New Trailer Recomendations?

I'm looking to buy a new trailer for my Hobie 16. Does anybody have any recommendations other than Trailex? Nothing wrong with them as far as I know, but I'd like to find out what other options may be out there. Who else is making catamaran trailers anyways?

Thanks,

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Mark Van Doren
H16 Seabreeze #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T Fantasia #47787
San Juan 28

I have a Highlander brand and also a Dilly, they are both older trailers

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JKK
83 yellow/ white decks Hobie 14 Corando turbo
82 yellow hulls Hobie 16 Cat Fever
84 yellow hulls hobie 16 Yellow Nationals
plus a few extras that I'm restoring

when I bought my first Hobie 16 in 1979, I had the choice of a steel ($300) or aluminum ($525) trailer. I decided on the Trailex aluminum even though it cost more. Dramatic weight savings, NO corrosion or rust, and ease of use. Over the years I have added the extension upgrade to handle my Hobie 18, as well as new springs, bearings and tires. Over 35 years of use and no problems.

I don't know if there are other aluminum trailer builders. But I've gotten more than my money's worth out of mine.

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Chris
'88 H18SE Arís

We've had a few trailers over the years. I think Trailex is your only option really if you want to go with aluminum. Otherwise you're looking at a custom trailer. The Trailex's don't seem to be as rigid as compared to a steel frame trailer, but they certainly are a rather proven design. The light weight is a benefit especially if you tow with a 4-cyl car (which is why I got one).

For steel trailers, I would really give a close look to the construction before buying one. There are some cheap, low quality trailers out there. I would make sure the frame members are either fully boxed sections or real C-channel sections. Some trailers (like our old Highlander) have frame sections that are just flat steel sheet that's been bent into a C shape. This is not nearly as strong as a fully boxed or C-channel section. Our Performance trailer has a C-channel frame that seems to be bomb proof. I would also definitely go with a galvanized frame rather than painted.

Another really important area to look at is where the A-frame connects to the tongue. On one of our previous trailers, the crossmember where the tongue tied into the A-frame was undersized and the flexing and starting/stopping eventually caused the cross member to crack. Had I not reinforced the frame, the tongue would have eventually separated from the trailer. The longer the span between where the tongue intersects with the A-frame and where the tongue ties into the cross member, the better.

Last check the quality of the axle. Some of the cheaper axles are just a piece of plate bent to form a U. Or the spindles are only stitch welded to the ends of the axle. The best axles are round or rectangular tubes and the spindles are fully welded around the axle.

Trailers are one of those things that you never think about until they cause a problem, and when they do, it's usually a major inconvenience.

sm

I have a 2015 Tandem island how far apart should the cradle mounts be apart on center?

We say 67"... but the Tandem can be a wider spread because the cradles fit the hull over a wider range. Best to place under stiffer structures like the MirageDrive wells or cart scuppers.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

When I bought my new hobie the dealer in Des Moines IA was using galvanized trailers from a company in WI called Karavan and quite a few of us around here and friends in Denver have them and they have held up vey well over the last 10 years. Karavan doesn't show a cat trailer on their website probably due to low demand. You may want to contact the hobie dealer in Des Moines to see if he still gets trailers from Karavan based on his specs.

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2001 H18 w/SX wings & spinnaker #16740 (purchased new)
1989 H18 w/SX wings #14565 (purchased new, sold 2000)
Would buy another if Hobie would build it.

srm, since you've mentioned it, I'm curious if you found that trailer adequate for your boat? That's exactly the trailer I've got for my H18 (highlander trailer modified to fit an 18). Previous owner attached two crossbars with U-bolts, and put rollers on the ends. I swapped out the rollers for 2" x 8" x 8' carpeted bunks on either side (but left the side rollers on). It definitely makes me nervous on long trips, but that might just be because I've figured out a lot of what not to do when trailering by trial & error, so it always feels risky with the boat on the trailer (even though my boat lives on the trailer, lol).

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Mike

'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238

I still have the Highlander trailer, but I converted it into a utility trailer by removing the crossbars, putting on a shorter tongue, and adding a wood deck....

Anyway, I think our highlander is about 40 years old. Probably 15 or so years ago, one of the main fore/aft frame rails cracked back near where the center cross member is welded above the axle. It also cracked up forward where the A section bends to form the straight fore/aft section. I welded it up and reinforced it with some steel plate and angles and it has been fine since.

I've seen other trailer brands also crack back by the axle such that the rear of the trailer basically wanted to fall off.

I'm currently using a Trailex for my H18 and H17. So far, so good.

The Performance steel trailer I also mentioned seems to be pretty bomb proof. It really depends on the quality of the frame rails. Fully boxed frame rails or heavy C-channel is the way to go IMO.

sm

I'm a partner in a aluminum trailer manufacturing company and owner of an H16 and H14. I want to design a new trailer for my H16 and would love input from you trailer owners. I'm definitely putting LED lights and waterproof connections for the lights. I'm also going to use rubber torsion suspension. Springs are a maintenance item. EZ-lube spindles are also a must. I'm planning on 20.5 tires (fatter for traversing soft earth and sand). I was going to use rollers on the inside to guide the hulls as my current setup has rollers outside that mark up the hulls, but would consider carpeted bunks if you all feel this is a better route. I'd also like to come up with a way to better support the mast for travel. Mine currently rests on the rear crossbar with a rubber insulator to keep it from rubbing. Any other suggestions, ideas, photos would be greatly appreciated.

For a 14/16, bunks may be optional. For an 18, they really aren't. I too have rollers on the outsides, and my boat always seems to shift or slide when trailering to be pressed hard up against one or two of the rollers, and not at all on the others. It's left flat spots in the side of my hulls. That said, I do like the rollers for the ease of guiding the boat on and off the trailer (I trailer the boat often), and keeping it on the bunks while on the road. Maybe you can get some that aren't hard rubber? If it were me, I'd want some way to secure the boat forward - maybe a winch or forward strap - so it doesn't slide. I have over the hull straps, which I think are important to hold the boat down for long trips, but I've heard the straps oscillating in the wind really chafes/wears the gel coat. If you're going to have a winch forward, it may be worth making the mast stand tall enough that you can use it to solo step & winch the mast up. For the aft mast support, the best solution is a second mast stand that pins in place and can be removed when launching & retrieving (keeps the weight off the crossbar/rollers, allows you to keep your rudders on). I'd also want a catbox for the boom and sails (at a minimum), to speed up setup time. Anything to speed up setup time, really!

My trailer flexes a lot on the road, and the forward mast stand especially is very tall and likes to rock. Makes me nervous. The U-shaped sheet metal crossbars held in place by U-bolts also don't seem like the strongest way to support the weight of the boat. In all, I'd do whatever I could to stiffen up the trailer!

Keep the boat as low as is feasible. The lower it is, the sooner it is in the water when backing down a ramp.

One nice touch would be a light that can be fastened to the mast tip, It would have a tether and a plug to get power from the trailer. Could have tail and brake.

Provide a means for captive tie-down straps (like the Boatbuckle ones that Hobie sells) and a place for them to be hooked when the boat is gone. I LOVE having the straps right there already in position when it's time to tie down.

For me, floatation tires are not important. I'd rather have suspension that is sized for the relatively light load of the boat.

I use rollers but that's because I have them. Bunks would be fine also as long as the crossbars are low.

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'00 H16 #104691
'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages

I don't know how feasible that is, it sounds kinda complicated. On mine, I put reflective tape on the very tip of my mast ('79 H18 had a flat top to the mast) and then just tie a red flag around the last ~18" of the mast. I bought a road flag that is basically more of a mesh so it doesn't wave around a lot on the road and doesn't wear out. Seems like a pretty decent solution overall.

On my H18 trailer I put old tube socks on the guide rollers to keep the black marks off the hull if the boat slides to one side or the other. The dealer set my up my trailer with pivoting double rollers on all four points of contact.

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2001 H18 w/SX wings & spinnaker #16740 (purchased new)
1989 H18 w/SX wings #14565 (purchased new, sold 2000)
Would buy another if Hobie would build it.

Could I see a photo of this?