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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:55 pm
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I recently sold my outfitter and purchased a PA14 along with a Yakima Rack and Roll Trailer.
I am planning to align two PVC pipes to support the hull.

questions
1. What diameter PVC (schedule 40) pipes would you recommend? I am leaning towards 4 inch, simply for the feasibility of fitting my hand and tools to tightening the bolts within the pipes.
2. What is an ideal length? I am guessing about 7 feet.
3. How did you guys attach them to the trailer/cross bars? I am thinking about using U-bolts. I have seen heavy duty zip ties as well as the web.

Your thoughts are appreciated.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:59 pm 
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Mine are 4", prob about 4 ft long. I drilled oversized holes in top of pipe so I could get socket through, used SS bolts, nuts and washers.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:02 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:29 am
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I have a set of 4" pipes on a post WWll 1/4 ton Bantam trailer that are about 7' long, since the "U" bolts are close to the end I was able to get my hand inside and tighten the nuts.
I have a set of 4" pipes on a Coleman tent trailer that has a set of racks on the top, the pipes are 10' long and the racks are too far from the end of the pipes so that I could not get my hand inside to tighten the U bolt nuts so I had to drill 3/4" holes in the top of the pipe above the U bolts to install and tighten the U bolt nuts. The 10' length pipes I was worried about them sagging too much in the middle but they work great.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:18 am
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Location: New Smyrna Beach, FL
Frank,
Here are some pictures of the PVC bunks on my Rack and Roll. Some of the cuts look a bit crude as I had planned adhering outdoor turf to the PVC. I used 3" PVC and attached with 1.5"SS u-bolts. The overhang of the PVC past the crossbar provides for good flexion when loading and unloading which reduces the chance of pressure points. The downside of the overhang is that you can't stand the trailer on end (as it was designed to do). Note that all edges were smoothed with a dremmel and the felt polishing attachment.
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_________________
Mike


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:55 pm
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Thank you to all.
I will be attempting my version of the PVC rigging. I purchased 3 inch sched 40 PVCs. 10 ft long and i plan on cutting them down to about 7 feet. I purchased end caps (4) and will be protecting the ends with them. I plan on using 1.25 inch U-shape fasteners and drop the bolts with washers (total 8) from within the pipes. I will see if my 9 y.o.'s skinny arms will reach the holes. if not, I will probably rig them at the end of a thin rod and drop them and try to tightened them from the bottom.
Will see how they work out.
thank you again for all the constructive recommendations

Frank


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 6:53 am 
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kimf70 wrote:
I purchased 3 inch sched 40 PVCs. 10 ft long and i plan on cutting them down to about 7 feet. I purchased end caps (4) and will be protecting the ends with them

Frank


The caps were a real problem for me. Thankfully I didn't glue them and only dry fitted them. When pulling the PA off the caps would catch the scupper holes badly and stop the kayak or pop the unglued caps off. I ended up filing the bare ends round like most have done and it works well.


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