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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 2:38 pm 
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I found this product on the MAS Epoxies website.

http://www.masepoxies.com/products/detail-777755-Flex-Mold-Non-Skid-Repair-System

It seemed like an interesting idea, so I emailed them and they sent me a sample swatch that seems to fit the Hobie non-skid well (it's pattern 327 male). I haven't had any need to try it yet, but for anyone that has to do a non-skid repair, this looks like it could work well.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:00 am 
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Someone one slipped last weekend when climbing back onto my boat and thier trap hook popped a small hole in my non-skid. I saw in one of the old hotlines a how to repair non-skid article but I cannor remember which one it was? I think it said you could make a mold with silicone from your non-skid then use it to repair. Anyone remeber which hotline it was?

Did your sample arrive srm?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:17 am 
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Yes, I got the sample. Pattern 327 Male seems to be the right pattern as it "locked" into the existing non-skid. The sample they sent me was about 1.5" x 3", so if the repair is small, one of their free samples may be all you need. Othewise you would have to order the full size sheet. Probably still better than making your own mold.

One thing to keep in mind, I tested the fit of the pattern on my Hobie 18 nonskid which is the same pattern as the 14, 16, 17. I don't know if the Tiger uses the same pattern since it was designed by Hobie Europe.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:54 am 
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The sample size would be big enough but your right about the Tiger possibly having a different pattern. I think making a mould would be pretty simple I looked at Hobby Lobby but I could not find the stuff for making the copy of my non-skid only stuff to make a mould but its kinda like plaster. The existing non-skid is my mould I figure coat it with wax or pledge then pour some kind of vinyl or rubber down let it cure and presto I have a exact match. The question is what material would copy the pattern be flexible and not stick?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:22 am 
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You can take a picture of the nonskid and send it to MAS (there are instructions for doing this on their site). They will review their inventory and send you a sample of what they belive is the closest match. It's free and only takes a couple days. I would do that before trying to make my own mold. It will save you some hassle if you can use a pre-existing mold.

Otherwise, the Hotline articles are from the Nov/Dec 2008 and Jan/Feb 2009 issues.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:25 am 
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Thanks man! I will post up my repair when I am finished.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 8:33 pm 
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According to the MAS site, they want you to wax the hull before sanding it. I'm obviously missing something. Cany anyone tell me why you would wax the hull before sanding? Seems like you'd just take the wax off again.

I've been wanting to freshen the gel on the decks of my old 14 but, at least in my mind, getting the non-skid right has been a concern. One question always seems to lead to another, so here's the next one: my old boat was painted at one point, and I'd like to sand a lot of the old gel and paint off so that I don't make my boat a lot heavier by putting new gel on top of old. Any thoughts on how much of the old gel to sand off and how to sand evenly so I don't have hills and valleys in the gel? Currently, my hulls are white with blue decks. I plan to respray the decks with yellow gel, replicating my favorite legacy hull/deck color combination. Does changing colors set off anyone's alarm bells?

Any ideas on stripping paint other than sanding? I suppose I'll have to sand anyway to scuff the surface up for the gel.

I'm anxious to hear how this 327 pattern turns out.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:57 am 
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MVD wrote:
According to the MAS site, they want you to wax the hull before sanding it. I'm obviously missing something. Cany anyone tell me why you would wax the hull before sanding? Seems like you'd just take the wax off again.


You wax the damaged area as well as the surrounding areas. Then you grind out only the damaged gelcoat. The area that you ground out no longer has wax on it, so the new gelcoat will stick to that area. The surrounding areas that were not ground out still have wax on them, so the new gelcoat will not stick to those areas. When the gelcoat is cured, it will only be adheared to the repair area and any excess gelcoat will flake off of the waxed surfaces so you only end up with the new gelcoat adhearing only to the damaged area.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:16 am 
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I sent them an email with photo last week and have not heard back form them. Called them they are sending 2 swatch's out.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 4:46 pm 
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SRM,

That's awsome! What an idea.

Thanks,

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 4:36 pm 
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Fa1321tx wrote:
Someone one slipped last weekend when climbing back onto my boat and thier trap hook popped a small hole in my non-skid. I saw in one of the old hotlines a how to repair non-skid article but I cannor remember which one it was? I think it said you could make a mold with silicone from your non-skid then use it to repair. Anyone remeber which hotline it was?

Did your sample arrive srm?


I did that back in the '80s when I had a dealership and worked on them. Clean an area of nonskid that looks close to what you want to match really good with a toothbrush. I used dishwashing detergent as a release agent-pva didn't work too good. Paint on a thin film on an area larger than you want make the mold from, so it will be easy to clean up and none will stick to the hull anywhere there is no release agent. Let the thin film of dish detergent dry overnight.

Once the dish detergent is dry, swath on a thick coating of silicone sealant over what you want the mold from. Start in the middle of the area to be covered, and go outward so there are no air bubbles. It needs to be about 1/4" to 1/2" thick- so you don't get bumps in the repaired area, and takes several days to dry. Obviously, this is an inside job. Put saran wrap over the silicone so you can press it down some to make sure there is good contact. Peel the saran wrap, without disturbing most of the silicone, off so it can dry.

Once it's dry good, you can peel of the silicone mold. Rinse off the dish detergent from the mold. Let dry. Spray with PVA, put gelcoat where the non-skid needs to be repaired, and lay on the mold, being careful to mate the little indentions. Squeeze any excess gelcoat out from under the mold, and worry over the edges the best you can.

One of the Hobie reps came by my shop after I had peeled off the mold, and couldn't believe it. A good mold can be reused many times. I had to make several before I every got the first one right, but I used it for several years.

A commercial product wasn't available then, but if it was, I would have tried that first.

For sanding large areas, nothing beats Durablocks used in auto body work. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Bran ... toview=sku The longer the better for the area to sand. Summitt sells rolls of sandpaper, including wet-or-dry, that sticks to the Durablocks.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 6:57 am 
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Thanks Tom. Im waiting for the swatch to arrive first. In the mean time I am sailing in a short distance race this Saturday what would be something to seal the hole with for quick fix until the non-skid can be repaired properly?
The hole in the non-skid is about the size of a pea and one 1/8 of that goes thru the glass.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:51 am 
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Fa1321tx wrote:
Thanks Tom. Im waiting for the swatch to arrive first. In the mean time I am sailing in a short distance race this Saturday what would be something to seal the hole with for quick fix until the non-skid can be repaired properly?
The hole in the non-skid is about the size of a pea and one 1/8 of that goes thru the glass.
Duct tape. Seriously.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 5:53 am 
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10-4 on the Duct tape patch.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 6:15 am 
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If you use duct tape as a temporary repair, make sure you dry out the damaged area really well before doing the actual repair. Duct tape will be far from 100% waterproof and if the glass is cracked, that means moisture into the foam. Use a lamp and a fan to draw out the moisture from the damage. As an alternate "quickie" repair, you might consider sealing the damage with superglue.

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