Getting a new TI soon

I didn't think about that (my t-bar doesn't tilt) but sure wish I had one (they weren't out yet when i got mine).
On my vehicle i would need some kind of sliding support to protect (maybe just simple carpeting) the rear of my car above the rear window from the pvc tubing rubbing against when you tilt the t-bar rack down (the fronts of the pvc pipes would point way into the air when you first start loading ( I don't see a down side to that). If you had the pvc pipes at the front tied together with elbows and a short section of pipe in between to maintain distance. In the center area just a section of nylon strapping ( 12 inches long) screwed to the underside of the pvc pipe in a couple places along the length would prevent the pipes from spreading apart in the middle.
Think thru how it will operate.
1: attach the tBar to the hitch.
2: place a rug above the rear window of the vehicle (for the pipes to rub on if neccessary)
3: attach the parallel pipes to the t-bar via thumb screws.
4: swing the tbar rack down and place the bow of the boat over the pvc pipes (the pipes will keep the kayak centered) (obviously the front of the pvc pipes will be way up in the air at this point)
5: go to the back of the TI and lift the back and push forward (the rack should swing up on it's own), having the pipes stick past the t-bar about a foot will help them guide the kayak.
6: it's ok for the tip of the bow to sit on the cross brace on the front.
To aid in loading adding a roller to the t-bar at the back will help, i just used a 9 inch painting roller over a piece of pvc tubing with aluminum angle iron with screws thru to support the roller (super simple). Once the t-bar goes to vertical, your roller takes over easing loading.
You will need one of those nylon cross straps mounted about two to three feet in front of the t-bar (needs to be designed so it doesn't catch the roof as it slides, (no screws sticking out the bottom) then maybe one more strap somewhere along the length, this one may become a bugger if the bow catches on it as it slides by (might not be needed, you will have to determine that at trial.
Worst case your out $20 bucks for the materials if it doesn't work.
The blank wooden broom handles stuffed into pvc tubing helps keep everything from sagging.
Heck now i thought this thru i'm gonna go by one of those tilting t-bars and make myself one.
Bob

An alternative would be to mount the PVC on both crossbars with enough overhang at the rear so that the bow transitions smoothly from the t bar to the overhanging PVC when the t bar is brought to the vertical position. Perhaps a sling of nylon webbing between the two aft ends of the PVC could be used to align the bow and prevent it from hitting the roof.

After reading fusioneng post I checked into Harbor Freights foldup utility trailers. they have a 4' x 8' trailer that is 12' long including the tongue hitch, the trailer cost $249 and has a 20% sale thru March so $200. The trailer pivots back to the ground for easy loading and unloading. I will get a tongue extension from RedTrailer, making it 15' to 16' overall. I will keep it stored in my garage, and during the winter fold it up and store it against the wall. Going to attach PVC cradles using unistrut channel attachments and 'U' bolts. Also getting 2 Dollies from Harbor Freight to make a storage rack so it can be rolled against the back wall of the garage when putting it away for the winter season. Someone recommended adding a rubber roller to the back end of the trailer for easy loading. Without this forum I have no idea what I would do. Fusioneng you are the expert with years of experience. Your post have been ever so helpful.

scc, are you in South Carolina too? I saw on a Utube where it was recommended to attach a rope to the end of the Tandem Island and the other end to the base of the T loader hitch, shorter than the length of the kayak so that when lifting it onto the T bar it can't slide out from the back side. Then stand between the SUV and the rotated back T bar, with your back to the SUV lift the bow onto the T bar, making it easier to handle. You might already have known this, but thought it might help.

Can't wait to get my TI in April!

Sam

Saw that video too! Seems more secure than the non-slip mat that comes with the T loader. Thanks! P.S. Not in SC - CA.


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scc

When getting the Rhino Rack T loader, I was going to add 18" rack pads with Yakama Sliding Kayak cradles on each side to cradle the kayak from each side. the SUV rack is what came with my Toyota 4 runner, it is 2" wide kind of flat. Considered getting an 18" hitch extension so that the T loader sat further back putting more load on the T bar, taking more load off the car top. Not sure if these ideas were any good but that's what came to mind.

Sam

Had a similar thought. Planning PVC bunks on the car top crossbars and some sort of cradle for the t loader. By adjusting the t loader height, the load can be adjusted as desired. MY biggest challenge now is figuring out how to attach the PVC bunks to a Thule t slot aero bar.


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For what it is worth, here is how I created my roof rack with PVC pipe. I bought two small brackets and bent them to create a hook that would fit over my first crossbar. I then attached these brackets to the pipe.



I then took the base pieces from my Yakima ski rack and mounted them to the crossbars. On the forward crossbar, these pieces are placed on the outside of the pipe. On the rear crossbar they are place on the inside of the pipe. Together, these pieces keep the pipes from moving sideways and the bracket keeps the pipe from moving back.



I purchased a goal post rack from Harbor Freight and installed two bolts on the top of the rack approximately 10.5 inches apart. These bolts stick up approximately 1.5 inches. I drilled corresponding holes in the bottom of the PVC pipe so the pipe would sit down over these bolts. These bolts thus hold the back of the PVC pipes in the correct position. Between the pipes, I just taped some foam to act as a cushion when loading the TI.



As discussed, I tie a rope between the boat and car so I can simply lift the front of the boat onto goal post without the boat rolling backwards. I then lift the back up and slide forward. It is not easy, but it works.

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Randy
2013 Tandem Island "Frenzy"

@frenzy

Thanks so much for the information and the very clear photos. This is the type of setup I'm planning and it's good to know it can work. 1.5" PVC seems to be the mantra on the forums, but yours seems bigger. What size PVC did you use?

SCC-

I used 2" PVC as I thought it would give a bit more support...I don't know if it really makes much difference in the big scheme of things. I designed my system so I could remove or install the pipes very quickly. Just lift pipes off bolts on back rack and slide forward to disengage the hook. I will continue to use this setup when it make sense, but I did just buy up a good used trailer and will be modifying that for more frequent use and storage.

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Randy
2013 Tandem Island "Frenzy"

Thanks again. By the way, the setting in your photos looks very familiar! Checked your location to try to figure out why. You're in the PNW. My dad lives in Edmonds.


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scc-

I also used 2" because I wanted to ensure that I had sufficient clearance above the Yakima base pieces that hold the pipes in place.

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Randy
2013 Tandem Island "Frenzy"

Frenzy:
Here is a pic of the roller that I made for the back of my trailer (super simple, just a paint roller over PVC pipe, mounted to angle aluminum (took all of 20 minutes to make),, something like this might make it easier to slide the boat over your T-bar). hey it works.....

fusioneng-

Thanks...I have always enjoyed reading about your mods. Would love to get down your way sometime to do some sailing in Florida.

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Randy
2013 Tandem Island "Frenzy"

Went by to look at the trailer at Academy and it measured 3'6" between the fenders. What are the measurements of the TI with the outriggers folded? Do you guys think that is a wide enough trailer?

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Chris


2015 Tandem Island-ivory dune

My Trailex trailer is 3'3" between the fenders. If you can arrange things so the TI is above the wheels and fenders (as it does on a Trailex) then it'd be fine. My TI is about 4 feet across at the widest point, amas and all, when on the trailer.