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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 5:39 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2015 7:18 am
Posts: 85
Location: Sydney, Australia
Hi all

I'm a proud new owner of a 2011 TI :) I have a couple of 'concerns' following my detailed inspection of the hull...

The boat has been stored on a trailer with 3 horizontal cross-bars, no cradles etc...think it has been tied down pretty tight.

Anyway - it has several flat spots.

1. Is this a big deal or can I use the normal methods to try and get them out (air pressure inside hull and hot water)? The amas also have flat spots too, assuming same method can be used for those? They are really bad to the rear of the boat (in between the rudder and rear seat), then a second section which is in line with the rear mirage drive hole - not sure given it is right on the mirage drive hole if this makes resolving the flat spot harder. If they are just superficial / only needing to be fixed for general aesthetics then I am not overly worried.

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2. How do I avoid flat spots like these in future? Current trailer design is obviously not ideal for storing the boat on - should I have cradles that the hull sits in? Or store in another method (off the trailer)?

3.. The scupper holes in that are between the 2 seats, one almost looks as though it has had a small hole and been repaired at the TOP of the scupper hole - however on the inside I can't see any actual evidence of product to repair it, I know the past owner used beach wheels at times and I'm thinking maybe it has pushed and ALMOST broken through the scupper hole, creating a really thin spot where it has stressed the plastic...because if it had previously been a hole and repaired there would be some sort of fibreglass / product that I would be able to see from inside the hull hatch? Is this a concern or while it is waterproof/not leaking or cracked, no action required?

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4. At front nose of the hull there is a couple deep scratches, deepest is maybe 1 or 2mm deep - should this be repaired or would it be OK? (not sure how thick the plastic hull is as to how deep a scratch becomes a concern). I don't mind if it is just cosmetic/aesthetics - but if potential to be a weak point or crack and I should fix it, then I will?

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5. Finally, with the mirage flippers, should I be replacing the fin if the metal rod is slightly showing, or wait when/if it falls off/breaks?

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Hopefully this is all just standard wear for a 5 year old boat! If anyone can shed light on to whether any of this is serious problems and/or what really needs fixing and what doesn't so much...I'd be very grateful :)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 9:21 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:40 am
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Location: Blacklick, Ohio
The flat spots you should be able to pop back out using boiling water. Don't know about that scupper hole. The scratches ate superficial but you could always fill them in with a plastic welder if it makes you feel better. The hole in the fin looks like the mast has poked through. If the rest of the fin is in good condition you could just fill the hole with marine goop.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 9:22 am 
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Location: Blacklick, Ohio
Oh, and yes you should look at a different trailer setup. Either hobie cradles or PVC bunks.

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2015 Hobie Tandem Island Hibiscus
"Third Normal Form"

  • Trampolines
  • Hobie cover
  • Davis Spar Fly
  • Kayakbob's Sprayskirts
  • Spine Board Hakas


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 10:58 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:24 pm
Posts: 780
Location: Houston, TX
PVC bunks distribute the weight the best in my opinion and would be my choice.
Scratches are no big deal. The scupper looks like it is thin in that spot so I would be careful about using anything in the scupper that puts pressure on that area.
The hull deformation was due to storage with crossway supports. If you store the boat on PVC bunks in a hot garage, some of the natural shape will return over the simmer. Running boiling water over it like Tom mentioned may give you faster results.
My fins will look like that after a bit of use. I take a lighter to the fin and once the rubber becomes soft, I mold it over the pin and the rubber adheres to itself. No goop even required.

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“Out of sight of land the sailor feels safe. It is the beach that worries him.”
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 6:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2015 7:18 am
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Thanks for the replies. Yeah the 'thinned out' scupper hole is my biggest worry. Its in the middle set of scupper holes not the rear set. When transporting the TI with a beach cart is that the set that would be used most often? I wonder if there is anything I can do to 'reinforce' it. I don't have a beach cart yet and would very seldom use one, but I would like to get one for the odd chance I need it. I will use a trailer 95% of the time.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 7:08 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:24 pm
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Location: Houston, TX
Your fine with the trailer. You might try to reinfore the scupper hole with PCV. I know Hobie reinforced the scuppers with a black plastic liner in recent years. Maybe that insert can be ordered from Hobie an epoxied/glued into place.

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Greg

2016 AI - Spinn & Jib

“Out of sight of land the sailor feels safe. It is the beach that worries him.”
– Charles G. Davis

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:56 am
Posts: 39
Location: Tampa, FL
The plastic inserts would be the way to go for the scupper holes but if you can't get them I would suggest using G-Flex epoxy and fiberglass cloth. I've used this product with great success on my older Hobie Adventure kayak with the cam lock towers. Easy to work with and you have about 30 minutes of workable time before it starts getting hard. You can also try a heat gun for the small surface scratches, (be careful not to over heat the plastic). As for the deep ones, use the plastic weld kit from Hobie or the epoxy, if you're not worried about color difference. I epoxy will dry to an amber color and that may blend well with your papaya boat.

Good luck

http://www.nrs.com/product/2272/gflex-6 ... repair-kit

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