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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 12:39 pm 
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I recently purchased a double jet ski trailer to modify for my two 14' pro anglers and will be using 3" pvc pipe for the runners, what should the width be on the pipe and does it matter how long they are? I know the pipe can be too long and not hurt anything but what would a safe minimum length be?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 4:14 pm 
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How do you plan to attach the 3"PVC pipe - direct to the trailer cross members? How you plan to attach might dictate what length is best. As for the width, mine is ~ 12" center to center. If you search the forum you'll see lots of discussion on pic's for different set-ups. I used the grey elec-conduit PVC - (supposed to be more UV resistant). I used combination of 2x4+PVC tube which does not run full length, mine is 94". I used a bolt at ends of the 2x4 to secure the PVC tube. This allows the PVC to flex in the middle to match the scupper troughs of the PA. Have fun!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:06 am 
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Location: Lafayette, LA
First, lay the full length pipes on your trailer, but don't attach them yet. Then, put the boat on them. Measure and cut the pipes long enough that the entire boat is supported, plus a little extra. 7' or so will work for the PA-14s. I used 8' on my double jet ski trailer because that distance worked for the cross beam supports, and my trailer doubles as a utility trailer with a plywood floor.

Once you have the length determined and cut, again lay the pipes unattached on the trailer and put the boat back on them. The width between the PVC tubes is determined by the size of the PVC, and the type of boat you are putting on them. Most boats have a different width between the front and rear, and the length of the pipes will also figure into how far apart they have to be. Move the entire rig around until you have it sitting exactly where you want it insuring adequate fender clearance, then mark the boards under the PVC with a Marks a Lot. Just make sure the boat is sitting securely on the PVC. Some say to let it sit for a while before marking. Once you have the marks, remove the boat and mount the PVC pipes securely on each end, but not in the middle because the boat is wider there and will spread the pipes. How you mount them is determined by your preference and how they are attached to what is under them. Regardless of how you mount them, be sure to check often to insure the nuts or lag screws haven't loosened from road vibrations.

Repeat the process for the other boat. You will also want to bevel the rear of the pipes so they don't scratch the boat as it goes on and off the trailer.

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Lafayette, LA

Finally Retired, Fish Beware!

2013 Hobie Pro Angler 14
2012 Hobie Pro Angler 12
2001 Hobie Hank Parker Edition Outback


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:39 pm 
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One thing I did read on here somewhere was to leave the bolts loose with lock nuts so that the boat could conform to the pipe better, but I do like the idea of not putting a bolt in the middle.
Thanks for all the help.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 3:34 pm 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEc5_pf9VIA

Our PVC setup on a new trailer. We've got a PA 12 and a PA 14 and they ride like a dream at 60 mph, they are also a snap to put on and off the trailer.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 8:45 am 
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Image

slightly different idea, I used SS lag bolts to mount my PVC bunks. Used a stepdown bit to open hole big enough to get socket thru.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:58 am 
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I used 4" PVC covered in bunk carpet so I could use them for rod etc storage and I used strap mounts to mount them to boards that run the length. I would use 6" next time because 4" is too small to get youe hand in easily. I know others say this is to big but it rides fine on it and gives lots of support and flexes a little and has added storage.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:42 pm 
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Location: Born & raised in NOLA, but Dwell in Abilene, Tx
Here is the dual jet ski trailer I just finished. Might help give you ideas for yours.
http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com/foru ... 3&t=219043

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