as I got the new ones I questioned the rivets. They were stainless ??? I thought the new design was to have aluminium rivets with Sikaflex in the joint. Well apparently not. I don't know if there is any Sikaflex, or similar, in the joint but I have been assured that the latest design is back to stainless steel rivets.

I would say ( only guessing ) that in the manufacturing process in making the Akas, the original design was to paint, assemble, drill, rivet. The new process is probably to drill, paint, assemble, rivet. So that paint becomes the barrier between the stainless rivet and the aluminium knuckle and tube.

I suppose I could drill out a rivet, just to ease my mind. Or, better still, I could put it out there on the forum and wait for somebody else to do it :lol:

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Don't take life too seriously................it ain't permanent.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 5:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 1195
Location: sarasota,fl
With all the corrosion problems I have had on my older TI's ( mostly SS rivets in aluminum). When I bought my new TI in 2012 before doing anything I sprayed Krylon clear coat on all the metal parts, and soaked all the rivets with clear coat. Now it's over a year later, and everything still looks very nice with no visible corrosion and the clear coat kind of helps keep the aka's and metal parts from scratching. After putting my registration stickers on the hull, I clear coated over them, they seem much more durable now, and don't peel off over time.
Just thought I would share my observations.
Bob


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