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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Gales Ferry Connecticut
Thinwater skinner, I agree, that's why I rigged the conduit piping running from the back of my cab to the Bed Extender bar. (like the trailer rigs) This eliminated the flexing stress.

Additionally I make sure nothing is stored in the bow of the yak.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:18 pm
Posts: 97
The PA14 is around 14" long. If you have a 6 to 7' bed over half of the PA will stick out the back. Although this may work for hauling short distances I would be leery driving 75 mph down the highway with a 20+ mph side wind! If you hit any giant bumps or turn quickly you may have problems without an extender. I hauled mine with a tailgate extender on my shortbed dodge on a 5,000 mile road trip last fall with no problems. The extenders are only about $60 w/coupon at Harbor Freight! A $2,500+ PA may be worth the $60 investment?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:14 pm
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Location: Gales Ferry Connecticut
I agree agree agree that a bed extender is needed to haul a PA 14. I too have a 6'6" bed. What I have done is take 10 foot long PVC Electrical conduit spaced to fit my hull (about 11 inches) I tied them together. Using a14 inch long 2X4 (attach with stove bolts, nuts and flat washers. The end hanging over the bed extender, attach the 2X4 to the lower side of the pipes. Tie it to the bed extender. At the cab end of the box pipes attach in the same manner except attach the 2X4 to the top side of the pipes. (This won't touch the hull because for the curve upwards at the stern.
Load the PA14 into the bed bed on top of the BOX pipes(Stern the to the back of the cab). Tie your kayak down to your truck. (This will hold the PVC Pipes inplace)
The purpose of the pipes is to provide support to the hull.
Additionally I insure my bow is empty.

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