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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 7:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:12 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
Hi I want to install some anchor plates on my 1980 h18. Do I need to reinforce the inside of the hull with resin and fiberglass? It seems prety difficult to work in there! Or as it is a old model is it strong enough?

Any online manuals or can someone guide me¿?
Have seen some pics at beachcats...

I would just drill the holes put some silicone and screw the anchor plates in place would this be ok?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:45 am
Posts: 759
Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Splash,

Hopefully Mike (#7877) or Matt will chime in but I'm thinking you've got a hellastout year boat. Seems as though '83 thru '88 we're "potential" problem years. I have plates, at the shrouds, on my '89 hulls. From what I understand, on newer models no real need for plates at fore and aft cross beams, and I think "your in the same boat" with early models.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 10:13 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 9:35 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Northern Texas
Splash,

I have an 81 and 82. I installed the anchor plates on the 81 at the anchor pin locations. I have not installed them at the front or rear crossbars. The 81 model that I have is already pretty thick at the anchor pins, but I installed them for piece of mind. I had planned on installing plates on the front and rear crossbars, but it has now become a retired racing boat.

The 82 already had the plates at the anchor pins, but not on the crossbars. If I decide to run a spin, I will install the plates at the front crossbar on the inside and outside connections.

I wouldn't think that you need to add the fiberglass patch to an 80 model. I would recommend using epoxy instead of silicone on the drilled holes. Silicone has a tendency to come loose over the years. Epoxy lasts a lot longer.

By the way, just something to think about...

I have never seen a hull fail at the crossbars. All the hulls I have seen that have failed have been forward of the crossbars (about 2-3 inches). I have not researched this, but I believe that hull failures are a result of the combination of improper trailering and reduction of cross sectional area on the hull itself. Thin out the fiberglass foam sandwich, place this on a hard rubber roller. FFS+HRR= stress cracks on the bottom of the hull. Now add the forces of the standing rigging: SCOBOTH+FOTSR=broken hull.

Hope this helps!


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 Post subject: Shroud anchor plates
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 10:14 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 15036
Location: Oceanside, California
Shroud anchor plates are recommended for all older Hobie 18s. They became standard to help distribute the shroud loads to the hull sidewall.

Installation is simple, as you described. No glass work is required for this one. Undo the existing anchor. Slip in the new plate and re-install the anchor pin. Drill the holes for the through bolts using the plate as a guide. Install the bolts, nuts and washers after applying silicone sealant to the bolt holes.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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