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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 10:24 am 
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Been reading all over various boards and whatnot and there is no commonality between designs/ideas, etc.
So I figured I'd try my own ask here and see what you guys think...

If you're going to transport/store a PA14 on a trailer, what do you think is the best PVC size (diameter and length)?

I've read 2" conduit is a good choice, since it conforms to the shape of the hull, however I've also read anything under 3" will result in cracked pipe - which would stink if you were traveling 70 MPH down the road.

So, what's your opinion? If you were building your trailer from scratch, what would you use?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:13 am 
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Location: Lake Park, GA
I used 3 inch PVC with an 8 foot length. I store the PAs on the trailer with no issues. The rough distance between the PVC was about 11 inches from center to center.

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Steve Stubbs
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2012 Pro Angler 14 (owned now by a good friend)
2013 Pro Angler 14 - Dune
2015 Pro Angler 14 - Papaya


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 2:29 pm 
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I was using a garage rack with 2" PVC and it noticeably bowed to the shape of the hull, but has never even looked close to cracking. However now I'm about to mount PVC on a trailer and I'm using 3". In comparing the two I noticed two differences. First the 3" is a thicker walled material so it should hold up fine, though it might not bow as much or conform to the hull shape as well. Second I also noticed the 3" seems to fit the contours a little "fuller" because of the larger diameter and I think that would give the boat more support and spread the load across the PVC better, reducing the likelihood of a crack or break. To me the 3" is the better choice.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 9:01 am 
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Well fudge.
I just set up my 2" PVC conduit (Better UV protection) on the trailer. Just a slight bow - which is what I want - to help maintain the shape of the hull. Gonna watch it over next few weeks of use/trailering to see how it does. So far so good.

PS The Malone MicroSport trailer is a great little hauler if you're thinking about getting a trailer for your PA. Fits two side by side like it was meant to be and tows like a dream.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 12:39 pm 
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Location: Houston Texas
If your runner mounts aren't that far apart like the ones pictured above i would suspect either would do fine and not crack. With the runner supports being that close together you aren't going to get enough sag to conform to the bottom of the boat anyway with 2" as you would on a large storage cart where they rest far enough apart to create enough sag to contour to the bottom of the boat.
I figure you will be just fine with 2". PVC is pretty strong stuff. It would take a hell of an impact to break a 2" PVC runner. I don't see it happening with a kayak on top especially with the supports that close together. You are fine...


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 5:19 am 
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Went with 2" and have it all set. I put them on the trailer and set the yaks on for a couple days to mark holes first. Not much of a sag but enough to where I'm comfortable there won't be any more hull warping.

Trailers like a dream.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 5:54 am 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
We don't have a PA, our boat is a TI (which is way heavier). I ended up using 1 1/4" pvc two pieces ten ft long mounted on around 11 inch centers. It's been on there a couple years now with no breakage but there was some bending. In retrospect should have used 2" Pvc. If it ever wears out I will definately replace with 1 1/2 or 2" PVC. Some pointers on my setup that really worked out well for us. We add a 9" wide roller (actually a paint roller mounted on 1 1/4 pvc with simple home made angle aluminum mounting brackets mounted to the rear cross bar of the trailer). The roller really makes it easy to get boat on trailer.
We left the PVC hang out about a foot past the back of the trailer, this really helps keep the boat aligned when there is a side wind at the launch.
I'm usually pretty exhausted when I come back in so I added a $25 dollar winch to the trailer. I pull the boat halfway up, attach the winch then crank the rest of the way up (really saves my back especially on steep boat launches). Once on the trailer I always pull away from the ramp to level ground then I break everything down and strap down in the parking lot (works really well for us).
Because our PVC ended up a little small and was bending a little, I went out and bought two cheap wood broom sticks and shoved them onto the PVC from the back, problem solved. Next Time I will be using 2" minimum PVC.
Hope this helps
Bob
Edit: the reason we used 1 1/4" PVC was so I could slide 6 cheap paint rollers over the PVC bunks to act as linear bearings for sliding the boat on and off the trailer. The cloth painting rollers work like linear bearings and prevent the bottom of the hull from scratching, and the boat glides much easier on the bunks. Great idea, would I do it again next time (probably not, heck with the bottom of the boat it gets all scratched anyway no matter what you do (lol)).


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 11:39 am 
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" slide 6 cheap paint rollers over the PVC bunks to act as linear bearings for sliding the boat on and off the trailer"

That sounds freakin BRILLIANT.

Can you post a pic of your setup?


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