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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:46 pm 
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I have a trailex and I am debating between the PA cradles or a DIY PVC rack. Price is not an issue but want to hear pros and cons before tackling either project. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:44 pm 
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Location: Lake Park, GA
InlandYaker52 wrote:
I have a trailex and I am debating between the PA cradles or a DIY PVC rack. Price is not an issue but want to hear pros and cons before tackling either project. Thanks.

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There are Hobie cradles that fit the PA hull very well. You can find some pictures on the forum of those. I use the PVC pipes in the 3 inch size. I used them when I made the storage racks in the garage as like folks say, they will flex slightly and conform to the 2 ridge lines on the bottom of the hole where the scuppers line up. So when I picked up the new trailer, I re-used the same 2 sets of PVC on the trailer.

If you use the PVC on a trailer, be sure to round the edges on the ends with a sander so there are no sharp edges. Some folks even glue carpet to the PVC. I might eventually do that as well. If I do not put the trailer in the water, I just set the front of the PA on the back and the walk around and lift the stern. It slides on with ease and is lower than the tailgate height.

Good luck with your project. Post some pictures when it's completed.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:58 pm 
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Hey Steve, what seat do you like better since you have both?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:10 pm 
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SRAces wrote:
InlandYaker52 wrote:
I have a trailex and I am debating between the PA cradles or a DIY PVC rack. Price is not an issue but want to hear pros and cons before tackling either project. Thanks.

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There are Hobie cradles that fit the PA hull very well. You can find some pictures on the forum of those. I use the PVC pipes in the 3 inch size. I used them when I made the storage racks in the garage as like folks say, they will flex slightly and conform to the 2 ridge lines on the bottom of the hole where the scuppers line up. So when I picked up the new trailer, I re-used the same 2 sets of PVC on the trailer.

If you use the PVC on a trailer, be sure to round the edges on the ends with a sander so there are no sharp edges. Some folks even glue carpet to the PVC. I might eventually do that as well. If I do not put the trailer in the water, I just set the front of the PA on the back and the walk around and lift the stern. It slides on with ease and is lower than the tailgate height.

Good luck with your project. Post some pictures when it's completed.

Image


Could you provide an image of how your horizontal beam is attached to your trailer? What did you use for the beam?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:20 pm 
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Location: Lake Park, GA
wolfewiz wrote:
Hey Steve, what seat do you like better since you have both?


For getting in/out of the PA in shallow water I like the older seat as you can just back up to the side and sit down to get in. You can also swing your legs over the side easier for getting out. With the new seat you climb in the PA and climb out.

Which would I choose based on seat only? The Vantage seat as it is more flexible because of the seat adjustments and the ease of installing/uninstalling. It's lighter to carry as well and is usable as a chair on the shore if needed.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:40 pm 
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InlandYaker52 wrote:

Could you provide an image of how your horizontal beam is attached to your trailer? What did you use for the beam?

Thanks


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I just used some scrape wood I had and cut the 4 pieces to the same length. I ended up spraying the wood with a Rustoleum product similar to that "FlexSeal" spray you see on TV for waterproofing. I mounted the wood to the existing mounts that the regular bed rails were attached to with stainless steel 3/8 bolts, washers and nylon nuts.

Since I used my existing PVC pipe, I put the pipe on the boards and the sat the PA on the pipes to line everything up. Then I drilled through the bottom of the boards/hinge points to make the holes for the stainless bolts that hold the PVC to the wood. Hand screwed the bolts in. Then I took the PA off and drilled an access hole on the PVC over each bolt so I could put a washer on the bolt and tighten the nylon nut down with a socket. I drilled a 1 inch hole on the top of the PVC with a hole saw.

Repeated the process for the second PA. Here are a few pictures...

Image

Image

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:17 am 
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That is awesome! Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:32 am 
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dontcha just LOVE PVC! Picked up my PA yesterday, got a small trailer standing by... this looks awesome and I really like the DIY approach.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:13 am 
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Where did you get your trailer made and if you don't mind saying how much was it?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 10:09 pm 
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Here is what I decided. I modified my Trailex trailer with the PVC mod. ImageImage


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:48 am 
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I know I saw it somewhere but can't locate it now could someone tell me what the center spacing is for the PVC pipe for a 2013 PA? Do you use schedule 40 pipe or the lighter sewer and drain?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 8:10 pm 
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Location: Cape Fear region, NC
I just built mine a couple days ago and I believe I put them at 10 1/2" and they seem to work fine. I am leaving them a little loose so they can find their own 'home'. I used the 3" schedule 40 pipe and then covered them with some gray i/o carpet, seems to slide very nicely, we'll see how she is to load on a sloped ramp.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 8:56 pm 
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I did something similar to islandyakre52, but used 11 degree couplers and a aft cross board to support the 3" pvc pipes.
Image

I need to take an update photo of my PA14 on the trailer....I removed the trailer lights and remounted them to a 2 x 2 board I "U clamped" to the rear grab rail....a simple 18" trailer wiring pig tail extended the wiring and now the lights are much higher on the road.....I just unplug the lights and remove the "light bar" prior to launching my PA....so far I have never needed to get the trailer wheels in the water for launch or recovery of my PA14.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:03 pm 
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Sit your PA on the pvc pipe unattached. Let it sit for couple days and let it settle. Then measure the distance between your pipes where you attach to trailer. Once you get those measurements you will be good to go!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:24 pm 
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Here is a photo of what I did to modify the location of the Trailex factory lights.
I always felt the original location would lead to damage and they are really too low to be easily seen by traffic behind me.
It's quick/easy to remove the "light bar" and then place it in the back of my car.....easy to reinstall after my PA14 is back on the trailer.

Image

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