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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:23 pm
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I recently bought a jet ski trailer that Im converting to a Kayak carrier.
It has carpeted boards but I don't think they will fit in the 2 slots underneath the kayak very well.
If i replace it with PVC will that hold up to being mounted to a trailer? Will it damage the boat?
What size pipe should I use? Do i put end caps on? Sorry for all the questions!
1st time Kayak purchaser waiting on delivery!
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 10:03 am 
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This worked for me.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:30 am 
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Location: Malta
Bake252...

Is that trailer aluminium?

Even if its not, could you let me know the size and thickness of the of the box section used please...and while you have the tape measure out, the length of the long single section on the front. Then the width of the rear section if you could please my good man.

If you can, a simple sketch of the trailer with a few measurements on it, you would be doing me a HUGE favour.

Regards,

Mike

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:34 pm 
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They are steel not aluminum. I didn't use this exact model, I used Harbor Freight item number 90153. http://t.harborfreight.com/automotive-m ... 90153.html

I picked this trailer because it was less expensive and came with 12" wheels instead of the 8" wheels. I went to a local store that sells metal and purchased a 3"X3" piece of square tubing about 10' long to extend the tongue. That was painted black and bolted in place of the short original tongue. It was cheap to build and was a fun project. If anyone is interested I can post some pictures or a video of it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 4:26 pm 
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Yes it will hold up. I would use the thick walled PVC. I would use 6 " PVC with caps if you will use them for rod storage so you can get your hands in them. I used 4" and it's hard to get your hands in them.

Some people recommend smaller piping because it flexes. The flexing makes me feel uncomfortable riding Down the road with a loaded yak in the winter but that's just me. Never heard of one breaking but I mounted mine on boards just to be safe.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 9:28 pm 
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I used Schedule 40, 2 7/8" OD PVC pipes for my PA-14 and if you drill 7/16" holes, use 1/4 x 20 SS bolts + Nylock nuts with fender washers on the ID of the pipe and fender washers on the underside of the cross bars, the pipe will flex and not break......it conforms quite nicely to the shape of the PA hull when the cross bars are placed about 67" on center....No need to torque down the Nylock nuts as they allow for some movement without coming loose.....this is a picture of my PA-14 taken April 1 on Lost Lake with my modified Hobie/Trailex trailer. No problem with breaking in cold weather...the PVC is very durable if you use Schedule 40.

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 6:25 am 
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Location: Lake Park, GA
I used 3 inch PVC on a dual jet ski trailer and have had zero issues carrying either kayak. While I can back this trailer into the water, I have yet to do that. I just back up on the ramp and slide the PAs backwards to offload. If it's a spot where I have to use the carts, I just slide the PAs back a little to insert the carts.

The rear strap pictured is just for my subdivision trips. I have added additional D-Ring tie downs and use a heavier strap for each PA for long distance trips and especially long rough dirt road travels.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:46 am
Posts: 173
all kinda ways to do it...

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:11 pm
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Here's one for two PA14s stacked Image


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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