I'll try to help. Sounds like a 2010. Hobie puts slashes through the zero's. Should still come with the Hobie 2 year warranty. Hopefully it was well taken care of, and you got a great deal on it.
Thanks for the quick response
It's actually brand new; I got it in the boxes, so it's in great shape. And, I'm pretty sure you are right about it being a 2010. The 2011's have the twist and lock seat mounts (mine does not), right?
Are there any changes from 2011 to present that can and should be made ? I know I've read about V-brace clunking that seems to be, at least in part, related to the mounting bolt at the bottom. I see Hobie sells a new improved bolt there, is that worth replacing in advance?
The tiller handles are tied together in the hull with a line. If the line is a little too long you could disconnect one end and add a single knot to "eat" some line. if it's too short, that could be a problem.
So, if I understand correctly, there is a line between the two tillers which, if shortened or lengthened, could synchronize the direction of the two tillers?
On the rudder turning, you can adjust the lines at the rudder by loosening the bolts and tightening the lines to even the steering. Pick what you consider strait on a tiller handle then adjust the rudder to be strait.
I tried this is, and unfortunately after the 3 or 4 stab at it, the lock nut stripped out the molded rudder hole (honestly, counting on a plastic part to hold a nut is a weak design since I gather these cables need periodic adjustment). I guess I'm going to get some longer SS bolts, nuts and some large washers to bypass the molded nut holding feature.
If the turning one side verses the other is still off, you'll need to look inside to see if something is catching, or causing resistance to full motion.
I think I do need to check out the lines inside, as there is some springy resistance the last inch or two when the rudder turns to the right. Maybe a knot is catching on another line
I always check and tighten everything on a new boat, except the cleat screws.
Also, check how much water you take in the hull over a 3-4 hour sail in choppy conditions (water over the hatches often), and do a leak test if you get more that a few cups. (I use vacuum cleaner exhaust into the larger drain hole, using soapy water all over to look for bubbles).
Right now, I'm working on how to get it to, and into, the water as I don't have a trailer or a suitable cart. I went to the water (but not in) yesterday after I found that my old canoe trailer did not work well as a temporary cart (poor planning; I put everything on the roof of my Suburban before I thought to check the cart
BTW, Your spray skirts are on my to-do/to-buy list; I'm sure my wife & daughters (aka, front seat passengers) will appreciate them.
Thanks for all the help. I can't wait to actually use my TI.