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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:12 am
Posts: 1
Location: Evansville, IN
I recently purchased a Hobie Adventure Island and am wondering what roof rack would be best. I drive a Toyota Prius and am leaning toward either a Hullavator or a Thule Slipstream kayak carrier:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsjDL8Y7MtM

My main concern is the amas. How do you transport them? Would it be better to retract them to the sides of the kayak body and then place the boat in the Slipstream saddles, leave them spread them out or remove them and try to transport them in a J-Style kayak rack adjacent to the Slipstream saddles?

Thanks in advance,

Kris


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:01 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Redmond, Wa.
I use the Hullivater with Yakima Kayak Stackers. I have been very happy with the set up.

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 Post subject: Impressive!
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 10:03 pm
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Location: California Delta
:shock: WOW,That is impressive! Thanks for the photos.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:25 am 
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Nice setup NorskBoy, is the 'Yakima Kayak Stackers' the thing holding the amas? Does it come w/ the hullivater, if not how much is it extra? Planning to get an AI this next two month or so and going w/ the exact setup you got. How easy is it to load the AI on to that Hullivator?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:46 am
Posts: 76
Location: sacramento
I have a Yakima rack with slide pole extenders on one side. With AI weight.. bought one Hulavator. The round cross bar will allow the Hulavator mounting bracket to rotate. If you raise one side out of sequence with the other the imbalance may cause the the locking latch to bend and remain that way. So the Hulavator is not the greatest..but may be the choice for a SUV. A Thule rack is square and may not allow the rotation of the mounting brackets.. I have considered drilling and bolting..but settled on black duct tape and replace it seasonal..accept the defect... Keep allen bolts very tight. The weight of two AI's may cause the complete rack to slide about..keep track of location with small piece of marking tape in the door jam. I have mounted both Ama's in the Hulavator and sail up top. I like the way the stackers allow mounting but will require climbing on top the SUV..So this season I will check the cost of the stackers cause I carry them inside the cab. They would be real trouble in an accident. When a new truck is required..loading options will improve.. with a goal post. Always use tie down straps front and rear can't secure enough.. Still takes two people to load these kayaks unless your feeling mighty strong or don't mind banging them around. I have done it...but I do have to set my mind to the lift...40 lbs and under with the Hulavator is best.

Norskboy : are you securing each Ama ?? or S the tie strap around somehow or one at the top of each stack?? I think I see four straps and six stacker poles??


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:01 pm
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Location: Redmond, Wa.
The Stackers are additional I ran without the stackers for a few months but decided to invest the $90 each set total $180 to create a more elegant solution. I use one strap in the front and one in the back. I actually load my Kayaks with the Akas in the hull 75-80 Lbs. I do not have an issue but there is a bit of learning curve as learn to apply pressure in the right way to lift the Kayaks. I think I avoid the twisting issue do to the square bars of the Thule. The drawback is you cannot easily lay down the stackers.

I tried many different solutions to get the AIs on top of my rig by myself without the Hullavaator and failed. Finally I had to lay down the coin so I could go sailing alone. My since of symmetry required that I by two, ouch$$$

I have to say that I really like the solution.

NorskBoy

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:03 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:46 am
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Location: sacramento
Norskboy

Noticed you picture post several months ago. If you have had no slip with the Thule rack I may change out and go with the stackers..Cause the Yackima round cross bar is trouble.. I will try epoxy to stop the mounting bracket of the hulavator from rotation. often drive several hours one way for clean lake water and after a day on the water the squat and lift often turns into a jerk and bang trying for the hulavator..I have considered other methods of lift... all things and materials become that much more work..When I get 4000$ will get trailer and pull with smaller car...save gas on the monster SUV I have to use now..Have newer horse trailer but my better half is not in favor of mixing use. Best is the trailer that can be back directly into the water...I have never hauled trailer of such light weight...seems as if sway could be and issue..This is why I have really stuck with car top methods...carts and so forth..I am not weak but the lifting for 1 is just out of reach and affects my back requiring 2. On the forum I have never heard anyone complain or warn about trailer problems. Only good post about the Rack and Roll or the Hobie..other than cost


Last edited by kepra on Sun Feb 17, 2008 8:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:01 pm
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Location: Redmond, Wa.
kepra wrote:

.Cause the Thule round cross bar is trouble..


Kepra,

I can see where the "Yakima" Rack would be problem. I do put a lot of force on the rack when loading. The Draw back is the Stackers on a Thule square bar, you can not fold them down when the rack is loaded so you end up driving around with them up if you do not take the rack off when not in use. With the Yakima rack you can easily fold them down. I like the idea of the trailer I think it would be significantly easier. Unfortunately I have a travel trailer and if I want to take the Hobies with me I can't pull both. Using the Hullavators is not as easy as yo might think there is definitely a short learning curve to get them to operate cleanly.

Good luck,

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:57 am
Posts: 222
Location: Phuket, Thailand
Will the hullavator fit onto Thule bars that are eliptical in profile?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:33 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:01 pm
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Location: Redmond, Wa.
Philip1el wrote:
Will the hullavator fit onto Thule bars that are eliptical in profile?


This is right off the Thule Website "Attachés to all of Thule Racks load bars (including square, elliptical Rapid Aero & Xsporter) and Yakima Racks round bars. The Thule 897XT Hullavator is not compatible with factory roof racks."

One critical thing is the overall length of the bar needs to extend out past the car far enough so that the Hullavator clears the vehicle when in the loading position. I went to a local "rack and Road" and they had a chart to ensure that I got the right length Bars.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:57 am
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Location: Phuket, Thailand
Many Thanks, Norskboy. I will check the 'overhang' on the bars.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:28 am 
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Hey Norskboy, will the Yakima Kayak Stackers attach to the Thule load bars? They are square and I noticed the attachment for the Yakima Kayak stackers are circular. Thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:01 pm
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Location: Redmond, Wa.
The stackers will work with the Thule square bars the brackets are designed to be modified. Unfortunately you can't lay them down when not in use on Thule bars where you can on the Yakima. Not a huge deal but annoying just the same.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:10 pm
Posts: 92
Location: Gilbert, AZ
I have a question about the Thule Hullavator system. I've got a 12 foot trailer that I load a Yamaha Rhino on and have two overhead crossbars over the Rhino with steel tubing and 2x4's to carry my AI and another kayak. The overall height is close to 7 feet and it's very difficult to get my AI and another yak up on top. Do the rack manufacturers make a base crossbar for the Hullavator that can be bolted to the steel tubing or 2x4 crossbar? If I'm able to mount the Hullavator, how difficult will it be to raise and lower the AI?

Thank you for feedback.

Bob

Gilbert Arizona


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 2:46 am 
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2010 3:53 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland Australia
scrantonicity wrote:
I recently purchased a Hobie Adventure Island and am wondering what roof rack would be best. I drive a Toyota Prius and am leaning toward either a Hullavator or a Thule Slipstream kayak carrier:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsjDL8Y7MtM

My main concern is the amas. How do you transport them? Would it be better to retract them to the sides of the kayak body and then place the boat in the Slipstream saddles, leave them spread them out or remove them and try to transport them in a J-Style kayak rack adjacent to the Slipstream saddles?

Thanks in advance,

Kris


Kris

I've had a Hobie (Oasis) come off my car at 90km/h which was on Thule racks including a Thule Slipstream. The problem was partly the suitability of the racks for my car (Alfa Romeo). The Thule racks (foot specifically) have since been taken off the market for my model car.

What happened was the Racks/Slipsteam and Oasis all left the car attached to each other (minus the car).

My opinion after loading it a few times and worrying about the extreme flex was that the Slipstream is too light weight for a plastic boat. At speed and a bit of wind under the hull which points up, the boat get's the bounces on the light weight Slipstream and eventually something gives.....which were the feet attaching everything to the roof. It's just a constant jiggling with the weight rather than a firm hold.

I think the Slipstream is aimed at the light weight kayak market.

Ken.

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