The Hobie 18 probably will take a little longer to rig than a Hobie 16 even with quick release
because there are a couple of rigging steps the 16 does not have i.e. the zipper luff and the main sail ring, loose footed sail, and the method of tightnening the rig. That said here is what I would do make rigging go quicker.
Matt Miller is correct, wire securing by feeding through the lacing or pulling forward to the mast crutch will save time over trying to coil and secure the standing rigging.
Once you step the mast, I would have two quick pins
, one on each bridle instead of the one at the roller furling device. This is always a three handed job and having the crew or the on the spot helper find your prefered hole is difficult at best. Quick pins
here on the standing rigging is ok because the pins
would have to fall up to fall out. I have the ball type pins
on my Hobie 20 and they work great. Dont forget to remove the step pin.
Hoisting the main, you can drill out the twist shackle here and use another push pin/ball pin here. A good luff rope guide can save you time feeding in the sail. If you ever have to replace the bolt rope on your main, have the sailmaker use teflon tape. It makes a world of difference.
Now that the main is up, quick
pin the gooseneck on the boom through the vertical pin on the mast. Again, no problem because the pin would have to fall up. Do not use the pin on the horizontal as it may interfere with the gooseneck joint. Use a quick
bell shackle to attach the clew to the boom. Leave this on the sail when you de-rig. This saves you feeding the shackle through the sail. Quick release
the mainsheet to the traveler. Use a snap shackle here. The snap shackle will stay attached to the mainsheet with either a standard pin or a bolt with a nylock nut.
Hook up the downhaul with either a quick
shackle or a pair of hooks like the Hobie Tiger's use. I don't know what downhaul system you use so you will have to make a choice here.
Pull the mainsheet to the side an tighten your rig. Sorry, the shrould pin will have to be a standard pin with split rings. Alway use covers (boots) here to keep fingers and toes away from hardware and to keep the rings and pins
from accidently being pulled out. Rigging tape on the lowest pin and ring is not a bad idea. Use the same rigging tape to protect your sail at the speader ends of your diamond wires.
pin the bell shackle to the tack of the jib. If you can not pass the pin through the hole after the rig is tight, you have the fixed pin in the wrong hole. This is another reason to quick
pin the bridle wires and not the forestay. Your assistant can't put the pin in the wrong hole.
Make sure the roller has all the line on it before you hoist the jib. Once you feed the jib halyard through the zipper luff, tie the tail end of the halyard to the zipper car. Hoist the sail fully and use the tail end of the halyard to zip the now fully hoisted sail. This is quicker than the pull zip pull zip that most people use. Secure the luff tension and hook the jib sheets to the clew with whatever quick
device you pick here. Make sure this device is not prone to hooking on to the diamond wires or shock cord, or the downhaul. I would use a standard shackle here to avoid this on the water snafu.
pin the tiller extention to the crossbar and snap on the boards' shock cords on and you are ready to go.
I hope some of this helps.
PS- There is snow in our local mountains today. I am taking the kids up to go for snow play. In San Diego, we drive an hour to find snow. Then we come home to go sailing in the fridged 70 degree winter weather. This is really getting tough. I had to put on a windbreaker the other day while sailing.