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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 9:11 am 
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Hey guys!

I'm the proud new owner of a Hobie PA 14! I've seen some neat ideas from folks who have used the Harbor Freight trailers and I'm looking to do something like that with their boat trailer. (Shown here: http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-cap ... -5002.html)

My goal is to mount the Hobie Cradles on this trailer. That way when I'm done, I can leave the boat on the trailer and have it properly stored. (This is why I want to do this over the PVC bunks.)

So the challenge I'm running into is the front portion. I want to mount a cradle perpendicular to the trailer tongue in the front. (Is that what it's called?)

Here's a visual on what I mean...(Sorry for my poor paint skills)

Image

The area in black is what I'm talking about.
In theory this seems like a decent idea right? Problem is I can't figure out what I should attach perpendicular on that tongue bar to mount the cradles on. Should I use a 2x6 piece of wood and throw a couple u-bolts through it? Could I use a single piece of UniStrut and mount the cradles to that?

I want to make sure whatever I mount, that it doesn't interfere with the cradles (Protruding bolts, screws, etc)

The goal is to almost make it look like those Trailex trailers. Just has a piece for the cradles to sit on in the front.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:16 pm 
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Rubbe Duckie,

I bought the exact same trailer. Truth be told, it was a lot cheaper back in April when I purchased it. Out the door including a 25% off coupon you can find online, it cost me $199. I did add a front wheel which I think was under $25 which makes it easy to roll around in the garage after detaching it from my truck.

Here is a great video from Venture Tube on YouTube of my exact setup with pvc instead of the Hobie cradles. I did glue bunk carpeting to the top of the pvc just to be sure the pvc wouldn't scratch the pa. I have no problems storing the yak on the trailer with the pvc as long as I loosen the tie down straps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gOONSVjTEU&list=UUwUABfeVHoeKZwffCiHJYCw

You might also want to search Youtube for MOFishYaker as he has some good vids as well.

Good luck.

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KansasYaker
2014 - Pro Angler - 14 - Upgraded H-Rail Kit


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:26 pm 
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Also forgot to mention that the pvc seemed the more logical way to go for me since almost the entire length of the pa14 is supported rather than just a couple of points with the cradles. That's just my opinion though.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 12:54 am 
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Thank you for the feedback!

Yeah I'm weighing the options for sure. I do like how the PVC is more secure, but I have a set of cradles, and maybe I can slip them under when the boat isn't in use. (I'm really anal about proper storage of all my yaks)

One thing I couldn't find is the PVC tube type (Diameter, length) and spacing between the tubes to fit the PA. I'm still searching but I didn't see anything mentioned by Mofishyaker. (Maybe I haven't looked hard enough)

Do you by chance have those specs?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 1:18 am 
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Thanks for the feedback! (Also sorry if this is a dupe post, I think the forums ate my last one)

Yeah I've considered the PVC bunks, and honestly....I may end up doing that. I really wanted to make the cradles work because I'm really anal on how I store all my kayaks, but maybe when not in use, I can slip the cradles under the Kayak and just have them rest on something that isn't the PVC tube.

I'm doing some research into the PVC stuff now. Looks like that's what most folks do anyway. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:47 am 
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uni-strut + PVC pipes and you are done. You figure out how to connect best.
Total cost is about $40.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 5:14 pm 
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I actually got the trailer today so I'm starting the build now. Haven't gotten to the PVC yet.

I do wonder though if you could mount the cradles ON the PVC after the bunks are made....Might be something I experiment with once it's all done.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 5:41 pm 
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As far as what size pvc to use, I used 3" and initially spaced them 10" on center. You'll want to leave them a little loose at first and then set your PA on top of them. Leaving them loose at first will allow them to settle into a natural position under your yak. Then carefully lift the yak off and then tighten them down. Just doing a quick measurement now in a poorly lit garage, the spacing is about 10" on center at the front and 10.5" aft.

Jeff

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2014 - Pro Angler - 14 - Upgraded H-Rail Kit


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:40 pm 
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Thanks Jeff,

Going to try and get things built here in a day or two. (The cold snowy weather is setting me back a bit)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:28 pm 
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I used the cradles >I used a 2x6 and mounted that to trailer then put cradles on 2x6 been that way 3+years cradles are starting to break on edges . I don't think its from impact just cracking,The bottom of kayak does get scratched pretty good with these .I load it from the back of trailer and slide it in so maybe that is reason for scratches and edge cracking. Only other way I see for loading it on to trailer is picking it up and dropping into cradles .I am considering changing over to PVC pipe ! I think if it loads easier it may be a better choice and cheeper.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 2:19 pm 
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I'm hopefully going to get to the PVC tomorrow, but I'm going to see if I can get the best of both worlds and use the PVC for support with the cradles on top. May not work well but I'll see. That way when you slide it off, it will reduce scratching. (In theory anyway...)

The PVC should also hopefully add some suspension to the system with the flex it has. That might help reduce cracking on the cradles too.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 5:55 pm 
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After using the cradles,putting PVC on the bottom I don't think is a good idea .I think it would be to much stress on the pipe and not enough support. The cradles are very sturdy under the kayak but need to be mounted rigid so it holds kayak tight.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 11:39 am 
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Well I got the PVC bunks mounted and lined up. What's odd is mine measured out to around 8 1/2 inches inside length, which is more narrow than everyone else talks about. But the PVC lines up with the grooves of the scupper holes...So I guess all is good?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 12:12 pm 
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rubber_duckie_ Just to be clear, when people talk about the PVC spacing distance, they mean center to center and not inside edge to inside edge.
For a PA-14, using 3" schedule 40 PVC parallel pipes, the center to center spacing is about 12" ......once installed the inside edge to inside edge is around 8.5" as you noted.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 1:06 pm 
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Ahh that makes sense. Yeah everything seems to line up well this week. Rather happy witht he PVC solution. Adds a bit of flex that I otherwise would not have had.


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