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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
augaug wrote:
Trailex says...Triton Trailers says...
And it's up to the customer to decide which answer makes the most sense. :)
It's hard to know what to do when you have two "experts" saying the opposite thing! In a case like that it's best to go to a higher source, the tire manufacturers.

Goodyear publishes a load inflation table for their ST and LT trailer tires. They list pressures down to 15 PSI for reduced loads.

Trailex also gets their PSI information from their tire manufacturer.

Greenball and Carlisle publish no such inflation data and therefore have no official recommendations other than what the label says. However, both reps conceded that somewhat less than full pressure would "probably be OK" subject to common sense.

My own (non-expert) opinion is that the pneumatic tire is part of the suspension system. Why revert back to the solid rubber days by making it hard as a rock? Having operated vehicles and equipment with rated tire pressures from 8 PSI to 400 PSI , tire pressure always seemed highly correlated with load supported.

SkiPro makes a good point with his truck tires. Vehicle recommendations depend on application, not not max ratings (which are set by the tire industry for safety reasons). So while the opinion expressed by Triton Trailers' is appreciated and respected with regard to their trailers, I otherwise concur with Trailex (and SkiPro). 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 7:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:29 am
Posts: 421
Go with what the trailer manufacterer says for tire pressure...........but I would also recommend monitoring the tire and wheel hub temperature. You can get a inexpensive infra-red thermometer to keep tabs on the tire and hub temps.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 7:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 04, 2010 5:55 am
Posts: 111
Location: Cary, NC
As a Trailex SUT-200 owner for the past 2 years, I have never had any issues with the tires or the trailer for that matter. Travel over all different types of roads to get to my fishing holes. Crossing over railroad tracks, unpaved roads and very rocky terrain.

Anyone that fishes Shearon-Harris, knows exactly what I am talking about.

When I purchased the trailer…I did my own due diligence and researched the tire pressure, as I too was not sure I read or understood the recommendations. Did my own testing and feel pretty comfortable with my findings. When I increased the tire pressure, the trailer did not bounce all over the place like a basketball…but did in fact have an extra bounce when hitting a bigger bump or raised object in the road. Tested again with less pressure and it seemed to react much better.

Even had a friend follow me on the way to the lake one day, making sure this little trailer was not all over the place.

I always make it a point to check the tires, bearing buddies and lights the night before a trip. Also carry 2 spares and an air compressor just in case. Not paranoid…just never want to miss a tournament because of a malfunction. So try to be prepared.

I am in no way a tire expert, trailer expert, Hobie or Trailex salesman…nor do I play one on this site.

Just a guy that has a passion to get out on the water and enjoy Mother Nature, as much as possible.

Safe travels and good fishing folks...no matter how you get your ride there! ; )


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 1:55 am
Posts: 57
Location: Boise, ID
SkiPro3 wrote:
Quote:
Tritontrailers wrote;
One note with the tires. The tire should be inflated to the MAX PSI listed on the side wall of the tire! This is where it needs to be regardless of load because this is where all the strength of the tire is and carries the load the best. Anything less and you open yourself to the tires possibly loosing the seal on the rim (blowout), bad tire wear (outside edges burn out faster), and damaging the rims. Even though you guys are not talking much weight here, it still is the shock factor of hitting potholes, railroad tracks and/or other road hazards you need to watch for.


That is not true. Tires are not designed to be inflated to their MAX PSI listed on the side wall for all uses. That MAX PSI is for the MAX LOAD, just like it says on the sidewall. If that were true, then go read the sidewall on the tires of your car, then read the tire pressure on the inside jam of the driver side door of your car. Which is right? The car manufacturer is right, that's who. How could any tire manufacturer know how that tire is going to be deployed?


Not to be a wise acre or anything but wouldn't the same logic go for the vehicle manufacturer? To modify your quote just a bit..."How could any [vehicle] manufacturer know [what kind of tire is going to be used?] :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:53 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:34 pm
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Tires and pressures are all subjective.


Last edited by SkiPro3 on Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 1:55 am
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Location: Boise, ID
:) Hey dude...we're talkin kayaks and maybe an ice chest with some cold ones...it's all good--8", 12"...Let's go fish. :D

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 2:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 07, 2012 2:12 pm
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After reading all the posts here, i was a little apprehensive about interstate speeds with my trailex SUT-200. I traveled from Virginia Beach to Hilton Head, SC. The trip down, i stopped every 2 hours and checked the trailer and the hubs and they were not even warm!! No issues for over 800 miles at 70+ mph!!


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 6:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:27 pm
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I have the same set up. I don't think there is a better way to store it than on the craddles on the trailer.


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