LOOSE RIVETS ON AKA KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY
Unfortunately my pictures have been removed by Image Shack.
It's been almost a year since I replaced my original 3/16th's stainless steel rivets on my aka knuckle assembly, with 1/4" aluminium structural rivets. Here's the follow up.
I noticed the knuckle joints were starting to get loose again so I decided that this time, I would remove the rivets and assemble everything back together again using 3M 5200. I hadn't used it in May because at that time (May 14th) it was till being discussed as to which way was better. I also (thought) that the knuckle joint was a separate part from the aka itself, and that if I ever needed to replace it, it would be better not to glue these two parts together.
The following day (May 15th) Matt M. wrote:
We created a kit for that.
81412001 AKA CASTING GLUE KIT - V2 AKAS
1 GLUE / 16 RIVETS (4 per AKA) $7.99 (USD / Spring 2012)
16 # 8010181 Rivet 3/16 x 1/4 grip length stainless
1 90 second cure epoxy
I had just done my repair the day before w/o any glue so I figured I'd have to see how it held up.
February 21, 2012.
Although the joints were loose this time, I found absolutely no corrosion or electrolysis inbetween the aka and knuckle joint, whereas last time (with the stainless steel rivets, there was quite a lot to clean up first).
Conclusion: Aluminum structural rivets are better in combination with epoxy or 3M-5200. Interestingly enough, after Matt's posting I replaced all the rivets on a friends TI using 5200 and his are still solid as a rock. I'm fairly confident now that this method is the right way to go. As a bonus, it comes in black now which blends in better too.