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 Post subject: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 12:57 pm
Posts: 201
Location: Delaware Coast
I just visited their site to order an anchor and see that the red model is now available in the US.

Has anyone tried this model with a TI? I would also like to know if they will fit thru the T-n-S hatch (guess I want to know if the blue one will fit also in case that is what I end up getting).

Thanks


UPDATE:

2.5 months later:

I used the red anchor for about a month total. It held quite good but not perfect. The main problem I have with it is that even when connected straight to a rope without any snap, it was getting a grip around two out of three tries.

I have used the blue anchor for about a month and a half. It has got a grip and held perfectly every time I have used it. I never wanted an anchor, but the day of my OP, my stake out pole came out while I was retrieving the trailer - it turned into a very bad day! I still use my stake out pole but lay the anchor next to the boat for a backup incase that scenario every plays out again.


Last edited by Herbaldew on Mon Aug 11, 2014 1:57 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2222
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Both anchors will fit through a twist n stow hatch though the larger anchor will require a bit of rotating while sliding to get it in and out of the way.


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:27 am 
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Location: Delaware Coast
I bought the small red model. It worked fine the first time I used it in mild conditions.

I tried it this weekend in sustained 20 mph wind and 2.5 ft waves and didn't have the same luck. First off, I had a shackle on the anchor and a spring hook on the end of my anchor rope. This is a no no especially with the small model. It only weighs 230g and the shackle/snap weighs 80g. Hooked straight to the anchor that weight tends to pull it over on its side preventing it from digging in properly. Using a section of rope tied directly to the anchor before adding a shackle, snap or chain will alleviate this problem (Kinda like the instructions say to do, doh :oops: ).

Even after it got a grip this weekend, it let me creep along and broke loose altogether once (maybe due to the above configuration it never got a good grip?). After discussing it with Jon Cooper @ Cooper Anchors, given the weight of the loaded TI and the amount of surface it presents to the wind and wave to be pushed on, I am trading this anchor in for the blue 1 Kg model. I read somewhere that the red had been recommended for a TI but the red is intended for a canoe or kayak - the blue for PWC. A loaded TI is much closer to a PWC in weight and has a lot more surface to be pushed on by wind and wave so the blue is probably the correct choice unless you are just going to use it in mild conditions.

Kudos to Cooper Anchor for their outstanding customer support :D


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
It depends a lot on the density of the sand. In some areas even the blue cooper won't hold.
If I can shove a stakeout pole in about a metre I know the anchors won't hold. In this post
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=51246
I could only shove the pole in about a foot. The red cooper stopped the TI dead in about 10 knots of breeze and in testing with the drive in backwards I could not drag it.
But as I (and Tony) mentioned in the above post it is crucial not to weight the anchor with a shackle ...just use rope (and not floating rope either!) and make sure you have enough scope.
I agree that the blue cooper is a better choice for the TI and yet I find I use the red more often. All depends on what your usage is.


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:07 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:27 am
Posts: 48
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Hi All,

I bought a Cooper blue anchor for my AI about a year and a half ago. For storing is I bought a rope tidy bag from Burke Marine, http://www.burkemarine.com.au/product.php?prod_id=46 and a couple of bungee ball ties. In this bag I can easily fit 50m of 6mm rope and 3m of 6mm chain. I've found that it fits perfectly in front of the mirage drive, without interfering with the pedals, and the bungee ties go around the front aka cross bar to secure it. So no opening hatches. photos attached.
To get the anchor to and from the bow I used a ring at the bow a jammer at the cockpit, and rope with a clip. The last photo, kind of shows the arrangement
Image
Image
Image
Image


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:01 am 
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Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 7:20 am
Posts: 78
Location: Bulgaria
Here is mine setup:
Blue Cooper Anchor and Divers Reel with 80M Line

Image
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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
Posts: 1695
Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Johnny, you have connected the chain to the anchor in such a way that the performance of the anchor will be compromised. The design of these plastic anchors relies on the concentration of the lead weight inside it, to allow the point of the anchor to bury into sand. The additional weight of chain lying along the top of the anchor like that will cause the anchor to lie on its side, rather than digging into the seabed. If you look at the diagram from Cooper's own website posted elsewhere in this thread, you will see that Cooper does not connect chain directly to the anchor, for this reason.

Also, the only time the anchor line should be connected to that hole near the head of the anchor, and secured at the tail by a zip-tie, is if you are specifically using the anchor in reef areas, where the abundance of snags on the bottom may require "tripping" the anchor by breaking the zip-tie. In all other conditions, I have found the anchor easy to trip just by pedalling over it (or even upwind a bit), and giving it a sharp tug. I initially had it set up with a zip tie like yours, but security of the anchoring then becomes a juggle between the potential for needing to break the zip tie to retrieve the anchor and it breaking by itself under strong pressure from wind and/or tide. I would never leave my TI unattended lying at anchor where a zip tie was used, for this reason.

They are great anchors though, and being plastic makes them ideal for our Islands.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM"


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 133
Location: Austin Texas
I purchased a blue Cooper anchor for my TI after reading the posts about it, but have a couple of questions about rigging. I'm not planning to use the cable tie attachment method at the anchor even though my primary use is an inland lake that has many submerged stumps and other junk. I'm thinking I would rather lose the anchor than the boat and it will primarily be for anchoring while camping or stopping for lunch on shore. I mainly need to use an anchor and shore line to keep the boat from banging into the rocky shore due to boat wakes or wind.
I'm planning to tie 10 ft. of 3/8" rope to the anchor's main eye, then shackle 6 ft. of 1/4" chain to that, followed by about 75 Ft. of 3/8" or smaller anchor rope. I'm leaning towards 3/8" because it will be easy to tie and untie knots in.

Should I use three strand anchor line or is woven or braided line a better choice ?

Are marine shackles just tightened with a wrench or do I also need to run a safety wire or cable tie through the hole in the screw and around the shackle so that it can't back out ?

Thanks

Chris


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 12:57 pm
Posts: 201
Location: Delaware Coast
Not saying this is the right way, it's against the rules but is how I ended up using my anchor and it has worked perfectly every time ... also, I have never anchored in water over 7 feet deep.

I have a 42" section of 1/8" Dyneema connected to the anchor via a spliced loop to keep as much weight away from the shank as possible. On the other end is a SS quick link. I have a 30 foot section of 3\16 Dyneema with spliced loops on each end that I carry with me for general use. I use this line to connect to the quick link and the boat when I want to anchor. As I said, I know it's not proper but it is simple, has worked perfectly and no chain to deal with.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
Posts: 1695
Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Buckaroo wrote:
I purchased a blue Cooper anchor for my TI after reading the posts about it, but have a couple of questions about rigging. I'm not planning to use the cable tie attachment method at the anchor even though my primary use is an inland lake that has many submerged stumps and other junk. I'm thinking I would rather lose the anchor than the boat and it will primarily be for anchoring while camping or stopping for lunch on shore. I mainly need to use an anchor and shore line to keep the boat from banging into the rocky shore due to boat wakes or wind.
I'm planning to tie 10 ft. of 3/8" rope to the anchor's main eye, then shackle 6 ft. of 1/4" chain to that, followed by about 75 Ft. of 3/8" or smaller anchor rope. I'm leaning towards 3/8" because it will be easy to tie and untie knots in.

Should I use three strand anchor line or is woven or braided line a better choice ?

Are marine shackles just tightened with a wrench or do I also need to run a safety wire or cable tie through the hole in the screw and around the shackle so that it can't back out ?

Thanks

Chris
Chris,
I have a very similar set-up to you, and believe that that chain out a bit from the anchor will be the duck's guts! I then have three different anchor ropes; 10 metres permanently tied off on the front crossbar and feeding through a shackle on the bow fitting, a 25 metre coil, and a 50 metre coil. Should be enough! Obviously I only use the combination suitable for the particular circmstances.

Tightening up a marine shackle with a wrench is highly likely to be just fine. Obviously a different situation if you were planning to leave your TI on anchor for weeks etc...

_________________
Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM"


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 133
Location: Austin Texas
Thanks Tony, I was hoping you would chime in on this. And Herbaldew, I hadn't thought of using SST quicklinks despite seeing them on my trailer every day. Appreciate the replies.
- Chris


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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:51 am
Posts: 182
Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
Get rid of those god awful cable ties and buy one of these https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BYuUksj0L3c

You can buy them http://www.breakaway-australia.com/apps ... ow/5543320 pm me if outside of Australia :D

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Every day is an Adventure Island day


Last edited by Roller on Wed Feb 25, 2015 9:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:51 am
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Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
tonystott wrote:

A bottom lso, the only time the anchor line should be connected to that hole near the head of the anchor, and secured at the tail by a zip-tie, is if you are specifically using the anchor in reef areas,


Even in supposed sandy seabed you can potentially loose an anchor to rocks or submerged debris. No way would I ever rig an anchor without a trip system. The potential loss is to expensive

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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 9:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:51 am
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Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
Herbaldew wrote:
Not saying this is the right way, it's against the rules but is how I ended up using my anchor and it has worked perfectly every time ... also, I have never anchored in water over 7 feet deep.

I have a 42" section of 1/8" Dyneema connected to the anchor via a spliced loop to keep as much weight away from the shank as possible. On the other end is a SS quick link. I have a 30 foot section of 3\16 Dyneema with spliced loops on each end that I carry with me for general use. I use this line to connect to the quick link and the boat when I want to anchor. As I said, I know it's not proper but it is simple, has worked perfectly and no chain to deal with.

Image


For the majority of boaters anything but the weakest of currents an anchor system without at least 2m of chain will be utterly useless. In the UK I fished in some fairly strong current and was forced to use 4m of chain on my AI and a 1.5kg anchor, even with this sometimes I never held bottom. I guess your currents must be very weak?

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 Post subject: Re: Cooper Anchors
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 12:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
Posts: 1695
Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Roller wrote:
tonystott wrote:

A bottom lso, the only time the anchor line should be connected to that hole near the head of the anchor, and secured at the tail by a zip-tie, is if you are specifically using the anchor in reef areas,


Even in supposed sandy seabed you can potentially loose an anchor to rocks or submerged debris. No way would I ever rig an anchor without a trip system. The potential loss is to expensive

A marginal call when the trip system (as you linked to) costs almost the same as the anchor. The cooper anchor is so small, I have never had any issue retrieving it by lifting it from directly above.

_________________
Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM"


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