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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:41 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
I have been tinkering with the great "instant on/off" PVC loader design you may have seen on youtube. It uses industrial suction cups to mount a PVC cradles to the bonnet and windshields, exactly when and where you need it.



They needed to be stretched and reinforced to accommodate the AI hulls shape and weight. I also added large padded rollers to make the job of raising and lowering the 16ft hull a piece of cake. The job can now be done one-handed or by someone who is not a weightlifter.

You just need a 4 HEAD SUCTION CUP from Northern Tool + Equipment, some 1" and 1.25" Sched 40 PVC and the proper plastic glues. Use blue pvc primer and grey PVC glue or a multipurpose cement. You are bonding PCV to the ABS grip. I added a dowel and stainless wood screws to add stability.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_42404_42404?cm_ven=Aggregates&cm_cat=Pricegrabber2&cm_pla=Category&cm_ite=160876

Pad the rollers with pipe insulation, tennis balls or pool noodles and "Bob's your uncle".

The improved AI loaders are are compact, light, inexpensive and attach securely in seconds, as you can see.
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The 1.25" pipe rollers slip over the 1" PVC frame and allow the boat to glide up and down the cradles. These sleeves are approx. 5" on the bottom and 7" on the side arms.

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Makes a huge difference. I used to struggle with a handmade side loader bar. It worked, but required too much time to set up and was less stable.

This design should work great for SUV's and other vehicles with high roofs and steep rear glass windows.

My racks and loaders are all removable without a trace, so except for the smell of wet leather seats, you would never know the car has been to the beach. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:09 pm 
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Thats a good idea I like it

PS - your steering wheel is on the wrong side.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:13 pm 
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:lol: No - it's on the port side. Just like your Hobie.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:35 pm 
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Good job there mate! 8)

We just about need an "Inventor's Competition" - there would be plenty of starters!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:03 pm 
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NOHUHU wrote:
:lol: No - it's on the port side. Just like your Hobie.


Damm you got me there...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 2:55 am 
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Great idea. Might have to investigate it more.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:13 am 
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And guess what? For $300 you can get them ready made.
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http://www.amagansettbeachco.com/indexrl.asp?type=RL

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 12:44 pm 
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Looks good,
What distance are you're roof bars placed at?
I've bought some for my car but thought they werent far enough apart to support the hull enough.


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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 2:20 pm 
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Thanks barber.

Placing both racks just on the inside (or outside) of the AKA crossbars works best. This prevents the hull from sliding either direction. Whatever works on your vehicle.

Have you tried a bow and stern tie down lines to stabilize the load?

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 11:33 pm 
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Cheers NOHUHU,
I'm more worried about the exaggerated weight on the yak at these points.
I think I'll be lucky if the bars are 1 m apart.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:23 am 
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I've assembled your 'parts list' for your PVC Kayak loader, but I'm a little confused here still. Please help.

1) Your list included 1.25" PVC, but the apparatus looks like it's all 1" PVC. What am I missing there?

2) You mention slipping 1.25" 'pipe rollers' over the 1" PVC. What exactly IS a pipe roller, from the photo it just looks like you slipped black pipe insulation over the 1" PVC.

3. You mention 'bonding the PVC to the ABS grip". From the photo I see, it looks like the wooden dowel from the grip is just screwed into the "T" junction of the main PVC pipe.

Great idea......hope to make one of these as soon as I can hear back from you.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:08 pm 
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(Answered this in a PM - but here it is for the clan)

You can't see them all, but there are 3 layers.

The supporting frame is all 1"pipe and fittings (glued and screwed).

Before gluing, I slipped sections of 1.25" PVC over the exposed sections of 1" pipe. So now, it it double layered between the fittings.

This outer layer is not glued, so it spins freely, providing "wheels" for the kayak to roll on. It works great for this, reducing resistance and adding strength at the same time.

Because the outside diameter of 1" fittings and 1.25" pipe is the same, you also get a nice smooth surface that is less likely to scratch up the plastic kayak hull.

I covered these "wheels" with foam insulation (the third layer).

Because the AI is close to 100 lbs, you need to keep the PVC lengths short and reinforce all joints. The ABS to PVC is heavily glued and screwed but not really secure enough. A dowel was added so that the screws have something to bite into. This helps prevent the whole thing from twisting and breaking when only one side of the loader has weight on it.

Glad you like it. The greatest thing about this loader design is how easily it removes and stows away. Takes just seconds...

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 12:10 pm 
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here's one Scott Lovig did back in 2009....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kxcqbbt ... r_embedded

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