I absolutely agree with your statement; but what I did worked.
Kman, you are correct. It does. We just swapped out the new crossbars on the TI3 and I was forced to re-calibrate my thinking about V
The 2011 hull was having furling issues (common on TI's) due to the lack of clearance between the mast and the bearing plate. The ring was sitting on the plate. It required adding 3/8-1/2" of stainless washers around base pin to raise the mast enough to achieve clearance.
During the install, we noticed that the factory adjusted V
was pushing out the bottom of the hull, creating an obvious hump. We loosened everything to neutral (no Vbrace pressure exerted on the hull) and found there was still was a tight fit for the mast. Expanding the brace
only made things worse. What was required was compression
After about 5 negative quarter-turns the hull squeezed into shape, slightly pulling the hull bottom and mast cup upwards. This FINALLY allowed the mast to rest/rotate freely on the pin. This is the only way I can see to effectively RAISE the mast other than shimming the pin.
After our adjustment, the bearing plate clearance was perfect. We even allowed for some mast bending (the lever effect).
So my feelings at this point are:
1. Hulls do vary, so don't take Hobies, or my advice as gold. Check it and do it yourself, if adjustment is needed.
2. If you over-extend the turnbuckles, you will run the danger of deforming the hull and cracking it at the V
3. If the mast/furling ring are allowed to constantly contact the bearing plate, this could lead to furling rings coming loose, cracks in the crossbar welds and those crossbar/mast failures which look so catastrophic.
4. If you over-compress, you could potentially pull the brass V
anchors out of the hull.