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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 1:54 pm 
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Location: Satellite Beach, FL
I've had the idea for a while to try to make a cheap adjustable trap system using "spliced" lines. When I came across this today on SA, I started thinking again.

Sailing Anarchy: It's the end of the clutch as we know it?

Has anyone ever done something like this for a trap setup? I'll have to give it a try sometime.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 1:56 pm 
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Location: Satellite Beach, FL
Ronstan Constrictor Textile Rope Clutch

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 6:06 pm 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
Dogbones are the cheapest, easiest adjustable trap setup you can do. Just a low and a high setting.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 6:42 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
Karl's right - on my 14, I use a dogbone. Low for flat water, bigger wind and higher for lumps and marginal trapezing conditions.

On the 16, I just use a single setting - and adjust accordingly for the day's conditions. KISS.

17 doesn't matter because the wings keep you above the waves all the time. I use the J&H handles (which BTW stands for Jeff and Hobie, Hobie Sr.'s sons) - they're easy to grab and hook on to.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 6:00 pm 
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
The problem I see applying that technology to an adjustable trap is that it wants a fairly long section of tensioned line, and when I raise my AT I go block to block. Now, one could shorten the trap wire to retain the required ten inches or so of line between blocks, but then your upper trap handle (if it's above the adjustment) gets too far away.

How do you see incorporating this clutch into an AT system? If you did away with the blocks maybe you could get enough space, but I sure don't want to lose the 3:1.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 1:05 pm 
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Location: Glen Lake, MI
Zach - I considered this as well, and went so far as to rig up a "whoopie-sling" style adjustable loop (Example: http://stick13.files.wordpress.com/2011 ... -sling.jpg) out of some 1/8th inch dyneema. Long story short, because it can't be bearing any weight when adjusting it, it really didn't work. Yes it's easy to adjust on the beach, or when drifting, but it was a poor substitute for an actively adjustable trapeze. And even then, I'm with Karl and Matt that with dogbones you have the two high and low settings that are the only ones you really need.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 2:12 pm 
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Yep, that whoopie sling from hammocks was my original thought. I would love to see pictures if you have any.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 9:15 pm 
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Location: Clinton Lake, KS
I went with this setup last year.. I love it. Really easy to adjust, and I really like the handle setup vs the "t" handle on the trap line.

I will say though I rarely adjust trap height during a race. It is more when I am playing around trying to go fast and flying solo, ect.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 9:18 pm 
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Location: Clinton Lake, KS
AntonLargiader wrote:
The problem I see applying that technology to an adjustable trap is that it wants a fairly long section of tensioned line, and when I raise my AT I go block to block. Now, one could shorten the trap wire to retain the required ten inches or so of line between blocks, but then your upper trap handle (if it's above the adjustment) gets too far away.



Check out the setups in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO0LkUDALNk

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 5:29 pm 
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Location: Lake of the Ozarks
standard issue cleat that's been popular on dinghies and skiffs for years
Image

I've probably got enough of them lying around for both sides of a double-trap boat

PM me

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