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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
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Location: Austin Texas
I'm building a custom TI trailer and need to determine the correct height for the winch post. The boat height in the specifications is 15.5" without crossbars. I'm assuming this is pretty close to the height of the bow cleat if the boat is sitting on a flat surface.
If I build my winch stand so that the winch shackle exits the winch spool at 15.5" above what the boat is sitting on, is this about right to meet the bow cleat ?
The winch post will be vertical with a bow stop on the boat side and the winch mounted to the top and offset a little towards the hitch to make room to pull the boat against the stop. At least that's the plan in my head at the moment.

Thanks

Chris


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 02, 2011 8:48 am
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Location: Southwest Calif.
Have you thought about making an adjustable one where the top tube slides inside of the bottom tube and both have holes in it at 1 inch intervals to allow a receiver trailer hitch pin or a 1/4 inch ball lock pin to slip fit in to lock it in place?
You could weld it in place later if you want.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 6:23 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
I would simply pick a distance up to the bow roller which is LESS than the height of the bow, so that when you snub the winch line up, there is a vertical component tending to pull the bow downwards. This means that your Island will be more secure on the trailer. I reckon 15 inches or so will be fine. No need to complicate things.

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 7:12 am 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
What Tony said. If you then decide that you need to move the winch a bit higher, then it is easy to put a spacer in between the winch base and the mounting plate on the winch.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:30 am 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
I should add that I fitted a looooong "D" shackle to the bow padeye fitting, as well as a snapshackle attached to the winch line (most winches come with a huge hook which is inappropriate in this context). So the snapshackle can be joined to the D shackle with one hand.

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:20 pm 
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Location: Long Jetty, NSW
While I understand the reluctance to drill holes in the hull. Particularly in a new boat. Nothing I have read on the forum suggests that fitting a pad eye through the stem (like a "normal" trailer boat) is a good idea. Is there a reason for this that I have missed? I don't own a TI yet so maybe it's obvious - like no way to fit a backing plate or insufficient hull strength in that area?


Brad

Long Jetty

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:59 pm 
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There's no need for it Brad. The original bow padeye can be used. It is attached to a brass molded in fitting. Hobie do warn to be careful if using it with a mechanical advantage though.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
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Location: Austin Texas
Thanks for the helpful info guys. I'm going to try to avoid making the post adjustable. It's such a simple weldment
I may just cut an extra set of mounting plates in case I totally mess up or don't like the layout. I can weld a lot faster than I can lay out and drill adjustment holes. I think what I see on Tony's trailer is the winch mounted on the hitch side of the post and the strap runs over a roller/bow stop at the top. That seems like a good setup that saves some space.

Painting the components of the trailer is taking a lot of time working around winter weather in central Texas. Hopefully I'll have some pictures to show soon.

Thanks

Chris


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