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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:00 pm 
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Location: Rogers, AR
I thought I read several months ago that Hobie was coming out with a modification that was going to allow we'uns with the pre 2011 PA"s with the old style rudder control to modify them to the new style. Was anything ever said or done about that Mr. Miller?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 10:33 pm 
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The new parts catalog has the pedestal the 2011's have the steering control mounted on for about $90.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 11:33 am 
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I'd be real interested in hearing from someone who has installed this mod. Seems like the "guts" of the system is still basically just one drum rotating another like a pulley-loop system. Since the old and new hand controls apparently have about the same arc of rotation, I don't understand what's different under the deck to account for improved tracking.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:58 pm 
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The big differences are reduced system friction and better ergonomic position of the handle. The smoother action helps to reduce over-steering which is the real problem.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 7:41 pm 
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Location: High Point, NC
Try what you have first before deciding you must have the "upgrade." Now that I've had the opportunity to use both, I wouldn't trade my standard 2010 steering for the newer 2011 for $1000. I like being able to lie my hand on the seat edge as I steer. And oversteering is a function of the person doing the steering, not the mechanism. I don't care for the new system at all. Very glad I bought a 2010 PA.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:06 am 
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Location: Long Island, NY
-Another 2010 PA owner here. No problems with the steering here either. The position is fine for me, and while the steering is sensitive, I got used to it quickly. I found the steering to be a bit stiff at first, but after dismantling the drum and adding a little lube now it"s almost too silky-smooth.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:15 pm 
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A friend sent me this link for a detailed report of the retrofit install.
http://www.kayakfishingmagazine.net/art ... rade-.html
This helps explain how the newer system has less friction and this probably accounts for the smoother steering. This description looks more complete than the one that ships with the kit, so it may be worth bookmarking for anyone who is going to do this mod.

Jim


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:25 pm 
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Q#1) Is it possible to reverse the handle so that it points backwards? It appears that two rod holders are sacrificed by this upgrade.

Q#2) Is it feasible to install the steering column 2-3 inches back via a spacer block? This would also allow more space for the rod ends.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 10:47 am 
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Location: Northfield NJ
You could reverse the steering handle very easy and you could also use spacer blocks to move control back a bit there is nothing in the way,but it might be a tougher spot to reach in for the backing block and locknuts to be held in place.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 3:20 pm 
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Thanks!

That excellent article mentions the right-hand cable must
be routed between certain scupper tubes on its way to the
tiller. Moving the tiller rearward changes the routing of that
right-hand cable. The cable may interfere with a scupper
tube if moved rearward by a few inches. You may have to
move the tiller rearward a lot to find a clear route. I guess
the only way to know is buying the kit and experiment.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:37 am 
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I've just install the conversion kit.

The problem I found is that as the two ropes don't have the same path ( right is longer than left ), it works fine turning left but when turning right the left rope is so strained I can't go on maximum.

Did I miss something?

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François - French fishing team - Pro Angler Dune


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 10:25 am 
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I found the solution :

Image

Now it works.

I don't understand why Hobie staff didn't see this problem...

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François - French fishing team - Pro Angler Dune


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:33 pm 
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Location: Northfield NJ
Hi Francois,
Great idea on the steering line path,it also helps with storage under the 8" hatch


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:42 pm 
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Felvic:

Maybe I don't understand your post, but is seems like your alternate routing solution actually lengthens the right steering line. Per the Pythagorean theorem, the length of two legs of a right triangle must be longer than the hypotenuse (which is the original Hobie route).

Also, your route seems to run both lines though one pulley at L2/R3; and, that the two lines will move in opposite directions during steering, which could cause friction and fray the steering line.

Again, maybe I’m just not seeing your solution from your perspective, but I’m not sure this is a good solution in the long run.

Mr. Miller: Any input here from the hobie tech squad?

Cheers!
Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:08 pm 
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Felvic -
I am also confused by your problem and proposed solution. I don't see any double pulleys or reverse-direction lines for mechanical advantage in the new routing. That being the case, it seems to me that rotating 1-inch of rope over a single pulley will draw in one end of the rope by an amount equal to the increased length at the other end of the rope, regardless of the routing in between. Otherwise, you would be creating or destroying rope! So I cannot imagine how the routing between the tiller handle and the rudder drum has any bearing on the extent of rotation in one direction vs the other. Maybe I am not understanding the problem. If I understand the revised drawing of your solution, you have moved the tiller handle to the lid of the center hatch? That seems like a big sacrifice of storage space for the problem you describe.


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