cradle trailer

Can anyone tell me how well the cradle trailers work for slide on/off vs. float on/off ? Most of my transporting is done in the bed of my pick-up , but storage on a bunk trailer. Just want to protect my investment as best possible. But good slide on/off is a must. What are your thoughts? Thanks

For my AIs I went away from the cradles because I did not like the way they slid on/off. Switched to the PVC bunks with a roller at the end and couldn't be happier!

I have the PVC on my trailer that I haul/store 2 PAs on. Have yet to put the trailer in the water and just slide the PAs off/on the trailer at the ramp. As "vabeach2" stated, the PVC works fine for slide on and off.

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Steve Stubbs
USAF (retired)

SeaDek Fishing Team
Unfair Lures Pro Staff
Ziptailz Ambassador

2015 Pro Angler 14 - Papaya
2018 Compass - Sea Grass

Yep, that about covers it!

These photos show how I approached the "slide off/back on" my Trailex trailer....I used 11 degree couplers on the 2.9"/3" OD schedule 40 PVC pipes. I also installed a winch to help pull my PA-14 back on to the trailer when the ramp angle is too steep.
I also used 1/4 x 20 SS bolts, fender washers and nylock nuts to secure the PVC to the cross bars...the back cross bar at the end is 1" thick x 4" wide fir that is cover with indoor/outdoor carpeting...it's very strong and I have not, to date, ever dipped the end into the water nor submerged the axle assembly.
As a "older fisherman", I find this set up allows me to be completely independent when launching and recovering my PA

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

Nice touch on the tail lights. Very good idea to get the lights out to the end of the yak... more then 4 feet past the light in Texas and you will get a ticket.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks....I never like the low placement of the lights Trailex uses......a simple 18", trailer lights wiring extension plug and a 2 x 2 with u-bolts does the trick.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

Thats a nice rig, clearly it is well thought out. While I'll be starting with a different style trailer , no doubt be able to gets some ideas from your pics. I seems to be unanimous , no cradle , PVC . I saw a you tube that the guy elongated the holes in the PVC so they would flex under the weight of the hull. I wonder if its necessary or overkill ? It complicates the build . Guess I'm back at the drawing table.

cmoan....I drilled 1/2" holes for the SS 1/4 x 20 bolts in the PVC and 5/16" holes on the cross bars....used a fender washer under the bolt head and nuts...make sure you use Nylock nuts (nylon inset nuts that will not come loose) so you do not need to "torque them down"...this allows for some slop/sag in the PVC...and the PVC will sag to fit the hull shape quite nicely.
The cross bars can be 2 x 6's as mine are....part of the Trailex factory supports that are expensive and not adequate, as received for my original Outback and still lacking for the PA...so, I used them as "crossbars" to mount the PVC, since it was convenient.
Good luck...it's not difficult to put together as you have several ideas from which to pick....."Steal shamelessly" is my motto since no one has a lock on the best ideas!

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

Thanks Dr. and to all who replied. Those cradles are quite a bit of money for something that your not that happy with. Really glad I asked as I'm a newbie to "posting".

On that note-

I was able to turn my rear cradle into a great cart- much easier than the scupper one to get under. Utilizes both wheeleez and hard tires. Highly recommend it.

On the AI Forums, they call it the "Applecart". Essentially a DIY dolly cart. With cheap tires its fairly inexpensive to make if you already have the cradles.