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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 8:01 pm 
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I know that the party line is that the through hull transducer mounting causes very little degradation of the signal, but I have been convinced otherwise. Does anyone know of an install on the P.A. which goes straight to the water, like the scupper hole transducers available on another brand of kayaks.
thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:41 pm 
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I did come up with mounting the transducer on a dial using a scupper hole. It worked fine but no better than thoough the hull. I went back to through the hull using a 3 inch clean out head and cap glued to the bottom inside of the boat, I full it with water. works just fine and allows me to change fish finders when I wish. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:18 pm 
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Thanks, I paid for my new moss color p.a. today, and since my three weeks off start on tuesday and the hobie dealer offered to intall it for free, I just went with the through hull tranducer anyway. I may upgrade in time for my next three weeks off, next December, but I guess I need some concrete evidence to back up whatever "upgrade" that is. I would hate to go through all that trouble for the same picture.
opie


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 1:04 am 
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Location: Pensacola Florida
I use Mad Frog gear mount. totally removeable and you can adjust shooting off to both sides and move it outboard.
Imageaction=view&current=Gregtoy1-2.jpg]Image[/url][/url]

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:56 pm 
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Thanks Sammy, I thought you had to make things like that custom, that thing is going on my Christmas list. Hopefully Santa has 40 bucks left in the Christmas fund.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 7:01 pm 
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Location: Pensacola Florida
there is a lil customizing to it. I'll send to ya when you need with close up pics

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:06 pm 
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Location: Dallas
Hey Opie, congrats on your new PA. Your gonna love it. I know you have already made a decision for now on your FF mount but here is a partial quote from a similar discussion I posted on another board. Just for your entertainment.

Best of luck and Tight Lines, Phill

"
Shooting through the hull can have vastly different effects depending on the installation. Properly done ( at least on the dozen or so I have done) it meets or beats a simple in water installation. There are many manufacturers and types of hull materials I have never been exposed to and am sure there are some I would not get as good a result with.

Since I wrongly considered the plastic hull to be a significant barrier to the returning sonar, I figured a way to compensate for it.

I made a classic "dam" as most would to pour the epoxy into out of closed cell foam. I made the side walls of my dam about 2" thick. I then cut the walls back at a 50-60 degree angle tapered toward the hull so that the epoxy would be a much larger surface area where it contacted the hull and have a condenser effect collecting sound from a larger surface area and sending back to the transducer surface. It worked ok but not great, for a while. Then when I finally started manually adjusting my sensitivity I found that I had great performance at about 50% sensitivity. I was getting an artificially stronger "read" than just in water. Since I owned several similar units, I took an extra identical transducer with me to try them side by side. My suspicion was confirmed. When I hooked up to the transducer on the portable mount I had to crank the sensitivity back up to get the same readings. Over 1000 miles and 2 years of fishing in my Outback later, the transduce popped loose from the interior of my Outback after sliding over a log at high speed. The epoxy was well fixed to the transducer. I sanded the the flared sides of the epoxy down to near vertical , sanded the bottom to where there was minimum thickness and reinstalled the transducer with just the minimum epoxy. Now I can set the FF on auto and it works great.

I would not use anything but epoxy for the attachment. I know some use silicone and even Vaseline, but I have strong reserves about them. No experience, just doubts.

I am in the process right now of installing a Hummingbird 997 si on my Pro Angler and it is an interesting project. The side-imaging transducer must be free from the hull with a clear shot to both sides including the surface. I have found two acceptible solutions and may even get to try both of them over the next couple of weeks.

The first and simplest is to simply drill a piece of material (nylon/teflon/delrin etc.) with a hole the same size as the back hand rail (or front if your are not afraid of running into something with the 'ducer) of the boat.

Split the piece and make holes to re-assemble it around the handle. You will probably have to shim the two halves to keep them free moving.

Attach a plate to the end of your new " bearing" to mount a rod or plate to mount the transducer to.

A couple of lines to it will allow you to raise and lower the transducer with a couple of pull strings much like the early rudders worked.

A second, slightly more costly, but way cooler looking install is to simply spend $50 on a new twist and stow rudder assemble like on the Outback and modify as required to mount front or rear.
replace the rudder with a thin plate of aluminum and mount your transducer to it. You still need to accommodate the control wires for the assembly but that is simple enough depending on your specific needs. When retracted, it lays down on your deck instead of flipping vertical.

For my personal 997 I have finally decided on a rear mount for the side scanning transducer because it will be more stable, in cleaner water following the hull, and protected from the dozens of stumps I hit every year. I use it more like surveying than trying to find something by driving over the top of it. After all, most of what I see will be a hundred or more feet to each side.

Not wanting to have my down looking signal reporting what was already behind me, I put a splitter in my transducer line and am using a through hull puck type transducer in the front of the boat just in front of the mast step.
"


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:47 pm 
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Carver,
That is an awesome post.

Thanks,

Opie


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 4:38 pm 
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side scan will not work unless you maintain 3-5 nots speed.told to me by the hummingbird rep . Ihave the same unit

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 10:28 am 
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Location: Dallas
Side scan will work at any steady speed with a loss of detail at faster speeds.. I have had it on my Hobies for over a year.

I suspect you had a new HB rep or he misunderstood the question. Data gets coarse for detail use at anything OVER 3 mph. 2-3 mph is the ideal cruising speed for side imaging if you are wanting detail or assembling registered3-d maps for models later.


Phill


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 8:46 am 
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I am also using one of Mad Frog's transducer arms mounted on a Liberator mount from them. works really well, no holes had to be drilled anywhere.
I also have a Humminbird side scan FF that I use on my Gregor aluminum boat. I use a Humminbird 788ci on the kayak. just my opinion but I think the side scan is over rated for what it costs. I would not pay the extra money to buy another one.
Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:55 am 
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More food for thought - I have had no issues with my shoot throught the hull transducer on my PA. Data feed to my HDS5 is just as good if not better than in my Stratos Bass Boat / Fiberglass Hull that I also have shoot through the hull transducers mounted.

Ultimately it is your choice on your mount...but I do like the way I have my PA rigged with the Battery in the hull behind the main storage insert and all the wires run up through the hull and my HDS5 mounted forward off on the hand rails. This also allows me easy access in and out of the PA and to hang my feet over the side during those hot summer months.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:28 pm 
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Attavus i spoke with hummingbird and the side imaging doesnt work thr the hull. They said it must be in the water and have a clear path left and right of the tranducer. you might want to exstend you liberator down where it clears the hull and you might get better results. hummingbird is comming out with down imaging for 2011 and it can be in the hull.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 8:14 pm 
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gotcha wrote:
Attavus i spoke with hummingbird and the side imaging doesnt work thr the hull. They said it must be in the water and have a clear path left and right of the tranducer. you might want to exstend you liberator down where it clears the hull and you might get better results. hummingbird is comming out with down imaging for 2011 and it can be in the hull.


I don't use the side scan FF on the kayak, it is only used on my aluminum boat. I use the 788ci on my kayak. side scan can presently be changed to down scan for humminbird's FF's with a download. information is readily available on humminbird's website.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 9:36 pm 
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I have an Eagle Cuda FF with the transducer mounted inside the standard Hobie foam cutout using marine Goop. This through-the-hull install has not worked out real well for me. I was reading on the NorCal forum about just pushing the transducer inside a hollow pool noodle which is vertically glued to the inside hull. You fill the noodle with water before heading out, and the water acts as the acoustic coupler. The advantage is porability for your FF (nothing glued in place) and no interference from bubbles that may form in the goop with time. The disadvantage is that you have to keep the noodle "sump" full of water while out fishing. Sounds similar to what Bobalford said he is using. Anybody else using a simple inside-hull water imersion mount? If so, how well does it work? Any better or worse than a mor permanent goop mount/


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