Trailer Question

Thanks for the reply Dr.SteelheadCatcher; I like the idea of the carpet strip as well.

I am somewhat challenged when it comes to using a tape measure and decimal points or fractions... I set my PA up on the trailer in the position I wanted, lifted up one side and slid the PVC into the channel and on top of bunks, did same on other side. Got everything adjusted as to just how I wanted it, cut four jigs out of starboard scrap (you can also go to the dollar store and by cheap plastic cutting board). I cut a half circle out of top of the starboard same diameter as the PVC, clamped them in place and ran two SS screws thru each one and into the cross pieces (my cross pieces are obviously wood). Marked the PVC with a Sharpie fwd and rear of jigs, pulled the PA off, set everything back together, aligned the marks with the jigs and used a hole saw (NOT a spade bit) to drill holes in top of PVC. Hole saw gives cleaner cut and diameter gives you enough room to use a socket wrench. Drilled smaller holes in bottom of PVC for SS lag bolts and screwed them in with said socket wrench.

thanks Redsinthehead, appreciate the picture. I've read about others concerned about the sharp entry of the PVC when loading the PA. I'm definitely using the chamfered leading edge idea.

The trailer in question for me is a Malone Mico-sport I purchased from ACK. The raised bunks of the Malone would have me backing down the ramp so far it would require the use of my F-250. Instead, I will use the Uni-Strut components to get the boat low enough to use my Honda Civic. I've been using the Civic, but have also off loaded then carted the boat to the water, defeating part of the reason I got the trailer. It looks like I'll be able to use pre-drilled holes in the back of the Malone frame rails to mount the Uni-Strut and use a U-bolt to mount the front piece. I should get this finished this week and will attempt to publish a photo of the finished project.

Thanks for the help folks, Bill

I used 10' 2 1/2" sed. 40 con on 10 1/2" center weld on u strut to trailer

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HERO'S DON'T WEAR CAPES THEY WEAR DOG TAGS

I used 10' 2 1/2" sed. 40 con on 10 1/2" center weld on u strut to trailer

_________________



HERO'S DON'T WEAR CAPES THEY WEAR DOG TAGS

I used 10' 2 1/2" sed. 40 con on 10 1/2" center weld on u strut to trailer

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HERO'S DON'T WEAR CAPES THEY WEAR DOG TAGS

Nice set-up bassadude.
I visited the local Home D store y'day and picked up almost all my parts.
Cut and temp installed both the front and rear Uni-Struts.
Interestingly, the Uni-Strut just happens to be the same measurements as the Malone uprights. I have not had to drill one hole
and I can use all of the Malone fixtures and U-bolts to do the assembly; don't see how this could be easier.
Temp installed because of two reasons. Most important; forgot to get the galvanizing paint and second I intend to die-grind
all of the sharp corners on the supports.
Of possible interest to Malone trailer owners; I contacted their technical dept. who gave me the part number 1980A for the correct Bearing Buddies.

About an hour ago, I finished my Harbor Freight trailer with the 3" PVC, for my late 2103 Pro Angler 12. I built it from VentureTubes YouTube video... with the Unistrut supports. It's really nice and he credits "Mofishyaker" on YouTube for the idea. I recommend you check out the videos.
I made some minor changes due to having a PA12, not a PA14 like VentureTube.
I cut the overall length of the 3" PVC to 9 feet. It seemed like the distance between the centers of the PVC is 12.5"
The PVC overhang from the rear Unistrut is 15". The distance between the Hobie's front grab handle (resting on the black rubber roller) to the coupler is 33". I also rotated the bracket that holds the roller, so the grab handle rests "in" it.
I was concerned about the wiring, so I ran all the wires inside the frame. I used wire nuts for all the wire splices... I thought the supplied HF connectors for the sidelights looked too flimsy. I sealed all the connections with "Liquid Rubber" stuff.
I had a 25% HF coupon, so with NJ state tax, and only $6.99 (six dollars & ninety nine cents) shipping costs plus Unistrut, PVC, additional u-bolts and registration/license plate, the whole thing was under $400.

I hope I got this right... this is the URL for the YouTube video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gOONSVjTEU&feature=player_detailpage&list=TLy3ELej06REsmguuqw4oiFCbeZrA1MwET

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Cheers,
Bob, NINCO1

"A wet bird never flies at night"