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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:40 am 
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Location: Nashville, TN
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I just retook some pictures if anyone else would like to see more just let me know.


Last edited by MidTNKayakAngler on Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:45 am 
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Location: Rogers, AR
Hey j...
I was wondering why you put the yak's on back end first?
I just finished putting my Trailex (single) trailer together and the boat goes on nose first...and I used the PA cradles.
Your trailer is really high too. I don't imagine you intended to back it into the water, right?
I have had mine in the water once since completing the installation. Had to readjust the rear roller guide. I am also thinking I may need to move the boat about 18 inches back, as the tongue weight seems a little heavy.
Let us know how it works...I am sure there are going to be a lot more of us buying and using PA's.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:54 pm 
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Location: Nashville, TN
I put the rear on 1st because that is where the majority of the weight is and I like towing with more weight on the tounge.

The height of the kayaks are waist height when they are on the trailer. The trailer sits almost perfectly level when connected to the truck.

We went out this morning for a couple hours and loading and unloading was a cinch compared to putting one on top of the truck, and one in the bed.

My wife bent her Mirage Drive fin mast's today she was really upset. She was traveling in about 5ft of water and saw nothing ahead of her and just a thud and jolt. I think I can bend them back. She stayed out for another hour after bending the masts and she reported no trouble with the operation, but the masts did go through the fins.

I was operating in less than 2ft of water fine, but I was also using the fluttering technique.

The trailer tracked fine to and from the lake 6 miles each way, and the bearings didn't heat up which I was wondering if they would.

We are storing the PA's on the trailer. The saddles cradle the hull really well and give a lot of support. I'm keeping an eye for any warping and all looks good so far.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:19 am 
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Location: Rogers, AR
All good information J.
I have operated my PA on shoals in a local river, and was very careful. But, you just can't see everything can you. You wouldn't think 5 feet of water would be a problem..


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:58 pm 
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Well I got the masts bent back to their normal position. It took less than 5 minutes and we were on the water by 8am this morning, and stayed until 1pm. Her Mirage Drive held up well after the minor repairs/adjustment. We’ve logged in about 25-30hrs on the PA's so far and no regrets. I know I want to build a drag anchor, a stake out pole, get a FF, 2 RAM mount rod holders, and LED lighting for work area and warning.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:33 am 
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looks nice, should be easy to load and off load too! I would be worried about some idiot running into the PA's since they stick out so far from the lights and end of the trailer, especially in the dark.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:12 am 
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I'll show you what I've done with my trailer just to protect the hull until I can figure out which saddles will give me the support I need. I did cause a small indentation because of the narrow bars on this particular trailer. With the temporary saddles, the weight is spread much better but it's an important issue. My trailer is set up a little high too compared to many but it's not been an issue. I'm considering lowering it a foot or so. I do like the capability to see the tops of the "stern" by looking out my mirrors. I keep an Outback and PA on the trailer now. Image If anyone's aware of saddle's that will work with this trailer, I'd like to hear about it.

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Yakkingaway
Portsmouth, VA


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:09 am 
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I really like my saddles. They are called Euro-Saddles. They cradle our PA's so that they sit about 1" above the metal bars, so no metal on plastic. I've thought about lowering our kayaks, but my plan is to put a dry box under the kayaks for the paddles, anchors, stake out poles, and life jackets.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 10:22 am 
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I noticed those and wondered what they were. But I don't see them connecting quite the same way on the different cross bars. Especially the one's that the Trailex has on it. I'd not want to order them and have to screw them up too bad trying to fit them. Thanks for the name though. It'll give me another contact to inquire. I also have room for a box under the kayaks and that's the main reason I haven't dropped the crossbars yet.

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Portsmouth, VA


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:35 am 
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Nice, but I would add a three foot extension on the tongue of that trailer. Helps the balance of the yaks and the ball. Just a thought. Good luck with that good looking rig.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:33 pm 
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I just updated my pictures if anyone else would like to see more just let me know.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:33 am 
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Location: Grantham, NH
Very Nice Job

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http://www.aldenofsunapee.com/
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:27 pm 
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Location: Rogers, AR
What a neat rigging...I think the pole on the side is probably a stake out pole, right? Where did you get it? Cost?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:29 pm 
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Location: Rogers, AR
btw...are the camera's remote controlled? Show us some pic's from on the water. My boat is out of the water for the time being...as it is colder than a well diggers....well you know, here..NW ARkansas.
Thinking of going to south south TX to find warm water to fish in.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 10:04 am 
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Location: Nashville, TN
Response to Ron:

The pole located on the right side of the Pro Angler is a stake out pole I made. It's 1" PVC SCH 40 7' long. I bought an 8ft section cut it to 7'. Sharpened one end and the other end glued a 1" T. Placed a galvanized 1/2" X 7' pipe in the middle for support and weight. After placing the galvanized pipe in the PVC I took a masonry screw and drilled through the T handle so the galvanized pipe wouldn't move freely. Then I took an Epoxy and shoved into the sharpened end and molded to a point also to prevent mud and debris from clogging up the PVC. The pole works great, and have even used it to free an anchor from submerged rocks.

The camera isn't remote controlled but it easily swivels.

It is made from 1/2 SCH40 approx 40" PVC with a cap. I took the cap and drilled a hole through the top, and then took a 1/4" SS bolt and tightened down with the threaded end sticking upward and measured how far the camera needed to thread on to ensure not to damage the camera. After everything was completed I used a metallic black spray paint and gave it 6 or 7 coats.

The camera mount ended up being a Christmas present for my wife. We plan on taking a lot of pictures and video when we can get back on the water. Since it hasn't been above freezing here for over a week.

Cost of makeshift Stake Out Pole less than $15
Cost of makeshift Camera Mount less than $15
Cost of makeshift Visi Pole less than $20

EDIT: Once we get back on the water we will have a lot more pictures, but being in Tennessee it might be a few more weeks.


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