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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 6:07 pm 
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Thanks for info Stringy.
I have taken a couple of photos of the hole that I described previously as a gouge.
Now I'm starting to wonder whether it is a moulding fault as it is right on the ridgeline of the drive well and there are several smaller holes that actually look like they are part of an imperfect mould :roll:
As you can see, this is at the rear of the drive well and you can see the dagger board slot which helps with your bearings.
As I said previously, the larger of the holes is quite deep.

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Matt, before I attempt any repair of this, could you comment on whether this might be a warranty claim.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:00 am 
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too my untrained eye it looks like moulding that has been exacerbated by the drive catching on it.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:46 am 
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I bought my Hobie Mirage Adventurer in March or April of 2006. It cost me a small fortune as I recall, something like $1600 or $1700!
Anyway, on my first trip out I managed to put a hole in it. I was pedaling away away like crazy, doing about six or seven mph when I hit a sand bar HARD, pushing the front part of the drive right into the kayak. It was a stupid thing to do. The kayak even had a great big sign in the front saying not to do that!
In order to get back to the boat ramp I had to follow the shoreline, and had to stop every ten minutes to drain the kayak.
I was sick to my stomach. I'd spent all that money, for one trip. I was pretty sure that it wasn't repairable at all.

I called the dealer (Chuck, at The Sailboat Shop) in Austin, and told him what had happened. He told me to bring it in and he would look at it.
Later that day he called and said said that Hobie would replace it, free of charge!

Sweeeet!

THAT was four years ago. I have been careful with the replacement kayak, but it's had a LOT of use. Recently I noticed that I was taking on a fair amount of water, perhaps three or four gallons in four hours!

Last week I sat the yak on the driveway, put the garden hose in through one of the hatches and turned on the faucet.

It appeared immediately, a small leak had begun in the same spot. Now I don't know if it was a stress crack, or if it had just worn through, with the aid of the fine sand / mud that often gathered there.

Back to Chuck I went.
He emailed Hobie, so did I.

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My new kayak will be here next week, in bright yellow this time.
They have beefed up the troubled area, and even though my kayak was two years past their two year warranty, they stood by it anyway.

What a great company! Thank you HOBIE!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 4:00 pm 
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Simple plastic weld job - contact your dealer.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 4:16 pm 
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Jbernier wrote:
Simple plastic weld job - contact your dealer.

Hmm - that's a 6 hr drive away :shock:
There's a new one 1hr away. I'm actually about to go and see them.
I wonder if they can fix it for me :roll: Better give them a call :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:14 pm 
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I can't see how the drive would cause those holes. :?
Hope it's ready for our JB trip Mickey! :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:10 pm 
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stringy wrote:
I can't see how the drive would cause those holes. :?
Hope it's ready for our JB trip Mickey! :wink:

No - I agree. When I first saw it I thought I had gouged it but on
closer examination I can see it looks like the rotomolding.
I have contacted my closest dealer and sent them the photos so that they can take it up with Hobie.
They are very new dealers and have just completed two days training - including plastic welding.
The welder was arriving this morning at 10 am, however they weren't keen to have a go at repairing mine without having a bit of practice first.
I hope it's fixed before our trip too - don't fancy sinking offshore - or anywhere else for that matter :shock: :roll:
Strange thing is, I have never noticed it - the only reason I did was because I thought I'd take a look at my drive well as a result of this thread.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:39 pm 
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Hmmm,
If it was mine and I had to repair it I think I'd prefer the Scotchweld DP8010 solution. It would be a relatively straight forward bog up job as the access is good.
That way there is no chance of making it worse, as in the case of a welding slip-up! :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 12:48 pm 
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stringy wrote:
Hmmm,
If it was mine and I had to repair it I think I'd prefer the Scotchweld DP8010 solution. It would be a relatively straight forward bog up job as the access is good.
That way there is no chance of making it worse, as in the case of a welding slip-up! :wink:

Yes - if it's my problem to fix that's the method I'd use - and like you say, it's a straight forward bog up job and access is good.
Don't know much about plastic welding but when I got this response from jbernier I thought I should give it a try
Quote:
Simple plastic weld job - contact your dealer

My understanding is that if done correctly, it'll look and be as good as new.
If they stuff it up I go home with a new one - don't I :roll: :shock:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 5:02 pm 
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or... leave it alone. We are talking bubbles in the mold part line that don't even leak correct?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:08 pm 
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mmiller wrote:
or... leave it alone. We are talking bubbles in the mold part line that don't even leak correct?

Yes - as far as I can tell they don't leak. :roll:
Well I haven't sunk - yet :lol:
I'm just a bit concerned that the hull material must be quite thin as it is and thought it best fix it. :roll:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:12 pm 
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Mickey, put a light (flashlight?) inside of the hull in that area and from the outside compare the "bubbles" area with the surrounding area.

Good luck

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 8:09 pm 
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reconlon wrote:
Mickey, put a light (flashlight?) inside of the hull in that area and from the outside compare the "bubbles" area with the surrounding area.

Good luck

reconlon - good idea - will do 8) :wink:
Thanks :)

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