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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 4:18 pm 
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Probably been covered in numerous forums but I can't seem to find it. For any PA owners who built a trailer what size PVC did you use for the bunks?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 4:38 pm 
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SFD LT wrote:
Probably been covered in numerous forums but I can't seem to find it. For any PA owners who built a trailer what size PVC did you use for the bunks?


3 inch for me. Some folks used 4 inch.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:11 pm 
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2-inch fits the hull scupper trough the best.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:03 pm 
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I have found 3" to work the best. Never tried 2" but it may be just as good if not better. I personally thought 4" was too big.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:04 pm 
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I used the 3" for mine also. Seems to be taking a beating on the load up just great.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:30 pm 
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I used 4" mainly because I could get my hand inside to tighten the "U" bolts. No problems after several years.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:39 pm 
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3" for me. I tried the 2" for my PA but it did not get it high enough to keep from hitting the trailer cross bars, really depends on the trailer. I'd suggest he gray electrical conduit as it's UV resistant, the white is not and will turn brittle over time.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 7:43 pm 
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Location: Lower Burrell, Pa
I personally use 2 1/2 inches PVC schedule 40 I think I am not going to move up to three. will post some photos of how I did my trailer little bit later. Tight lines, Frank

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:37 pm 
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2" schedule 40 is what I used on both the trailers I have rigged and I had plenty of clearance. That being said, I think any of them will work. What I would advise, though, is only to attach the PVC on the ends. Let the middle spread so the entire boat is supported only by the PVC. Another recommendation is to sand the back ends so they don't scratch the boat as it slides off when launching and recovering. I know some guys put caps on and it looks like that would keep the scratches from happening, but I haven't tried it.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 8:33 pm 
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Thank you Gentlemen for your quick answers to my question. I have a pair of saddles specifically for the PA but they don't look to support the kayak like the full length support of the PVC.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 10:49 pm 
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2" for me


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 7:38 am 
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Baron2744 wrote:
2" schedule 40 is what I used on both the trailers I have rigged and I had plenty of clearance. That being said, I think any of them will work. What I would advise, though, is only to attach the PVC on the ends. Let the middle spread so the entire boat is supported only by the PVC. Another recommendation is to sand the back ends so they don't scratch the boat as it slides off when launching and recovering. I know some guys put caps on and it looks like that would keep the scratches from happening, but I haven't tried it.


When I introduced this idea to the folks here on this forum - this is exactly what I specified. The mid portion of the pipe must be able to spread, float, conform, etc., to the hull troughs. That's the whole point of using the flexible pipe.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 5:35 pm 
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I k n ow this is an old thread but what should I go with 2" or 3 "


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 5:57 pm 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
Pvc pipe is so cheap, I would just buy both and try them both out. Either will work fine, I'm pretty sure it's a personal preference based on your exact setup (clearances, etc). I have a TI so mine is a little different situation, but I used 1 1/4 pvc on purpose so if the boat sags, it rests on the trailer bed at the low spots, this may not apply to the PA.
FE


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:31 pm 
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I used 3" white schedule 40 as my trailer is kept in the garage.


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