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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:11 pm 
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Jim:
I think that desination point at the center hatch is also shown on the hobie drawing. Per the install instructions, you connect the line ends to the control rod at the hatch, then move it to the final install position - if I understand the thread correctly.

Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:32 pm 
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Excuse me I forgot to say I put two trolleys on R3:

Image

Quote:
is seems like your alternate routing solution actually lengthens the right steering line. Per the Pythagorean theorem, the length of two legs of a right triangle must be longer than the hypotenuse (which is the original Hobie route)

Troutnodoubt you're wrong. The rope can be one mile long, go thru 50 trolleys, it will slide the same amount of inches.

But if you have a rope going straight with no angle (to L2) and the other with 10/20° angle (to R2) like in the initial conversion kit, your right rope have 1/4 inch more path and it doesn't work...

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Last edited by felvic on Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:43 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:40 pm 
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TroutNoDoubt wrote:
Mr. Miller: Any input here from the hobie tech squad?


FYI... I do not keep up with all forum topics, especially as the season here in North America gets busy.

But, I did see these posts and have requested that the engineers review the instructions and suggested changes. I am have no experience with this one.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:50 pm 
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Quote:
you have moved the tiller handle to the lid of the center hatch? That seems like a big sacrifice of storage space for the problem you describe.


No It's just to explain how to get the ropes easyly.

The handle doesn't move, it stay at the same place.

I have a pdf file to explain but I don't know how to post it...

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:00 am 
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Flevic: Thanks for the additional info and pic.

Matt: I appreciate you passing the question on to the Hobie tech gods.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:17 am 
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Felvic:

I was looking at your latest picture more closely and have two questions:

1. The added, smaller pully has no enclosure to ensure that the line stays on the pulley. Are you concerned about possible steering failure from the line slipping off the pulley?

2. It looks like the white rope is rubbbing against the hull. Could this cause a potential problem - rope fraying, etc. Seems a little disappointing that the steering lines are not fully encased in plastic tubing as on the original steering.

So far, I'm not that bugged by the old-school steering on my boat and not that impressed with the new steering system. I'll stick with what I have.

Cheers!
Bob


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:25 am 
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TroutNoDoubt wrote:
1. The added, smaller pully has no enclosure to ensure that the line stays on the pulley. Are you concerned about possible steering failure from the line slipping off the pulley?


No there is an enclosure.
TroutNoDoubt wrote:
2. It looks like the white rope is rubbing against the hull. Could this cause a potential problem - rope fraying, etc. Seems a little disappointing that the steering lines are not fully encased in plastic tubing as on the original steering.

So far, I'm not that bugged by the old-school steering on my boat and not that impressed with the new steering system. I'll stick with what I have.


The rope just touch tightly the hull, no problem. It's better to don't have anymore the ropes encased, it's easier to slide.

I encourage you to change, it is really better.

I have a new idea for another path, I will post it later....

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:13 pm 
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OK. Thanks for the clarification. I look forward to your other alternate routing path.

Bob


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 6:18 am 
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I tried a another path, it works well:
Image

I cannot use this path because I have some stuff behind the central hatch...

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François - French fishing team - Pro Angler Dune ---> Outback 2015 dune


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:06 pm 
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Ok. Thanks. I appreciate you sharing your experience.

How did you attach the second pulley/trolley at L2 in the first alternate route.

I guess I still don't understand what causes the alternate routes to be better than the original Hobie routing. I'd still like to hear from Hobie on this issue. Perhaps I'll just have to get the kit and try it for myself.

Thanks again,

Bob


Last edited by TroutNoDoubt on Sat Apr 02, 2011 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 3:02 pm 
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Quote:
How did you att attache the secont pulley/trolley at L2 in the first alternate route.

like this:

Image

Quote:
I guess I still don't understand what causes the alternate routes to be better than the original Hobie routing. I'd still like to here from Hobie on this issue.


Because if you do like Hobie say, your right rope have a path longer than the left rope and when you turn right it doesn't work...

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 3:20 pm 
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Routing both cables near the port side appears
to have two advantages...

#1) The tiller mount can be moved stern-ward
without the right-hand rope rubbing a scupper
tube.

#2) More space under the seat is clear for storage
for additional flotation foam.

However after fishing today, I suspect that just
installing the handle backwards will place the tiller
in an adequate location for me. I am also less
concerned about sacrificing rod carriers with the
handle backwards. The tiller shouldn't hit the
butt of a rod with the handle backwards. I only
use the inner and outer rod carriers anyway.

I see no advantage to the second alternate
routing. Adding a third pulley increases friction,
although this is negligible. But I'd rather not
drill the extra holes for the extra pulley.

> Because if you do like Hobie say, your right
> rope have a path longer than the left rope
> and when you turn right it doesn't work...

That makes no sense to me.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 5:13 pm 
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François:

I take it that you replaced the stock Hobie pulley with a double pulley (?).

I agree with HsvToolFool that the longer path of the port line in the stock Hobie routing doesn't make sense to me as the cuase of your steering problem. But, you obviously have some first hand experience with it.

Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:30 am 
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HsvToolFool wrote:
Routing both cables near the port side appears
to have two advantages...

#1) The tiller mount can be moved stern-ward
without the right-hand rope rubbing a scupper
tube.

#2) More space under the seat is clear for storage
for additional flotation foam.

However after fishing today, I suspect that just
installing the handle backwards will place the tiller
in an adequate location for me. I am also less
concerned about sacrificing rod carriers with the
handle backwards. The tiller shouldn't hit the
butt of a rod with the handle backwards. I only
use the inner and outer rod carriers anyway.


I don't use rods tubes as well. This is how I arrange all:

Image

Quote:
> Because if you do like Hobie say, your right
> rope have a path longer than the left rope
> and when you turn right it doesn't work...

That makes no sense to me.


It has a sense. The left rope is straigh to the trolley, with 0° angle.
the right rope has about 15/20° angle.

When you turn right your left rope is strained and his path is 3 inches (that's an example ).
When you turn left, your right rope is strained and his path is 3 1/3 inches.

So you have 2 solutions:

1/ You strain the two ropes when the tiller is middle and when you turn left your left rope is so strained you cannot reach the abutment.

2/ you make it going on the abutment but when the tiller is middle, the ropes are laxity and the rudder go where it wants...

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:48 am 
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Okay, I think I understand your point. The rope
*angles* relative to the tiller bar can limit the
travel...

Image

The idealized tiller range (left diagram) produces the
same rotational range for both sides.

If an angle difference is introduced (right diagram)
on one side, the rotational range for that side is limited.

Is this what you meant?


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