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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:14 am 
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Location: San Diego
1. I am looking to make some changes to my rudder on the PA. More of a siling type rudder- longer. Does anyone know what type of material the rudder is made out of? ABS?

2. Had my PA now for 5 months and have been fishing it 3 times a week in the ocean and the steering system is not holding up very well-clunky. The rudder is clear of the boat when it turns and is lubed. The control knob is checked and lubed as well. Even with weekly maintance/lube, the steering is not smooth.

Does anyone know if the steering upgrade will be offered as a comp to 2010 PA owners.

If not how much is it?

Does it solve the sloppy/chunky steering issue?

I really think the PA is the best fishing platform for us kayakers. I covered at least 10 miles off shore in my boat on Sunday alone. I have covered 15 miles three weeks ago and caught my first big yellowtail - 24lbs. This is a fishing machine! Last Friday I caught a 26 pounder................

I have converted 3 of my friends to Hobie because of the amount of fish I catch.

Thanks

Steve
San Diego PA Insanity


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:04 pm 
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I think the upgrade will be treated like the turbo fins for other kayak models in the past "An option you pay for"


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:14 am 
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Location: San Diego
Yeah but I have a new pro angler with a poorly working steering system. Have others had this problem as well? Were you able to correct it?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:31 pm 
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I think the design on the underside will be the area that will need to be changed to get rid of the "chunkey" feeling. The rudder blade is placed with a short cut/bite angle to the water and the underside design.

There has been an upgrade to the steering drum to help with the quick overadjusting of the steering. This upgrade is free when requested. It has helped with the over steering, but not the chunkey part.

Maybe Matt will be back and answering questions real soon.. he should know better then I do... Good luck.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:13 pm 
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Location: Michigan
Sandydiego,
It sounds to me as though you're experiencing friction caused by crossed steering lines. Another possibility could be too much tension caused by over tightening the steering tension knob located under the steering mechanism. A third possibility might be in the routing of the steering lines as they come through the hull behind the seat and then run to the connecting point. Check for tight bends that might cause extra friction.
A good way to test this is to remove the seat, disconnect the steering mechanism from the seat and try moving the steering knob back and forth. Try to keep the line straight between your hand and the point from which it emerges from the hull. If the steering still feels "sloppy/chunkey", then the possible causes mentioned above can be ruled out. If it operates more smoothly, you've narrowed it down.
Good luck and I hope this ends up being helpful. Let us know if you find the problem!

GR8 Laker

PS. I ran my line directly under the seat, nestled in the center groove. From there it only requires a mild bend to attach to the connecting point. The steering did need to be re-centered after using this routing method.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:44 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
See your dealer for adjustement if needed. The system has been working well since the change to the larger drum last year and a change in the spectra line.

The rudder blade is not changed.

The 2011 system will not be a free upgrade. This is more about moving the control handle to a different position. There is to be a kit which will allow this position and a left or right steering option.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 12:31 pm 
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Location: San Diego
After struggling with the chunky steering I managed to get it almost perfect. The binding was happening in two parts of the steering system.

1. In the inside steering cup. This needs a retro fit with a set of nylon or non binding sleaves that drop in the cup area and are not going to bind.

2. The inlets on the steering control (tiny wheels the lines run on) and rudder line outlet were grindy. No sand, but I think it's caused by the spectra braid. I kept the tension on the lines light and loose and still had the same feel. I pulled the cover off the rudder area to check this out.

The fix was to take a silicone lubricating compound and put some in the cup, the in and out areas of the spectra, and into the rudder shaft. I pushed in quite a bit in the line feeds and the problem of the grinding just about disappeared. The rear lines out should get a small wheel feed as well.

I think I need to work for Hobie!

So I'm in the Steve Moyer Tournament tomorrow and I will see how it holds up. I did the fix this morning.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 2:49 pm 
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Cool! Want a job?

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 3:16 pm 
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Location: San Diego
mmiller wrote:
Cool! Want a job?


I would love to work for Hobie on their fishing kayaks. Is there a position?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:05 am 
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sandydiego wrote:
After struggling with the chunky steering I managed to get it almost perfect. The binding was happening in two parts of the steering system.

1. In the inside steering cup. This needs a retro fit with a set of nylon or non binding sleaves that drop in the cup area and are not going to bind.

2. The inlets on the steering control (tiny wheels the lines run on) and rudder line outlet were grindy. No sand, but I think it's caused by the spectra braid. I kept the tension on the lines light and loose and still had the same feel. I pulled the cover off the rudder area to check this out.

The fix was to take a silicone lubricating compound and put some in the cup, the in and out areas of the spectra, and into the rudder shaft. I pushed in quite a bit in the line feeds and the problem of the grinding just about disappeared. The rear lines out should get a small wheel feed as well.

I think I need to work for Hobie!

So I'm in the Steve Moyer Tournament tomorrow and I will see how it holds up. I did the fix this morning.


How did the Tournament go? I signed up, but ended up working a cash O/T until the wee hours of the morning....no way I could have made it!

I upgraded my seals. Thanks for the tip. However, I still take on about a gallon of water. Less than before, but a ton more than in my Revo. I was out in LJ yesterday, not too much surf 1-2 with an occasional 3 in there for good measures. Getting out/in was a breeze...just peddled straight through. Took a couple to the chest, but the PA just plowed through. The water has to still be coming through the front hatch since nearly everything in the compartment was wet, even stuff that was stacked on top of stuff. Any other suggestions?

Personally, when fishing LJ, I would rather take my Revo for entry and landing. With the PA, instead of going up and over the surf, you tend to go through it - sometimes swamping the boat. The Revo is just a whole different animal.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 7:56 am 
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My PA has been having steering problems for a while now. The housing is not "sealing" and the string keeps popping out rubbing on the plastic edge where the housing collars meet. I have it back at the local dealer hoping we can get a permanent fix. Regardless, huge Hobie fan,but not at all impressed with the steering system on the original PA's. From day 1 it has been clunky. It also has caused me 3 breakages on the water, lots of missed fishing time and plenty of frustration.

Combo that with a serious handle issue on the front of the PA, I have not had good luck thus far. Don't get me wrong, LOVE the PA overall design, but have had some issues. Maybe that's what I get for buying an older demo model outside of my local dealer (who has been very helpful despite me not purchasing it from him).


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:06 pm 
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does anyone know when the steering upgrade kit will be available ? I HAVE BEEN HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:41 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Soon... Parts should arrive here in about a week. Dealers should have access to them within a week or so after that if everything lines up.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 2:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 5:41 am
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Location: Täby, Sweden
wahoousma,
I also got everything wet in the fore compartment. Please see the link. It may be worth checking.
viewtopic.php?f=75&t=30171

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Bo Karlberg
Taby
Sweden
Sail Tandem Island No P1787 in the Stockholm Archipelago (some 40,000 islands and rocks)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 2:20 pm 
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Location: San Diego
wahoousma wrote:
How did the Tournament go? I signed up, but ended up working a cash O/T until the wee hours of the morning....no way I could have made it!

I upgraded my seals. Thanks for the tip. However, I still take on about a gallon of water. Less than before, but a ton more than in my Revo. I was out in LJ yesterday, not too much surf 1-2 with an occasional 3 in there for good measures. Getting out/in was a breeze...just peddled straight through. Took a couple to the chest, but the PA just plowed through. The water has to still be coming through the front hatch since nearly everything in the compartment was wet, even stuff that was stacked on top of stuff. Any other suggestions?

Personally, when fishing LJ, I would rather take my Revo for entry and landing. With the PA, instead of going up and over the surf, you tend to go through it - sometimes swamping the boat. The Revo is just a whole different animal.


Hi Roger,

The tournament was a lot of fun. We raised 11K form the event. Eric pulled in second place! I hookedup and blew the timing on getting my drag set. Rookie move.

I was at Fastlane sailing and they have a new 2011 PA on display. Hobie put the bigger seal in the bow hatch. I think that your hatch might not be sitting down tight or the rod holders are leaking into the front. Take your hose and open the hatch and spray water into the rod holder tubes in the front and see if you get a leak in the bow. I'm thinking of removing the rod holder tubes and putting a blockoff plate over the hole for blue water action. When we go to the lake I put it back in. Maybe.......

See you on the water.

Steve


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