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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:22 pm 
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Halibut Hunter thank you very much. I usually make my own adaptations to my yak, but you, sir, are way ahead of me........I can learn a lot from you.

I hope you will be a resource I can come back to!!

Now I got to order some supplies and get to work.

Thanks again!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:20 pm 
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Location: Virginia - Pro Angler 14 owner since Feb 2010
Awesome mods Halibut Hunter! I'm inspired.

TDK

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:25 pm 
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Location: Santa Barbara, CA
GR8 Laker,
I used 3M Super 77 spray contact adhesive. No problems. Make sure you rough up surface with a medium fine sandpaper. Then clean well with a brake cleaner or other FAST evaporating degreaser. Rubbing alcohol works well too. Mask off areas you don't want glue and spray both the hatch surface and foam. Wait 10-15 minutes, then start working foam into hatch cover quickly. You have to really work it with your fingers or a rounded tool or roller to get it to conform to curves and all. When satisfied clamp hatch down over edge of compartment tightly for an hour or 2, even overnight if you want. When it's set you can trim with a sharp knife. The first few time you open it, it will be really snug. It will loosen up after the foam takes on a memory. Just make sure you have hatch completely covering seal when you close it and you're good to go. I've had absolutely no problems and the innards of my yak stay dry.


Last edited by Halibut hunter on Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:30 pm 
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Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Thanks for the compliments guys. I hope I've helped.
Tight lines and big fish to you all!
As soon as it stops raining and the wind stops blowing around here I hope to post some pics of some Calif. halibut! They may not be as big as the pacifics up north but they taste just as good! :D


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 7:24 am 
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Location: Michigan
For anyone who is interested in following Halibut hunter's technique with regard to the hatch trim seal, I just placed a call to order it and they said it was out of stock. They have to order it in rolls of 250' minimum and aren't willing to order any to fulfill my order of 10-12'. For those of you who plan on upgrading their hatch seals, please give them a call. Obviously, the more orders they receive the better the odds of them restocking the item. I've placed an order but it's basically on hold until they get enough demand for the item.
Again, here's the info:
Moore Industrial Hardware
1-800-543-1677
Item #7100-1/16C

Thanks!
GR8 Laker


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:47 am 
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Location: Michigan
Hey Gang, just a follow up to the previous post. I've since done a bit more research and found a similar product (if not the same). I found it through Trim-Lok inc., who also require a 250' minimum but directed me to a company by the name of Mcmaster Carr who is a distributer of their trim seal. I was told by the Trim-Lok rep. that they'll sell this seal in lengths as low as 10' (as confirmed by their web site).
I do have a question for Halibut Hunter! In the post "PA Safety Upgrade To Rod Storage Tubes" you indicated replacing the current 3/4" trim seal with 1 1/2". I'm guessing that is the overall depth as opposed to the tube diameter. The largest tube diameter I've found available is 1". Please let me know if this is the case. Your photos in this post look to be 1".
Here is the newfound info: http://www.mcmaster.com/#trim-seals/=6o73tc (style #1)
There are two options for 1" diameter bulb
1) Item #1120A191 Catalogue Pg 3438
2) Item #1120A361 Catalogue Pg 3438
McMaster-Carr Phone #(609)689-3415
PS. Other styles/possibilities can be seen on Catalogue Pg 3439
I hope this helps!

GR8 Laker


Last edited by GR8 Laker on Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:57 am 
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Trim-loc is the standard seal we use. We are looking at a secondary one with a longer rubber "weather strip" flap.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:29 am 
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why1504 wrote:
bartmandude wrote:
I assume 1/4" is the thickness (height) of the foam when applied flat. What width? 1/2"?


Bartman,

I haven't applied the foam to the inside of my forward hatch yet. I plan to cover the whole hatch to provide more insulation for when I use the hatch as an ice chest.


This is a great idea, but shouldn't you need to line the liner too? To be efficient? Just wondering.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:59 am 
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Location: Michigan
Without a doubt Thinwater skinner, I'm going for both! By using a larger diameter bulb I'm hoping that will raise the edge of the liner where it meets the underside of the front hatch. Combining that with a closed cell foam liner on the underside of the front hatch should create a better sealed, tighter enclosure. I can always add another layer (or ring) of closed cell foam where the two meet, if it is called for. Halibut Hunter used and tested the same method with successful results so I'm just following his lead.
I hope that answers your question. If you are referring to the insulating properties, I have enough closed cell foam to line the underside of the liner as well!
Thanks for pointing out anything that may have been overlooked!
GR8 Laker


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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 8:17 pm 
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GR8 laker,
Sorry, I've been gone for a while and just noticed your post. The hatch seal you inquired about is 1 1/2'" total heighth. Bulb is 3/4", trimlock is 3/4" x 1/16" wide lock gap.
Hope that helps.


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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 4:39 pm 
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Location: Michigan
Thanks and welcome back Halibut Hunter, I just placed the order today. Moore Ind. called me last week to tell me they were ready to process my back order even though they hadn't received enough orders to warrant buying a 250' roll. I'm looking forward to adding the trim seal/foam liner to my hatches and putting them to the test.
Thanks again for posting your seal upgrade ideas and techniques. I'm sure they'll add to my peace of mind while cruising the shores of Lake Superior.
Be well,
GR8 Laker


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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 11:06 am 
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Gr8 Laker,
Well, good luck and glad I could help! Moore Ind. Hardware must be feeling the economical pinch and figuring a little $ coming in is better than none! Some of these outfits need to remember that it's us, the little guys, that sometimes keep em afloat! Glad they came around for you. It should be getting close to time for your trip. Take lots of pics! Remember, no tall tales of the lunker that you forgot to take a pic of :lol: :D


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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 4:14 pm 
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Location: Michigan
Thanks, Halibut Hunter, I have definitely noticed a more consumer conscious attitude from many businesses over the past 6 months or so. It's about time, eh? Nice to see some positive changes arising from tough times!
I'm still roughly 2 months from my planned departure so I've got some time to check and re-check for thoroughness. I'll be sure to take many photos and look forward to sharing them on the forum soon after I return.

Cheers,
GR8 Laker

PS No tall tales, I promise! If there's no picture of it.... it never took place!


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 5:32 pm 
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GR8 Laker wrote:
Thanks, Halibut Hunter, I have definitely noticed a more consumer conscious attitude from many businesses over the past 6 months or so. It's about time, eh? Nice to see some positive changes arising from tough times!
I'm still roughly 2 months from my planned departure so I've got some time to check and re-check for thoroughness. I'll be sure to take many photos and look forward to sharing them on the forum soon after I return.

Cheers,
GR8 Laker

PS No tall tales, I promise! If there's no picture of it.... it never took place!



Yeah sure! I have Adobe photo-shop also. Works great, makes 'em look HUUUUUGE! :lol: :D :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:48 pm 
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GR8 Laker, before your trip, might I make another suggestion. As I have found out the hard way (read my new post under "Crack in the drive well) I'm going to be installing a 12v bilge pump of about 500Gph similar to this Aussie's set up: http://www.akff.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=32456
Good Luck and have a ball!


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