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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 11:27 am 
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July 4th weekend sailing in good wind caused my Tandem Island mast base holding screw to shear off flush to hull nub so no way to back it out. Has anyone else been able to extract the bronze screw mount from the bottom of the hull without causing a leak? Any other ideas? It seems too cramped to drill a pilot hole and use a screw extractor to remove the sheared screw and it looks like there may be loctite as I see hints of red on edges of both both screw and bronze base.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:31 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
My suggestion... don't even consider making a repair yourself, but take it immediately to your nearest dealer. This is what warranty is for.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM"
www.scenefromabove.com.au


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 1:10 pm 
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Tony,

I have a 2010 TI so the warranty has expired. In 2011 the TI mast problem was diagnosed and solved with a stronger screw that would not shear as easily - well within my warranty period. However, I was not notified by Hobie or my dealer that the problem even existed or I would have immediately got the new redesigned screw whether under warranty or not - it costs about $5.

I found out about it after the original weak screw broke and I went to the forum to see if others had the same problem and many did though none reported it shearing flush.

Hobie should notify us about dangerous problems so we get them fixed before sailing miles from shore with no way to get back since this problem cannot be fixed on the water. Now I have the cost of experts trying to extract a flush sheared screw or if not possible - perhaps needing to get a new hull - all because we didn't know about the weak $5 screw threat.

I sent in photos to my local dealer and he said he would send it on to Hobie. It is windy today but no way to sail until we can get the screw out or come up with another solution. Perhaps someone on this forum will have a solution since the dealer didn't know what to do.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:05 pm 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
I have broken quite a few of those studs and they typically break flush like yours did. The good news is the broken piece is usually not tight in the brass threads. I was able to work a couple out with a sharp center punch and a tiny hammer. Basically you punch a mark off center then tap it around in a circle to get the stud out. On another I had to put a cutting disk on my dremel and cut a screw driver slot in the top. I only had 1 that I had to drill, I used a left handed drill bit and was able to work it out with that.
Hope this helps
Bob


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:57 pm 
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
OK all you knowledgeable guys, for the rest of us, should we be replacing the screw?
If so, which one is it?
How do we identify if we have the stronger screw?
If Tom has covered this in his bullet proofing, can we have a link?

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Tandem Island -
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 8:19 pm 
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Location: Delaware Coast
I replaced mine as a preventative measure.

The old screw needed an allen wrench.

The new screw has a straight slot for a standard screwdriver.

Part #88991215 Set Screw, TI Mast V Brace


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 8:38 pm 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
ChangeMan:
If you have the older stud (the one with an allen wrench socket) and have not broken it yet, I certainly wouldn't bother, it's not likely it will break if it has not broke by now. I only broke mine because I used to push my boat way too hard (not so much anymore, haven't broken any in a couple years now).
Bob


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:43 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
ChangeMan,
Here are some links for this problem:
viewtopic.php?f=75&t=36284
viewtopic.php?f=75&t=46626&p=204692


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:37 am 
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Thanks, Stringy for the links. Lots of ways to try to take the screw out but not always successful. It sounds like all TI's made since April 2011 have the new stronger screw but mine was purchased June 2010. My TI is at the Hobie dealer now and they will try to get the sheared screw out. Not clear what will happen if unsuccessful.

Virginia summers where I sail on an inland lake have little wind. But this year the wind is much better so hope it is fixed soon. Perhaps that is why the screw lasted for 4 years - not much wind.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:14 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Quote:
In the parts guide as:

88991215 SET SCREW, TI MAST V BRACE 1/4-20 THRD RLD, 17-4 SS

Yes, you can replace it as a precaution. It is held in with blue Loc Tite.

Both the rolled threads and the 17-4 stainless were improvements in strength.


This was changed for the TI back in 2011.

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:21 am 
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I own quite a few extractor screw sets but was mesmerized recently by a slick infomercial for a 2 stage extractor (first drills out a conical hole that fits a special extractor bit). It seemed to work on some very tuff projects.

Wish I could remember the product name, but I'm pretty sure the phone # was 1-800-sumthin-sumthin.

HTH. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:49 am 
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Location: Palm City, Florida
bobco wrote:
I have broken quite a few of those studs and they typically break flush like yours did. The good news is the broken piece is usually not tight in the brass threads. I was able to work a couple out with a sharp center punch and a tiny hammer. Basically you punch a mark off center then tap it around in a circle to get the stud out. On another I had to put a cutting disk on my dremel and cut a screw driver slot in the top. I only had 1 that I had to drill, I used a left handed drill bit and was able to work it out with that.
Hope this helps

Excellent advice as always, thank you Bob.

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Ezra Appel
Palm City, Florida
2014 Tandem Island


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:52 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
NOHUHU wrote:
I own quite a few extractor screw sets but was mesmerized recently by a slick infomercial for a 2 stage extractor (first drills out a conical hole that fits a special extractor bit). It seemed to work on some very tuff projects.





... it sure does - I just had to buy a set to get her waterpump off after breaking one of the bolts last weekend (think you can still see the broken bolt in the middle hole)

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Craftsman Deck-Out
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Alan W.
His/Hers Papaya Hobie Adventure Island's
.. and a Hobie Outback SUV


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:19 am 
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Good news - the Hobie dealer was able to remove the sheared screw by drilling it out and cleaning up the threads of the brass insert and then put in the new strengthened screw with blue loctite. I put the rest back together but noticed that the turnbuckles when turned to center over the screw were no longer symmetrical since one was shorter than the other when tightened with equal force on both sides. Does this mean the hull is slightly deformed? Is this a problem? Should I force them to match? If I did then I would be putting pressure on the screw to move sideways and perhaps shear it off just under the nut. Right now the pressure is down and not down and sideways.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:16 am 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Working wih the hull is like working with a bowl of jello. The hull will shift a little one way or the other to fit the brace. I usually just adjust the brackets to fit over the stud where it is then tighten it down.
Bob


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