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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 4:27 pm 
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Almost there. Used my bandsaw to cut mirage-drive outline out of a 2x4. Drilled 1" hole for the Watersnake ASP shaft and 1/2" hole for the mirage pin. Surprisingly, nailed the dimensions on the first try.

Still needs to be painted with few layers of paint - to waterproof the wood. I got treated wood, but still. Some adhesive to seal up the shaft (plug it first to avoid getting goo into the motor innards, JIC). Epoxy in the pin. Outside of the looks, she looks to be 100% functional. No rattle that I can detect.

I removed the top of the motor and chopped the shaft down to may be 14". Careful not to cut the wires.

All that is left is to make a control box (I am reusing the 2 switches that came with the motor) - I want it close to the seat.

The motor is Watersnake ASP, google it.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 9:49 pm 
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If you hit something submerged your going to have a high risk of cracking your hull....i would guess.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 12:09 am 
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No more so than with the Evolve.

CC

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:40 am 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Before you go any further, put the propeller back on and try to fit it into the Mirage well of your Hobie. I've made one similar to yours, and the tolerances are pretty tight. (I think the shaft on your version may not be long enough, but mine doesn't rotate like yours appears to.)

Cheers,
Graeme


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:28 am 
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The prop must be a two bladed kind?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 8:05 am 
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Folx,

we're talking professional grade here :) . Of course I tried it, in and out of the Mirage hole, with prop on :) And of course I made sure the prop clears the hull in every way possible, I left about 6" sticking out - so I get the motor to go even deeper. Not sure if you'd want to have so it is 2-3" below the hull or deeper than that and for what reason ? Efficiency ?

Removed it for safety, it is made out of hard thin plastic, 2 blades. May be 7" OD.

Just like Evolve, it requires use of a plastic wedge (think thin wide plastic ruler) to orient the prop vertical, so it clears the hole when you're about to take it out.

Just like with my Mirage drive, I am careful to remove it before I beach, otherwise the bets are off. The boat doesn't move fast enough to cause hard damage. I betcha Evolve owners are very protective of their units too :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 12:39 pm 
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I think it's a great job you have done, and look forward to seeing pics of the completed project.
Well done!!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:36 am 
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For an additional $24 you can get a cartridge plug and do this. I foam filled it and added a half inch aluminum rod through the holes that hold the little plastic nubs that fit in the Mirage clips. I would suggest the 24 pound thrust ASP. The plastic prop has been replaced with an aluminum one. Every time I inserted or removed the motor the extremely thin edges of the original prop would get bent. The power comes from a 40 amp hour Lithium Ion battery that weighs 13 pounds.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 3:59 pm 
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Anything larger than a 24 pound thrust unit is no good? Whats wrong with a 36 or higher, does the 24 run long enough?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 4:54 pm 
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Funny, I also wanted to fill the plastic plug with foam and do it the same way. I like how mine came out, took her for a spin past weekend. I chopped down the original shaft and moved the top control head next to the seat. Thanks for the advice on 24lb version, the 18 pounder's propeller does feel rather weak.

I went about 6 miles, mild breeze, the trusty charger at home told me I still had 30% of the battery left. The power sonic 35ah fits right under the plastic bin in the front compartment, pure bliss. 60 bux.

Did look into lithium batteries, was too much for my frugal acres. The battery I got weighs 20lb. Not too bad.


As to the motor size - it is more about it fitting thorough the mirage drive hole than about thrust. If you can find 40 pounder that would fit, go for it. Except in order to move that fast your would need a real beefy battery. I wanted mine way out of the way, in the hull. If you re OK having it sit on the deck - say in the rear, you can probably have 100lb battery in there. Just don't expect to be able to right the kayak, you d want to mount it so it self ejects when kayak flips.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 4:17 pm 
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Mine after 10 miles or so. Love it....

You can see a cable along with a waterproof connector, galvanized steel handle, Mirage pin and a "set-screw" of sorts, that fixes the motor's shaft so it doesn't rotate/move.

To the right is the control head of the motor. I removed the bottom half and replaced it with some plastic. It now rests in the RH "well" - between the Hobie seat and the side of the yak, right under me right hand.

I left about 6" of the shaft sticking out of the mirage "insert" - to avoid exposing the top of the shaft to water immersion. I sealed it good, but decided against cutting it flush with insert.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:31 pm 
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What did you do to prevent the motor from pivoting around in the plug?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 3:11 am 
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
AllElectricPA14
Where did you get your aluminum prop?!
I recently bought and returned the Watersnake 24 that came with a cheesy plastic egg-beater thingy.
I found out later that you can modify the MINN KOTA PROPELLER PROP 2031151 MKP-1 1378111 (on ebay for $12 plus s/h) or here: http://www.fishlectronics.com/minn-kota-propeller-prop-2031151-mkp-1-1378111/


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:17 am 
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Location: Columbia, MD
Beat me to it.

Yep, the Minn Kota MKP-1 will fit, but you have to trim about 1/4" off the back of the hub. I made a jig by drilling a hole for the shaft pin thru a 5/16" bolt & added a wingnut to tighten. Chuck it in a drill and use a hacksaw to cut. If you have a real shop you could use a band or table saw. You have to use the Watersnake nut or get a M8x1.0 nut.

The MKP-1 is MUCH stouter than the Watersnake prop. It's also 6-3/4" so it's larger too. I haven't used it yet so not sure if it gives any extra thrust or speed.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:38 am 
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Location: Columbia, MD
I'm a little concerned about the aluminum props in the event they make hull contact. No experience here, but it seems like the plastic props are less likely to damage hull plastic than aluminum would be.

Anyone with any real-world experience to share?


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