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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 3:43 pm
Posts: 2
Hi All,

I have a PA12 that I've been using on my Mazda 3 Hatchback with a Yakima boatloader and it has been doing pretty well. The major problem right now is the pads/saddles for the kayak. I have the Evenkeel saddles and they are awful for hauling the PA12. First, they block the boat when I'm sliding it on. Sometimes they flip around and dent the top of my car. Then other times, they come off completely. Now, the back left one is completely broken off and gives little support anymore. The second problem is that they slide very easily. I have them cranked on as hard as they go. During a long trip the kayak is usually really close or touching the rack poles. It also makes it very difficult and annoying to load the boat on, because I have to keep lifting up the boat and sliding the saddles back underneath as I position in place.

In summary, what is the best saddle/pad for car topping the PA12? I'm thinking of either getting a set of round foam covers for the cross poles or figuring out a way to use the formed Hobie cradle set to mount on top.

Thanks,
Ian


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 9:11 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 247
Location: Ogden, Utah
I have a PA14 and a Toyota Highlander. Here's my load/carry rig. I made up a guide and support board to keep the bow from sliding sideways off the car's spoiler. Then there are a pair of Hully rollers bolted to the rear Thule bar. They guide and support the keel as I push the boat up.

Image


On the front bar, I made up a wooden block to fit inside the drive well. I simply slide the boat forward and lower it onto this block. Once there, the boat can't shift in any direction.

Image

I use two ratcheting straps that run inside the handle rails and under both the car rails and the Thule bars, plus two tiedowns to the front bumper. My Prangler isn't going anywhere unless I roll the whole rig.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 3:43 pm
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Hmm, not bad. The problem with mine is that the rack is quite a bit further forward. I'd have to slide it pretty far on the spoiler. I used to do that with a old aluminum 12' jon boat, but it tore through the heavy rubber mat I was using to protect the car and now there is a bunch of scratches. I might be able to save one pair of Evenkeel pads and go with Hully Rollers. What did you do with the wooden protection board? Does it have carpet or rubber or something underneath? It's smart to bolt them on. I don't think that is an option with my current saddles though. The clamps that come with these saddles are worthless.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:19 am
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I did a write up on this very thing, except for an Outback. I finally found the glide and set product from Thule that works pretty good.

http://terrywilliamsoutdoors.com/2014/06/09/the-load/

Hope it helps. After car-topping for a season I finally gave in and got a small trailer. Probably the best investment I have made it making the overall experience smoother. I understand that it isn't an option for everybody.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:35 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:35 am
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Location: Ogden, Utah
Murp, so far I have the bottom of the protection board plain. It hasn't caused any scratches on the spoiler because it doesn't move much, even when I'm sliding the boat up or down. I have the option of padding it a bit, but I've found that carpet picks up so much sand and grit that it causes more damage than plain smooth wood. I remove it for travel - you might be able to see the two "hooks" at the front end of the metal straps.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:12 pm
Posts: 124
I have Yakima bars and saddles on my kayak trailer and Thule cross bars and saddles on my truck. I much prefer the Thule. For the roof rack the rear saddles have a felt surface so the kayak slides across them with ease. In the front I have ones that have a ribbed rubber surface that flexes to conform to the shape of the boat. With this setup I can lift the boat and slide it forward and then drop it down on the front saddles. Thule also use to sell the best ratchet straps which have been discontinued. I buy a used set whenever I see them for sale on ebay.

If you have the clearance with the Yakima cross bars I would tape on foam padding and transport the PA hull side up. Less worry about deforming the hull this way and no worries about the mounts shifting as it does not matter if the foam rotates around the cross bars so long as you strap the boat down and use bow and stern tie-down straps.


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