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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2016 5:15 am
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Location: Northern Ireland
Hi Everyone
I'm a newbie to forum and Hobie Islands.

I hope to pick up my first and new 2016 TI in two weeks time and I'm really looking forward to it. :D I blame this forum and YouTube for my decision. :wink:

I have been reading a lot on this forum about transporting the TI by car topping and trailer. I am used to car topping kayaks for years but nothing as big as the TI. I have a 500 mile round trip to my nearest dealer to pick it up I want to be sure I get it home in good condition.

I am currently modifying a small boat trailer and fitting it with a longer draw bar to suit the 18.5 foot TI. It already has two 6 foot carpeted bunks that can be adjusted to suit whatever width I need, but I gather from the forum its best to use PVC pipe as bunks.

I think I could remove the timber bunks which are mounted on 6 foot steel runners and replace them with 3 inch PVC pipe, say 10 foot long. I would cut the PVC pipe length wise and slide it along the steel runners.

I have three questions;

1. Is 3 inch PVC suitable, i.e. will it fit the hull shape of the 2016 TI, if not what diameter should I go for?
2. What should the spacing be between the PVC pipes on a 2016 TI?
3. What length should the PVC be.

I will be able to adjust spacing at the dealer but would like to have it sorted before I leave.

Any other advice is very welcome.

Many thanks
Pottsy

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 5:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
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Location: Austin Texas
Scupper hole spacing is 11" on center. Most people seem to use 1.5 - 2" pvc but it needs to be adequately supported or reinforced inside with broom handles or wood dowel as some have done.
I used grey pvc conduit because it is UV resistant.
Having a self centering roller at the rear of the trailer has been very helpful on my trailer.

Chris


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 9:21 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2016 5:15 am
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Location: Northern Ireland
Hi Chris
Thanks for coming back. I will see if i can get 2 inch on existing bunks.

Would you know want length i should have the bunks.

Ta
Pottsy


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 10:19 am 
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Location: Bellevue, Nebraska
Pottsy,
I used 2" PVC. I didn't need any reinforcement that Buckaroo mentioned. I think the smaller the diameter the more flexible it is. They are on about 10.5" to 11.5" centers. The hull is not the same width along its length. 10' lengths seemed to work fine. +1 on the rear centering roller. I also added a roller to help support the bow. You will also need to modify the starboard pvc bunk to accommodate the venturi drains. A dremmel tool and heat gun work great for this. If you're going to leave the amas attached during transport you might want to consider separate bunks to support them as well.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 11:57 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2014 2:13 pm
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Location: San Antonio, TX
I'm also using gray 2" pvc for bunks. They are 10' long (12' would be better but the longest I could find was 10') and are supported on each end, along with one support in the middle. I also have a bunk that supports the bow underneath the mast cup. This setup has so far been working great.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 3:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
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Location: Austin Texas
Pottsy

For a 10 Ft length under the main part of the hull that spacing is correct. A roller at the rear of the trailer gets the narrow bow far enough onto the trailer so that the scupper lines can then start riding on the bunks.
On my trailer I have two additional separate sections running all the way to the bow and as mentioned the scupper lines do narrow towards the bow. I used separate sections because the coupling flares on the pvc are thick enough to cause the boat to not sit flat on the bunks. Others have used various methods to support the bow in addition to 10 Ft of pvc under the main hull. For me it was simpler to use pvc all the way because I made some custom hardware to mount and adjust it easily to the grid on my trailer. I think supporting the pvc adequately is important because you are trying to keep the hull from deforming over time and pvc is very flexible. My boat sits on the trailer for storage in the garage.
I removed the "venturi" drains at the dealer and have never found a reason to reinstall them.

Chris


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 4:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2016 5:15 am
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Location: Northern Ireland
Thanks everyone for your advice. Its always difficult to build a trailer without the boat.
I hope to pick up the hobie this weekend so im going to leave existing 6foot bunks on trailer and bring lots of timber/pvc to be ready to make changes at the dealer.
The kayak will be supported in the centre by the 6 foot bunks.
The six foot to the bow will be supported by a keel roller at bow.
Unfortunately the six foot at the rear will be unsupported for the trip home.
I will sort rear out when i get home.
Amas will be on roof rack on car and everything else in the car.

Do you think my rear end will be ok for the trip. 250 miles in ireland!!! 5 hour road trip.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 5:34 pm 
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Location: Bellevue, Nebraska
1st off I think you'll be fine for the short drive home. 2nd, holy cow 5 hours for 250 miles! Doesn't Ireland have a national highway system with speeds greater than 50mph?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 5:46 pm 
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Location: Northern Ireland
LOL.[SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND SMILING EYES] Roads arent like the States highways. Only some of it is motorway 70 mph and the rest winds its way around towns. Just checked google maps its 289 miles but still estimated at 5 hours.
Thanks for coming back.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 6:06 pm 
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Location: Bellevue, Nebraska
Lol! Good luck! I bet its a gorgeous 5 hours though. Enjoy your new boat and feel free to ask any question here. We are all more than happy to help if we can.

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