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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 6:08 pm 
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Alright guys, hoping someone here has the harbor freight folding trailer all figured out....desired rig is easy to put together and break down and for a single pro angler....freshwater only.

1. I will have to wire it, correct?
2. Does the trailer tongue need to be extended, I read some posts on one forum that said it would need to be but not sure?
3. I want to load a single pro angler on the trailer as simply as possible after unfolding, 2 yak setup is not needed or desired. I will have to fold/unfold the trailer every outing - so I'm thinking I would just need a simple way to attach two 3 inch ( :?: ) PVC pipes spaced 10 inches apart from center of pipe ( :?: ). Obviously the pipes won't fold so these need to come on and off very easily.
4. No trailer winch needed, right?
5. Any locking straps you guys prefer in the event I was traveling and parked the trailer and yak outside overnight at a hotel or left in the parking lot of bass pro etc? I guess this is a silly question, take a bicycle cable and toss it around the handle and trailer....something that doubles to tie down and secure might be nice if it's not too pricey though.
6. One for sure silly question, but I don't like the red, anyone paint theirs - I'm thinking just it to a body shop and get them to zap it before assembling for a reasonable price?
7. What am I missing?

Now, while I don't want any sort of raised platform etc. Certainly any quick and easy mods to throw on a gear toolbox, rod hodler tubes etc. so long as they are snap on snap off so to speak are very welcomed! I suppose I'm into bungy cord territory now so I'll zip it in hopes you guys have the lowdown.

Thanks in advance for any tips, ordering the PA this week! :D


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 6:47 pm 
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Location: Orlando to Miami
[youtube]Boat Video: http://youtu.be/L8LieYog4F0[/youtube]

Here is a link to my PA14 and trailer.

I can email you pics of just my trailer if needed. Its not folding. But might give you ideas.

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2012 PA 14.
Love to fish, scuba, spearfish, and lobster.
Orlando to Miami.
Walter


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 5:56 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
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Location: sarasota,fl
proanglertobe:

The video that flfishnkayak posted pretty much covers everything you need. I also have a Harbor freight 4x4 trailer that I bought for $140 bucks (on sale) that I keep my TI on.
Here are a few pics of my setup, not sure if you will be able to use any of it though since they are different types of boats (my TI is 20 ft long)
Here is the boat and trailer mounted on the car ready to go.
Image

Here is the back of the Harbor Freight trailer
Image

Here is the front of the trailer
Image

Here is the whole trailer
Image

I've been using my trailer in salt water only for about a yr and a half now every weekend, and the regular steel rusts like you simply cannot imagine. I have never put the trailer into the water (don't think I ever will). I ended up once everything was completed getting some truck bed black spray paint that seems to hold up much better that the factory red paint. I replaced as many of the bolts as I could with stainless bolts and nuts that I got at Lowes (about $20 bucks worth).
My trailer is a two piece trailer that doubles as a launch cart, the front half of the trailer is held on by two clevis pins so if I have to walk the boat across the beach and down to the water I just remove the clevis pins, leaving the front half by the car, then walking the boat strapped down to the back half of the trailer (with the boat slid back onto the balance point of the trailer) then walk the boat down to the water and launch, I just leave the trailer (launch cart) by the beach until I'm done. The front half breaks down and fits into my SUV. We don't have a garage at our Key West house so I break the trailer down and place it in the fenced in compound between our houses along side the pool area next to the TI. I just tilt the trailer upright and carry it thru the gate into the compound then store it against the wall.
It actually works out ok (way better than trying to store the TI on the roof of my SUV for a month at a time, then going out every day). I doubt you will need any of those capabilities.
My original plan was to use the steel frame as long as it lasts, then replace with aluminum as it rusts out. All in all I think I have about a hundred bucks worth of aluminum on there now that I bought at Lowes, if your serious I'm sure you can get the aluminum much cheaper at a metal supply place.
Wiring is very simple and straight forward, you will have to do that no matter what trailer you buy or make.
Pretty much any trailer you buy mail order comes dis-assembled in boxes and must be bolted together and wired. It took me one afternoon do put it all together and get wired up (it's not hard and you don't need any special tools typically).
The 1/2" PVC tubing on 11 inch centers is what the boat rests on, I later replaced that with 1 1/2" pvc tubing, about 3 ft longer to provide better support for the hull. I also added a paint roller built onto L brackets at the back of the trailer to make it easier to roll the boat onto the trailer (paint rollers work nice because they are cheap, and are actually very strong and spin easily on 1 1/2 PVC), If you price out real boat rollers you will realize they are not cheap (my paint roller thingy was about $5 bucks to make).

Warning: With my trailer, the boat itself is part of the structure of the trailer, connecting the front half to the back half because it's a two part combination 'trailer/loading cart' , I'm not recommending you do the same.

If it were me I would just follow what flfishnkayak did, but before using the trailer the first time (after all wiring is done) give the whole works a coat of truck bed liner black spray paint (available at Walmart for about $5 bucks),one or two cans should do it. I also covered any exposed bolts and nuts sticking out the top with roofing rubber (from a caulk gun) to prevent ever scratching the boat (before painting), basically you just ooze it on then cover with 3M masking tape to smooth it out, once setup just remove the masking tape. Another thing I did was bury the leaf spring joints in the same roofing rubber so they don't rattle on the road (takes a couple days to dry), I just jacked the trailer up a little, then filled the open area between the leaf spring and the shackles with the roofing rubber and let it dry a couple days, makes a huge difference on how noisy the trailer is.

I'm not sure it's worth paying a lot more for the bigger tires, I like my trailer very low (easier to load), and if I remember the larger tires were pretty expensive, ( the trailer came with the smaller tires for free). If I ever wear these out I will likely replace with the larger ones, but if the trailer comes with the smaller ones, I wouldn't worry about it too much (why throw away good tires).
Good Luck, hope some of this helps
Bob


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 8:11 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:47 am
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Location: Florida's Treasure Coast.
I bought, assembled and sold the 3'x4' Harbor Freight trailer with 12" tires a year or two ago. I would recommend the 12" tires/rims for highway use.

Simple build (1 person, 3 hours)...I replaced the stock lighting with a HF LED trailer lighting kit, removed 2 of 3 leaf springs on each side (soften the ride).

I ended up selling before using it because I found a kayak specific trailer at a great price....so a buddy now uses it to transport his 4-wheeler.

I had planned to lengthen the tongue (9' from center), build/add a Uni-Strut frame that would sit just higher than the fenders, shoot the entire rig with Rustoleum Bedliner spray then add the specific mounts to carry a PA12 & Revo 11.

If I were in your situation, i would do the above listed plus-

1. Replace the tongue with a 2-piece unit; galvanized steel sleeve that runs the full length of trailer frame and a smaller diameter square tube (8-9') that fits inside the sleeve (approx 2'). This will be a removable unit that can be secured with a locking draw-bar pin.

2. Forget the PVC pipe (as your not storing PA on trailer, just transporting from point-A to point-B), make two crossbars (cut to width of trailer) from 2"x4" pressure treated (PT) wood & wrap in marine-grade carpet and bolt to Uni-Strut framework....No need to remove each time for storage. Simple to slide Boat on/off trailer.

3. Add a section of 2x4 PT to the rear of trailer (bumper) this will help when leaning trailer frame against wall when storing (eliminate sliding & protects trailer frame) after tongue is removed.
When leaning against a wall, the carpeted bunks will be touching the wall & the wood will be touching the floor, causing zero damage to trailer or garage. :D

For trailer build ideas, the guys on the TexasKayakFisherman forum are the wizards-
http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com/foru ... p?t=121567

BTW- when traveling, you can use a heavy- duty cable to secure boat to trailer....run thru Mirage-Drive well and run through the trailer frame and secure with a quality lock.
Make sure tongue is locked to trailer, trailer coupler is locked and hitch draw-bar is locked to truck.

Hope this helps, Good Luck.......

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 9:15 am 
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Location: Orlando to Miami
Those are some great tips "fusioneng". Love the two part trailer idea.

Http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=121567

This texas site has lots of ideas.

_________________
2012 PA 14.
Love to fish, scuba, spearfish, and lobster.
Orlando to Miami.
Walter


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 3:02 pm 
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Hey all, thanks for the recommendations - I'm a little unclear (or maybe I wasn't clear in my original post) but are you guys suggesting I NOT buy the folding trailer, but buy the 3x4 trailer and just build it out in a manner where I can fold it? I actually park in underground / garage parking that is too tight to make the turn on entry with any trailer attached. So I need an option I can unhitch, yank the yak off of and wheel in to it's storage location, then fold the trailer and wheel it in upright on it's casters....so I was thinking of this trailer.... http://www.harborfreight.com/950-lb-cap ... 42709.html

It's the 4x8 folding 950lb one....I guess the biggest question is a QUICK way to install PVC or boards for the yak, the other stuff I think I've figured out....

It comes with the wiring and lights just have to install when I assemble the trailer.
To paint it, it's comes OEM wtih a gloss paint, so that would need to be scuffed up before painting, I can do with this a heavy duty industrial like scotch brite pad - or an electric buffer with such a pad, and spray paint it.
I don't believe I'd need to extend the tongue on this one, it would make backing up easier with a long one, but not a must do for me.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 3:03 pm 
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Registered for the TX forum last night - saw they had a lot of posts on trailers just haven't been approved to post quite yet.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 2:05 pm 
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I built a trailer for PA14, using the $150 HF 4x4 kit, with 8" wheels. Love it. I think I posted here (lookup my posts) and/or in stripersonline (same nick of r11).

Assuming you follow my design, you will be able to remove the telescoping tongue rail and prop up the trailer on its butt. - for a 4x1 footprint. Also, with tongue removed, she is something like 4x5 footprint with wheels on the ground, very light and you should be able to maneuver er in pretty tight spots.

If still tight, you can attach 18" pieces of steel/2x4 to the butt and attach 4 casters to that. Won't win any design contests, but might work for you.

The telescoping extension, when removed, can act as support so that trailer stays upright on its butt. I have pix in my posts.

Good luck.

PS - even those that ain't got no space @ home to store the thing, consider renting trailer spots @ self-storage places. About $70/month and if you can get one close to the spot you fish, you can make your commute easier ... I don't like towing my yak in heavy traffic none too much.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:23 pm 
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I have the next size up HF folding trailer, I think 1195 lb capacity. I keep the PA on it (on PVC rails) in my garage all season, and only take it apart and fold it at the end of the season. The rails are screwed to 2x4 cross pieces that have 2x4 tongues attached that fit into the siderail pockets at the front and rear of the trailer. Easy on-off for the rails. But IMHO, having to unfold and refold the trailer for each trip will be a real problem. The folding itself can be done single-handed, but then you need to insert and tighten some bolts near the folding hinge that lock it in the open position and provide stiffness. These bolts are in very tight locations and it is not a trivial task. I am glad I only have to do it twice a year! Doing it each outing will seriously cut into water time.
I used a hitch extender on my truck instead of modifying the trailer tongue (see http://www.harborfreight.com/12-hitch-e ... 69882.html). The only trouble I have with this setup is backing the empty trailer down the launch at the end of the day - the trailer is too low to see out my back window and too close to see out my side mirrors until it is already jack-knifing. So I put a Scotty mount dead-center on the back end of the trailer, and at the end of the day I pull my VisiCarbon flag off the PA and plug it into the back of the trailer. Then I can easily navigate the empty trailer in reverse with just a 12" hitch extender by watching the flag in the rear-view mirror.
Depending on where you are trailering, consider moving up to the 12" wheels. I personally would not trust the 8" wheels at highway speeds.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:18 pm 
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"insert and tighten some bolts near the folding hinge that lock it in the open position and provide stiffness" these are around the axle? good info and sounds like something I should consider if it's problematic or time consuming....any idea how long it take you to put these in and take them out respectively? 5 mins per bolt to get in and 5 to get out or more of a pain than that?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:06 pm 
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proanglertobe wrote:
any idea how long it take you to put these in and take them out respectively? 5 mins per bolt to get in and 5 to get out or more of a pain than that?

Probably 10 min total for the 2 bolts, in or out, for a total of 20 min per trip just to do the bolts. The problem is that these carriage bolts fit upward through overlapping square holes in the folded trailer. There is always some play in the frame, so on my rig at least, the holes never quite line up correctly and require some finessing with a screwdriver in order to insert the bolt properly. Then, when you can get the bolt in properly, the thread sticks up on the inside of the "C" framing quite close to the inner side of the rail, and there is not sufficient clearance to get a socket wrench onto the nut. So, you end up using a box wrench and making 1/6 turns while holding the rounded end of the carriage bolt upward in the square hole. Remove wrench, flip over, repeat about 30 times. Not hard, just maddeningly slow. Add to that the time (another 10 min each) for folding and securing the bed and the tongue and rolling the folded trailer into the garage or wherever. I would not be surprised if these maneuvers cost you a total of 45-60 min of water time per trip. If you mount a spare tire on the tongue, that will make folding the tongue more difficult due to the added weight and may also need to be adjusted or tightened down periodically.
If you have a HF near you they will probably have one of these trailers setup and it would be worth looking at the folding mechanism so you know what is involved.
I have a Dodge pickup and used a bed extender for a couple years before getting the trailer. If I had to unfold / refold the trailer for each trip, I would just keep using the bed extender instead of the trailer.
Just my $0.02.
Good luck.


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