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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 5:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2015 8:53 am
Posts: 303
Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
I finally got the part about tying the ends of the mainsheet and furling line together - and it does help.

Also started hooking the loop at the end of the mainsheet over the centerboard control knob... which also helps - giving quick/consistant access to either the furling line or the mainsheet (at least to the bitter ends).

Tried relocating the furling line's Harken block to the outside left of the Xbar so that the furling line was on the left and the mainsheet was on the right; but didn't think to untie the ends of the lines and it created a situation conducive to entanglement...... Next time out, I will try it without tying the ends of the lines together.

Question #1: Has anybody developed more tricks to enhance management of these two lines?

Question #2: How much more line thickness on the mainsheet could I use without clogging up the blocks.? ..... I'm thinking that thicker line would be more hand-friendly and have more authority when snapping the line to uncleat..... and having the new line red instead of black might help when sorting things out visually....

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2015 AI in Grey (oops, "Dune"...)
66" Yakima Rack-n-Roll Trailer
(no cradles, hull stored upside-down)


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2013 1:26 am
Posts: 121
Location: Brisbane Australia
PeteCress wrote:

Question #1: Has anybody developed more tricks to enhance management of these two lines?

Question #2: How much more line thickness on the mainsheet could I use without clogging up the blocks.? ..... I'm thinking that thicker line would be more hand-friendly and have more authority when snapping the line to uncleat..... and having the new line red instead of black might help when sorting things out visually....


Moving the control lines closer to you make it much easier to manage the lines, and also keeps the furling line away from the mirage drive. You will need slightly longer sheet and furling lines. I always tie the 2 lines together, so you never need to lean forward to reach the furling line. As far as a thicker mainsheet, my suggestion is to wear good quality sailing gloves.
See my mod post for more information. viewtopic.php?f=69&t=54432

Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:49 pm
Posts: 248
Location: Bethany, OK
I haven't had any real issues with the cleats, of course I've never used anything else either...

The only "management" issue I have is the big pile of line all over my legs and in my lap!

One thing I've learned, be sure the pedal drive bungie is somewhere out of the way! Every time I forget that blasted hook snags into the line. Usually at a most inopportune moment...

And if the lines don't snag that hook, they're wrapping themselves around my ankle!

But I don't want to just let them drag in the water... Though that keeps them out of my way! (That is one handy use for tramps, when I have them on I can just pile the excess line on the right side and they can't fall in the water.)

Oh yes... The VERY FIRST thing I learned... Keep a knot in both ends of the main! :lol:



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2015 8:53 am
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Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
PeteCress wrote:
How much more line thickness on the mainsheet could I use without clogging up the blocks.?
I just went from 31' of the 1/4" line that came with the boat to 35' of 5/16th line.

The 5/16ths line works OK in those 22mm micro-blocks and is noticeably easier on the hands.... not a lot easier, but noticeably .... They didn't have the red I wanted, so I got a sort of bright turquoise blue - which helps me because it's easier to identify when several lines/bungees are in my field of vision.

Anything larger than 5/16ths does not work with the micro-blocks. I looked into Bullet Blocks, but the screw mounting spacings were different and drilling more holes in the hull was a deal breaker for me - as was the money....

_________________
2015 AI in Grey (oops, "Dune"...)
66" Yakima Rack-n-Roll Trailer
(no cradles, hull stored upside-down)


Last edited by PeteCress on Fri Nov 13, 2015 4:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:39 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Cleveland, Ohio & Lake Erie
I was interested in this new arrangement for moving the mainsheet and furling line cleats aft.
I saw the Harken Laser base and cleats were mounted on a Yakattack plate.
The question came up as to whether a backing plate or backing washers were necessary for the Yakattack plate.
Was any backing plate installed? Was it necessary?
Is it possible to reach under the deck to install backing plates here?
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 1999
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Since I have motors I always have to be careful with all lines (tangling in the props). I have never had my boat out without the tramps on. On big reason is line management. As soon as I unfurl the main, I always stuff the end of the sheet line under my cooler on the right tramp, and let all the lines pile up on the tramps (I have a lot of lines because of all my different sails). Just sain thats what I do with my lines.
FE


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 1:54 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2013 1:26 am
Posts: 121
Location: Brisbane Australia
Chicken of the sea wrote:
I was interested in this new arrangement for moving the mainsheet and furling line cleats aft.
I saw the Harken Laser base and cleats were mounted on a Yakattack plate.
The question came up as to whether a backing plate or backing washers were necessary for the Yakattack plate.
Was any backing plate installed? Was it necessary?
Is it possible to reach under the deck to install backing plates here?
Thanks.


I did not add backing plates for the Yakattack rails. There are so many screws on each, that there is no need for backing plates. Also due to the fact that it is all lateral force on the rails. I have used the same setup for a number of years, quite often in very windy conditions (25-30 knots). Very strong setup as is.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 11:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:27 am
Posts: 61
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Hogman wrote:
PeteCress wrote:

Question #1: Has anybody developed more tricks to enhance management of these two lines?

Question #2: How much more line thickness on the mainsheet could I use without clogging up the blocks.? ..... I'm thinking that thicker line would be more hand-friendly and have more authority when snapping the line to uncleat..... and having the new line red instead of black might help when sorting things out visually....


Moving the control lines closer to you make it much easier to manage the lines, and also keeps the furling line away from the mirage drive. You will need slightly longer sheet and furling lines. I always tie the 2 lines together, so you never need to lean forward to reach the furling line. As far as a thicker mainsheet, my suggestion is to wear good quality sailing gloves.
See my mod post for more information. viewtopic.php?f=69&t=54432

Image
Image


+1 for this mod. I did this on my 2012 AI and it's one of the best things I did. No more lines getting tangled in the mirage drive, and cleaning and uncleating is easier due to the cleats being closer to you.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:39 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Cleveland, Ohio & Lake Erie
One more question: I noticed you made a white-ish plastic plate shaped just like the Laser base plate and placed it between the Yakattack bracket and the Laser base plate. Why did you do this?
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 1:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2013 1:26 am
Posts: 121
Location: Brisbane Australia
Chicken of the sea wrote:
One more question: I noticed you made a white-ish plastic plate shaped just like the Laser base plate and placed it between the Yakattack bracket and the Laser base plate. Why did you do this?
Thanks.


The plate is aluminium. I put it there to add strength. Because it's not mounted on a flat service, I didn't want the Laser to flex.


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