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 Post subject: Hobie Trailer for AI
PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:05 am 
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Any one have the Hobie trailer for the two AIs?

I would be interested in a review on what you think of it.

Thanks - Rangerdude

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:55 pm 
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Location: Franklin, TN
Hi Ranger Dude:

Here is a link to some pictures of my 2 AIs and 2 Sports on my Oldencamp trailer:

http://picasaweb.google.com/ray.f.johnson/AITrailer

The trailer is UCT4 model from Magneta. I added four 8 foot carpeted bunk and the rear Hobie cradle for the AIs and just store the Sports upside down on the upper berths. The sails (all four) are stored in the PVC tubes furled and ready to go. It only takes a few minutes on the ramp to get all ready to go. Trails great too.

Thanks,
Ray J

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:16 am 
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Hi Ray,

Nice set up, I like the PVC tubs for the sails.

Rangerdude.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:33 pm 
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Location: Albuquerque
RAn a post with this titile for your further information on trailers.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:19 pm
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Location: Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Howdy from Jackson Hole!

I've got the Hobie Tandem AI trailer. I bolted the largest Yakima Skybox to the "T", and it rocks. It holds all our gear AND a folding table and chairs.

The AI custom cradles were expensive, but are well made and don't dent the hulls.

My dealer had a helluva time assembling it, but that was his problem, not mine.

Happy Trails!

Chris

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:03 pm 
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Location: Albuquerque
Has anyone experinced the rubbing of the Amas together when trailering two AI's on the Carnai Trailer? My nice shiny Amas are now pretty scuffed. :cry:


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 Post subject: Ama rubbing...
PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 6:42 am 
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Location: Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Yup, the inside amas do rub against the upright support when trailering the boat. You actually are forced to drag the boat against them a bit while pulling outward to "force" the amas to drop onto the cradle. Perhaps carpet scraps around the uprights would help?

Sailing in front of the Teton mountains last Sunday, I looked at scuffs and scraps on the amas and paint... I'm not a perfectionist, and they reminded me of all the fun we're having with our boats. We've drug them thru brush on lakeshores to take a break, or to secure them for camping, a number of times.

All of these dings remind me of what a wonderful time we've been having.

I'm just happy they're rotomolded instead of fiberglass... The fiberglass gel coat would look terrible on our AI's.

Happy Trails!

Chris

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And in the end,
the love you take,
is equal to the love,
you make...
--The Beatles


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 Post subject: Carnai Trailer for AI
PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2008 8:54 am
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Location: Albuquerque
Actually the amas are rubbing together forward of the uprights. Am I trailering them wrong? Are the distances between cradles set wrong?
Help Matt!

OK Thanks Matt....Would be good to add that info to the Carnai Trailer info....I got really bummed one day when I looked at the sandpapering that took place.

I also extended the metal bar that holds the tower lights to the rear to hold the rear lights further out so I don't get wacked in the rear by folks coming too close. Generally whatever you have on a trailer if it sticks out more than 2' has to have a red flag in place.


Last edited by Ranger1 on Wed Jul 30, 2008 11:35 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 11:23 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Yes the amas rub against each other or the vertical supports. The fit varies from boat to boat.

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 6:24 pm
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Location: Franklin, TN
Hi Guys: I'm using a different trailer but I installed the cradles as far apart as possible so that the boats don't touch. I have trailed many thousands of miles without any damage what so ever. As you can see in my pictures earlier in these messages, I did not use the front cradle (anyone want one, I have 2) but installed 2 eight foot bunks for each boat. This make unloading and particularly loading much easier and it supports the boat better. The rear cradles holds everything together. An arrangement like this my help in your case.
Thanks, Ray J

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 6:44 pm 
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I had this posted in another thread.. maybe it should go here.. thanks in advance for any help..
Hi, great thread.. I just got the cradles for the AI. I am planning on using an existing utility trailer to haul the AI. I plan on buying another AI next year so I plan on designing the trailer to hold two. I have access to a fab shop and galvanizer. My thought was to just make a fabriaction that basically will bolt to the existing trailer that will consist of the bunks to hold the AI cradles and a tower section that can hold a toy box and the sail holders all welded together. First does anyone here see a problem with this? Also can someone give me the length of the bunk sections, the distance between the two bunks and the basic measurment of the tower?

thanks for any help,, by the way all of your trailers look great.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 9:00 am 
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Location: Franklin, TN
Hi Guys: I think I may be able to help the rubbing issue. I just remembered that I forgot to mention the fact that I actually disconnect the aft aka from the ama when I trailer them. This will allow the amas to fold up closer to the kayak, gaining a lot of clearance between the two. Mine would not fit on the trailer with both fore and aft akas attached. The cradles do a great job holding it all together when trailing and it only takes a second to push down the ama to attach the aka while in the water. I do leave the aft aka attached to the kayak and it rides between the ama and kayak while on the trailer. I think you can see what I'm talking about in the my pictures posted above.
Thanks, Ray J

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:11 pm 
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Location: Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Howdy!

I'm glad you seem to have figured out your problem, which I didn't quite understand.

Makes no matter.

If you or anyone else needs the dimensions and distances of cradles on the Hobie Trailer, I'll measure them off for you on my mobile phone while we talk. Just post your telephone # backwards (to confuse spambots). I'll do whatever I can to help.

Regarding scuffs, I'm sure the best sailers here have some much less-than-perfect rigs. While you can undoubtedly keep them in perfectly ship shape condition, why? These aren't Benz Gull Wings. I bought ours with the idea of owning them a looooong time with no regard for resale.

I've got a 15 year old mountain bike which has been to hell and back, looks it, and is totally functional.

My bottom line is fun.

Happy Trails!

Chris

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And in the end,
the love you take,
is equal to the love,
you make...
--The Beatles


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:56 am 
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JacksonHoleWyoming I would like to get the dimensions of your trailer if possible.. I would like to get the tower section dimentions also, because I would like to get a toy box for the top.. anyway reply back and we'll exchange info.

thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:14 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:19 pm
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Location: Jackson Hole, Wyoming
These instructions will undoubtedly be baffling; perhaps making a drawing as you read them will help. Call me @ 307-733-4793 evenings and I'll attempt to answer individual questions and email you pictures of what you need clarified.

This is a verbal description of dimensions of the trailer Hobie sells for hauling 2 assembled Adventure Islands. People on this list have wanted to adapt trailers they already own to have this capability, and have asked details to keep their projects on the right track.

The Hobie trailer is well built and specially designed for it's job. It's made of galvanized steel, bolted together. It took my dealer a long time to figure things out; I'm glad I didn't have to assemble it. It has 2 pillars rising up between the kayaks, which form the foundation for mounting turn signals, license and optional storage box.

Buying 2 sets of cradles for the boats was expensive (I think about $300 apiece), but they're perfectly proportioned and cushioned. It would have been difficult to do this by myself. A friend bought a pair and easily mounted them to his existing trailer. The cradles actually "scrunch" the amas closer to the hull than they "want" to go. Making your own, you'd have to strap the amas close to the hull and then figure out the profile at the rear cradle. Also, the cradles are made of fiberglass, which gives a little to accommodate less than perfect boat placement. Good luck if you try this yourself. Note: The front cradle is "U" shaped to support only the hull. The back cradle is kinda "uUu" shaped to support the hull and amas.

The bottom front and rear cross braces (which the boat cradles are mounted on, are centered 5'6" apart. These cross braces are 6'7" long. The outside amas end up sticking out another 6" from the end of the front cross brace; this is a wider load than your vehicle.

Two pillars (3" by 2" stock) rise up 24" from the middle of the front and rear cross braces. They've had bases welded to their top and bottom with holes for a pair of mounting U bolts. Each pillar has a nicely padded "U" shaped cradle 9" from the top, left and right, to hold masts, The masts are easily strapped to these cradles with a welded chain link providing a place to knot a permanently mounted strap. Note to do-it-yourselfers: It wouldn't be as elegant, but you could simply use wide NRS straps to cinch the masts together tightly up high and out of the way.

A 3" by 2" piece of metal stock runs parallel to the trailer between the pillar tops, extending 9" behind the rear pillar and 1" ahead of the front pillar (allowing space for Ubolts). The rear of this piece between the pillars has an upside down 28" piece of wide "L" stock steel. This is for mounting the turn signals and license plate. The storage box you may choose to add isn't bolted to this, but the rear of mine rests on it.

Upper crossbraces, whose only use is to mount the storage box, are 1" by 3" stock (the 1" height raises the box above Ubolts elsewhere). They're 20" long. The upper cross braces are situated 22" and 58" from the front of the front of the 3" by 2" stock running between the pillar tops. Note to do-it-yourselfers: Having the upper cross braces a little longer would have expanded my mounting choices, but you don't want these to extend past the bottom edges of the storage box.

Sterns of the AI's extend about 5' beyond the bottom rear support. That's why the the lights are up higher than usual turn signal trailer placement on the bed of a trailer; this prevents the lights being hidden by the boat's length.

The front of the ball hitch extends 7'1" from the center of the front cross brace. These boats are sooooo long you need an extra long trailer tongue to accommodate them. There is only 1.5' of extra space from the bow of the boats to the front of the ball hitch.

I have the largest available Yakima Skybox bolted to the top of the the upper cross braces with 4 1/4" stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers. While 1/4" bolts seem lightweight, they match the holes provided by the manufacturer. The 20" length of the upper cross braces was less than what Yakima recommends, but worked out OK. The last thing you'd want would be Yakima crossbar pipes sticking out from the sides of the box; you'd poke your eye out in low light. This isn't the official way to mount the Yakima box, but was done with their knowledge and has served me well. I changed lock cores to match my other Yakima gear.

My Yakima Skybox has plenty of room to hold life preservers, pedal drives, a few tools, dagger boards, a roller picnic table and 2 large comfy nylon chairs. Never one to be burdened with too much money, I added two solar lights I've never needed to use: http://www.sollight.com/products/lidlight.cfm

Closing comments:

* Turn signals and lights need to be up high above the boats, since the sterns extend 5' past the end of the trailer. Lights at the trailer bed level would be obscured.
* When dragging the AI's onto their cradles, you must severly point the bows out away from the trailer. This drags the inside ama against the rear pillar and forces the ama to "nest" tightly into its rear cradle. The hull then drops nicely onto the front cradle. Of course, the boat is then strapped to the trailer over the cradles.
* This setup is heavy enough to make a trailer jack almost mandatory.


Happy Sailing!

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And in the end,
the love you take,
is equal to the love,
you make...
--The Beatles


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